Weathering Heights, Planter's Valley, South Ghost Ice Climbs

Lat/Lon: 51.25056°N / 115.19583°W - Click for Satellite Image
Weathering Heights, Anorexia Nervosa and the Peanut Gallery are all WI 4 climbs
that make up the three main waterfall ice routes of Planters Valley in the south ghost
to the south of Devil’s Gap. Weathering Heights and Anorexia Nervosa are directly
across from each other as you make your way up Planters Valley and its canyon
walls start to get steeper, thus forming the waterfall ice.

From the trailhead parking area at the Banff National Park boundary, follow the old
road path west and venture left into the first canyon to the south. Gain elevation for
about one hour up the dry creek bed that is Planters Valley.

Weathering Heights is comprised of two full pitches (55m each). The first pitch, from
a distance, (photo) always has the look of a mixed start. However, once you ascend
the steep loose gully below it, it becomes obvious that the start is much easier then it
looks from afar. This is a popular south Ghost route and can be quite picked out by
February most years. That is the condition we found it in February, 2007.

Route Description
1st Pitch/55m- Start right on easy ice and move back center, right and then left
again to maneuver above protruding rocks separating the falls. Obviously the
condition of these falls could vary drastically from year to year. The crux and
steepest ice is 30-40 meters up below the before mentioned rock buttress. We
went left for the final 10 meters, but it goes right as well, just steeper. The route
eases after this steep section and you should find a reasonably comfortable, albeit
small, belay stance at about 55 meters.

2nd Pitch/55m- The second pitch is an uneventful WI 3 pitch that is broken up after
approximately 25 meters by a large bench. You can stop here or continue for the final
curtain which offers another 10 meters of climbing. Once above this final portion,
there are a variety of trees to use for your first rappel (several rap slings on different
trees in 2007).

Rap back to your first belay and set up an abalokov if bomber ones do not already
exists. This route is climbed so often, that we used several existing abalokovs for pro
for the climb and did not have to build any belay or rap station ourselves.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 10-12 Ice Screws with draws and/or
screamers (couple of short ones for the start possibly), Crampons, Helmet, Warm
Clothes (Planters Valley is guaranteed to be quite a bit colder than most of the
other climbing areas in the south Ghost), Full Shank Boots, 4W Drive (Preferable),
Shovel and Sleeping Bag, the Ghost can be full of surprises, particulary in February
where the drifts have started to accumulate. Many climbers end up parking short of
the trail head. We made it all the way in this trip with our FJ Cruiser. Poles are real
handy for Planters Valley because the ascent involves a rocky creek bed with the
voids full of snow. In other words you can stumble around quite a bit. Snowshoes
might even be helpful if there is an unusual amount of snow filling this creek bed.

Notes: Peter loves going up Planter's Valley, I am so-so on it. The route I believe I
would enjoy the most is the last one (of the published routes) we have not done,
Anorexia Nervosa. It has to be 10-20 degrees F colder up here vs most of the south
Ghost routes. Really can funnel a cold wind. Weathering Heights was picked out bad
by February. I suspect it is a bomber route in early January.