Mount Weed Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.79306°N / 116.52778°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Mount Weed makes for an interesting objective as its summit view gives up several prime
alpine routes along the Icefields Parkway, including the Snowbird Glacier and East Face,
IV 5.6, of Mount Patterson (photo) right across the road that is in view during most of the
Mount Weed’s ascent. You will also see the upper Northeast Buttress, V 5.8-A0, on Howse
Peak; Mount Chephren’s East Face, V 5.9-A1 as well as the Wild Thing on Chephren, VI
5.9-A3-WI 4, White Pyramid’s tame East Ridge, II and Mount Forbes way in the distance,
one of the popular 11,000’ers. Mount Weed was officially named in 1903 after a member
of the Appalachian Club who made a number of first ascents in the Canadian Rockies. It
was actually first ascended by the Kingmans guided by Hasler in 1936.

Although this scramble is not often ascended, it offers a straight forward day and its
southern slopes can be in considerably better shape then its neighbors on the west side
of the Icefields Parkway. The only published route is the scramble route in Alan Kane’s
Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies guide book and he rates it a moderate. I consider it
on the easy side of moderate. His estimation of time is 6-9 hours and I took 5.5 hours
round trip. The total ascent via altimeter was 4500’+/-. The views are quite tremendous,
with the ability to see Mount Assiniboine to the east on a clear day. The Wapta, Freshfield
and Lyell Icefileds are very visible to the west. Mount Weed is just about the most centered
scramble along the Icefields Parkway to take in the scenery and peaks south of the
Columbia Icefield.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National Parks on
its way to Vancouver. As you pass through Lake Louise heading westbound, you want to
exit onto the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) towards Jasper. Travel north 29 miles,
48kms, along the Icefields Parkway. Mount Weed will be on your right hand side and come
into full view as you approach after descending from the Bow Summit pass.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National Park
coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four national parks. If
you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an
annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in Banff or Yoho National Parks,
but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on
spending a night in the backcountry versus the conventional campsites. This can be
obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping section below. The huts
are managed by the Alpine Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club of Canada
headquarters is located in Canmore, AB, the Banff National Park headquarters is located
in Banff, AB and Yoho National Park headquarters is located in Field, BC.

You will drive through the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff National Park
on the Trans-Canada. You will drive through a kiosk area again as you gain the Icefield
Parkway. However, it is normally not manned in the winter and the road is closed regularly
due to bad weather conditions.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person
during the non-hibernation periods. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area
and/or trail closures.

When to Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed Mount Weed in late October and found the route relatively dry, little
ice or wet snow. Some years, that would not be the case in October. This is a southern
route and gets more sun than other routes.

Camping
There is a variety of camping up and down the Icefields Parkway during the summer
months, however, much of it is closed in the fall, winter and spring. You can go on line at
Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit. You will also be
required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be obtained
simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site. You cannot camp outside of
the marked specific camping areas unless you are also in possession of a specific horse
grazing permit. The Rampart Creek Hostel is close by and serves as a good base. Rates
for dorm style were $23-$27 in 2006. It has 24 beds and reservations are recommended.
(866) 762-4122

Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside
of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely useful

Route
This is a 4500’+/- total ascent day. From the road pull out, hike north along the road for
approximately 5 minutes looking for a cairn (2006) and/or a small clearing on your right.
Break through this clearing to find a drainage that leads up to a waterfall that pours over
the first cliff band on Mount Weed’s southwestern slopes. Ascend this drainage on the
right bank until you are at the foot of this waterfall. Ascend the steep ground to the right of
this waterfall. Do not ascend too high. Once you are above the waterfall, you want to
traverse left along the steep slope above the drainage to the right fork drainage (dry). You
can ascend straight up the drainage which will involve some bushwhacking at first or you
can ascend the right bank through the sparse trees. I ascended in the tree line to the right
but used the rocky drainage for a quicker descent. Either way, you are looking for “rock
city”. For a brief period, it will look like you are in southern Utah. Huge boulders the size of
homes and cars and multi-colored rock litter this area. Contour to your left as you look for
two very large boulders (photo) that mark the top of the drainage/gully close to tree line. In
2006 there was a cairn at the top of the gully.

A broad talus gully leads straight up to Mount Weed’s southern shoulder (col). This
involves several thousand feet of uneventful mundane gain. You have a choice to split off
to the left as you ascend through the steep summit cliffs. However the ground to the left
presents somewhat of a terrain trap for rock fall as well as avalanches if snow filled. It
narrows considerably the further you ascend. The ground straight up is broader and you
can stick to the right side for an easier ascent on larger talus and/or firm snow. This option
leads to a small col on Mount Weed’s southern shoulder. As you gain this col, beware of
any cornice. Conical Peak to the east comes into full view (photo).

Turn left and angle your way along loose ledges to the summit (photo). You have farther
to go than you think you do at this point, at least another 500’. The rock you see above
you to the left from the col is not the summit. You want to continue to traverse left at all
times, taking the easier ground up loose ledges. Eventually you will come to a short crux
section that takes a few moves to gain and then the summit to the north comes into view.
Traverse on over to the summit. The scree field below you is the top portion of the steeper
option you had further down. There was a summit canister in 2006, but it lacked a logbook.

The views from the summit are extensive including the Snowbird Glacier and East Face, IV
5.6, of Mount Patterson right across the road that is in view during most of the Mount Weed’
s ascent, the upper Northeast Buttress, V 5.8-A0, on Howse Peak, Mount Chephren’s East
Face, V 5.9-A1 as well as the Wild Thing on Chephren, VI 5.9-A3-WI 4, White Pyramid’s
tame East Ridge; and the ability to see Mount Assiniboine to the east on a clear day. The
Wapta, Freshfield and Lyell Icefileds are clearly visible to the west. Mount Weed is just
about the most centered scramble along the Icefields Parkway to take in the scenery and
peaks south of the Columbia Icefield.

Descent
You can return the same or for a quicker ride, take the soft scree just south of the summit.
First move left onto the ledges to avoid ice and a steep narrow gully to the right. Move
down the ledges for a time until you can safely move back into the steep gully to the right
below the narrow icy section. If not solo, rock fall would be an issue. Otherwise, zig zag
your way down talus and scree looking for the soft spots, until you merge back with your
ascent route. Return the same from there.

Essential Gear
Helmet, Bear Spray, Hiking Poles, Gaiters, Alpine Ax if Snow Conditions, Possibly
Crampons as well. I needed neither in late October. Heavy Boots to Protect against the
Large Talus on Descent