Weeping Rock, 5.7-5.11b, Zion National Park, Springdale, UT
Lat/Lon: 37.27389°N / 112.94333°W- Click for Satellite Image Weeping Wall is better known as a Zion tourist attraction, but Alex McAfee’s old guide book, “Zion Rock, The Finest Climbs of Zion National Park”, lists three routes as specific to “Weeping Rock Cragging”. Conrad Anker and Brad Quinn put up Ion Shadows, 5.11b R, what McAfee calls the “best route EVER”. To the right of Ion Shadows is the Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7, which McAfee also labels “one of the best in the canyon for its grade”. I tend to agree with the latter comment. The Zion Canyon tourist objective, “Weeping Wall”, is actually to the right of these three routes. When you turn the corner up canyon, you run into Cerberus Gendarme Wall which has a ton of routes. There are two significant arches that separate Cerberus Gendarme and Weeping Wall. To the right of these arches are the three routes that make up “Weeping Rock”. Access does not get any easier, just take the shuttle stop at Weeping Wall or park at the Weeping Wall parking lot if out of tourist season (best time to visit this crag). There are restrooms at this location.
The name "Zion" meaning "place of refuge," was given to the canyon by Mormon pioneers in 1919. The park is comprised of 229 square miles of protected wilderness and is home to Kolob Arch, the world’s largest. Continuous water "weeps" out of Weeping Wall resulting in a lush over hanging eco system. The weeping is from a slot canyon above known as Echo Canyon. Impermeable shale makes up the floor of Echo Canyon preventing the ground from absorbing the water and forces it to penetrate the wall, thus weeping through the rock.
Route Description(s) The Routes are Listed Left to Right
Face-tastic, 5.11/ 100’-
Ion Shadows, 5.11b R/ 100’-
Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7/ 185’- Weeping Rock Chimney is a delightful training corner/chimney. I took a fellow SPer on her first ever trad multi pitch up this route. The first pitch does not get much better, perfect crack to place gear on the left while slinging a tree to the right. Continue up a ramp that rides into the shaded chimney. As it steepens, you end up with two cracks on either side of the ramp. Place all the gear you want, switch to the right crack until you reach a webbing anchor on bolts on the right wall of the chimney. The is a very comfortable spot to bring up the second and set up your belay for the next pitch. The 2nd pitch is a classic chimney squeeze where you actually have to move out into space to find enough room to proceed upward in the chimney. It is quite dirty as most appear to climb the first pitch only. There are some loose blocks you want to avoid, but plenty of other features to utilize. Half way up is a rusted bolt/hanger on the left wall no doubt placed as most pro at that point is into large loose blocks. Continue playing the walls back and forth until you hit a rusty bolted station on the left wall. Again, this belay provides a super platform in which to bring up the 2nd. The whole chimney provides total and complete shade making for a very comfortable climb even on hot days. Rap the route.
Getting There Drive less than five miles, from the left hand turn over the bridge heading down Zion Canyon, to the Weeping Wall parking lot on the right hand side across from Angel’s Landing on the left. Walk out of the parking lot down to the road and continue up canyon, easily identifying the two stations for Ion Shadows with Weeping Rock Chimney to the right. There is no discernable trail, just head up one of two minor washes to the base of the routes.
Red Tape You do not need a climbing permit but you will have to pay a National Park fee to access the park. During tourist season, you will only be able to access the road by shuttle. I always purchase an annual pass to US and Canadian National Parks. If you are going to make more than 4 visits per year, I advise this option.
Zion National Park will have manned kiosks on Highway 9 and you will be required to pay a US National Park fee ($25 per vehicle for a day/week pass, $80 for an annual pass-2007) if you drive by them. Backcountry permits are required for all overnight trips in Zion National Park, including climbing bivouacs. Climbing bivouac reservations are available for Moonlight Buttress, Lunar Ecstasy, Prodigal Son, Spaceshot and Touchstone climbing areas. The permit fees are based on group size: 1-2 people: $10, 3-7 people: $15 and 8-12 people: $20. Reservations are available for many backcountry trips in the park. A reservation does not guarantee that you will receive a permit. Reasons that a permit will be denied include high water, flash flood warnings, and wildland fires. Depending upon the backcountry zone, 40%-60% of the total number of backcountry permits are available through reservations. The remainder of permits are available as walk-in permits.
Some rock formations and routes are closed to climbing from March 1 to mid-July each year to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Some areas that are routinely closed include the Great White Throne, Cable Mountain, Court of the Patriarchs, and the Streaked Wall.
My favorite place for dinner in Springdale is the outdoor patio at Oscars. It also appears to be the local’s favorite. Most of the staff is into climbing as well, so it is a great place to plan your next climbing day and maybe even pick up a partner. Ask for Zach. The Mean Bean across from Oscars is one of my favorite independent coffee houses period. Ask for Joe.
When to Climb Summer days are hot (95-110°F), but overnight lows are usually comfortable (65-70° F). Climbing in the middle of the day during the summer in southern Utah is not recommended. Carry plenty of water regardless. Afternoon thunderstorms are common from mid-July through mid-September. Storms may produce waterfalls as well as flash floods. Sandstone is weak when wet, so avoid climbing in damp areas or right after a rain. Winter in Zion Canyon is fairly mild. Winter storms can bring rain or light snow to Zion Canyon and much heavier snow in the higher elevations. Clear days may become quite warm, reaching 60°F; nights are often in the 20s and 30s. Zion roads are plowed, except the Kolob Terrace road, which is closed in winter.
Camping/Lodging There are two great campsites inside Zion’s south entrance. I have stayed at the South Campground just inside the gates. The scenic spots are on the North Fork of the Virgin River. This is a first come, first serve campground via self registration of $16 per night in 2005. This is a popular park however and I advise booking a site ahead of time at Watchman Campground if you think you are going during a popular period. Facilities include restrooms, drinking water, picnic tables, fire grates, RV dump stations. No showers are available at these park campsites but are available at an in town private facility for a fee. There is also a 6-site primitive campground called Lava Point, no water, no fee, and it is not open all year.
Springdale has tons of lodging options as well including a privately owned campground right before the entrance to Zion National Park. If you demand the luxuries of town, I recommend Majestic View Lodge. I have stayed here on several occasions and the rooms are first class with great views. There is also the privately run Zion Lodge which is in the heart of the park.
It is actually “illegal” in Zion to camp at the base of a climbing wall or in your vehicle.
Route Description for Weeping Rock Chimney Weeping Rock Chimney is a 60m chimney located on Weeping Rock wall to the far right of the Cerberus Gendarme Wall and before you make the turn into Weeping Wall itself. It is featured as a 5.7 two pitch route, more specifically referred to by Alex McAfee, author of “Zion Rock, the Finest Climbs of Zion National Park”, as “one of the best in the canyon for its grade”. Supposedly the route continues up the wall into 5.10 territory. Directly to the left is Ion Shadows, a classic 5.11b free route put up by Conrad Anker and Brad Quinn.
The first pitch of Weeping Rock Chimney is a pure trad climb with tons of placement opportunity making it a good training crag for up and coming trad leaders. The second pitch has one rusted bolt and, although not as aesthetic and therefore not climbed as often, is a fun continuation of Weeping Rock Chimney.
Drive or take the park shuttle to the Weeping Wall parking area in Zion Canyon. Walk up canyon via the road and the Weeping Rock Chimney will become obvious on the wall to the right. The chimney is obvious as well as the two stations to the left that belong to Ion Shadows. There is no trail up the hill, but one of two minor washes get you past the cacti to the base of the wall.
1st Pitch- (100’) 5.7/ The first pitch angles up right via a ramp. A perfect seam on the left allows plenty of placement that takes you past a tree on the right and then the ramp gives up two seams on either side as it ascends deeper into the chimney and to the webbing/bolt anchor on the right wall above a very comfortable belay station.
2nd Pitch- (85’) 5.6/ The second pitch is not climbed near as often as the first pitch. In fact the rap/belay station could use reinforcement or be replaced (two rusty hangers/bolts). The ascent is classic however and should not be missed. The ground is steeper than the first pitch as you basically stem up the deep chimney, moving out when it gets too narrow. Focus on either wall’s features versus the many loose blocks stuffing the interior of the
chimney. There is a seam or two on the left wall you can protect into and then it is a little run out until you reach a rusty bolt higher up on the left wall. Continue stemming until the walls widen too much to do so. Then move left and back right up precarious sandstone, again, looking to fully weight only the wall features you discover here and there. Protect into a seam to the left and move back right to finish the last part of the chimney below a rusted station on the left wall.
Descent Rap the route. The first rap is interesting in that you barely fit through the chimney on rappel and might have to readjust some of your gear to one side of your harness.
Essential Gear Double ropes might save you a rap but I would suspect they would have a good chance of getting stuck on the pull. I advise one 60m rope. You need several pieces of medium to large gear. The guidebook calls for a “free Zion rack” which includes two of each camelots .6 through 3 along with a 4 and one set of nuts. This will be more than adequate for this route, but is a good standard for your typical free climbing in Zion. Take half a dozen draws or more, several ought to be long to allow you to protect the chimney and move away on the 2nd pitch.
Notes: Sharing the spoils of victory with new people, why not? Fun day out with fellow Sp'er. The shade this chimney throws is golden this time of year. Did the Cave route again afterwards, which has got to be one of the most "sandbagged" 5.7's anywhere, but truly a joy.
CLICK TO ENLARGE PHOTOS 1. Weeping Rock Chimney 2. Angel's Landing 3. 2nd Pitch Weeping Rock Chimney 4. Streaked Wall 5. 1st Pitch Weeping Rock Chimney 6. Weeping Rock Chimney from Cave Route 7. View of Arch from inside the Chimney 8. The Sentinel 9. White Throne
