Unnamed Peak, East Ridge, Alpine II, 5.4

Lat/Lon: 51.3975°N / 116.29417°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Unnamed Peak is as official of a name as any other simply because it has been
called that for so long. It is the mountain located between Popes Peak and Mount
Collier to the northeast of Mount Victoria. Unnamed Peak is situated on the
Continental Divide which serves as the border between Yoho and Banff National
Parks and is part of the historical Lake Louise group.

The approach in to Unnamed Peak takes you on the popular Plain of Six Glaciers
Trail that originates at the Chateau Lake Louise and diverts at the Plain of Six
Glaciers Tea House. There are no viable ski routes up the mountain. There are
several interesting alternative descents, one down the northeast ridge of Mount
Victoria via steep glacier terrain presenting a variety of objectionable hazards or a
descent down Mount Collier’s north glacier into Lake O’Hara . Popes Peak looks like
a reasonable traverse as well. We descended the East Ridge route back to the Plain
of Six Glaciers Tea House.

Unnamed Peak’s East Ridge is the only published route up the mountain and is
listed in Sean Dougherty’s “Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies” as an
Alpine II, 5.4 climb. The route has quite a bit of history due to its proximity to other
more infamous routes of the Lake Louise area. Barry Blanchard also offers it as one
of his “Modern Alpinism with Barry Blanchard” climbs. I was invited to join another SP’
er (Fury) and his partner on this climb and have to admit, if not for their suggestion, I
am not sure I would have ever done this mountain or route. All being said it was an
enjoyable enough climb except it was more than typically loose for the area. I was a
little surprised that Barry chose it for one of his courses. Due to no summit log or
cairn and minimal other evidence, I suggest that few if any traipse up the ridge except
for Yamnuska guiding. Somewhere I saw it stated that the east ridge route on
Unnamed was good rock for the area. I have to adamantly disagree with that
statement. It is as loose as any and never really firms up much at any section. It
rates as just about the worse ridge climb I have done in reference to that particular
characteristic. There are a few fun short pitches, but you top out right back on loose
shale, etc. The hanging ice seracs mentioned in the guidebook have become more
like a sliding glacier today. The main hazard moving underneath the ice is the
shooting gallery of rocks that thaw out of the ice several thousand feet above
during sunny days. Of course the views from the summit just about make up for any
negativity you could drum up on the route. They include Mount Victoria, The Mitre and
Mount Lefroy to the south, Popes Peak, Mount Niblock and Mount Whyte to the north
and the Wapta Icefield to the northwest.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn left through town and follow this road
5kms to its end at the Lake Louise parking area. The trailhead parking lot is to the
left and is free of charge. There are restrooms at this location. Head west for the lake
and follow it to its right. Eventually this will turn into a wide trail and leave the hotel
complex behind.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This
pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National
Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff or Yoho National Parks, but all camping is regulated.
There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the
backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website
which is included above. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive
through the manned kiosks as you enter the park. This is active grizzly country,
therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person during non-hibernation
months. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures,
however, the trail to the back of the lake if rarely if ever closed.

Camping
The closest camp site would be back in town at the Lake Louise Campground. You
can go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping
permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate,
but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site. The
Lake Louise Alpine Center Hostel is a great place to eat and has been recently
renovated, but is more expensive than your average hostel. Of course those with the
big bucks can camp out at the Chateau itself.

When to Climb
I climbed Unnamed Peak in early July and the route was in good shape. I would
avoid getting a late start on a warm sunny day due to the fact that you have to
traverse under a hanging glacier to get to the start to the ridge. If you are
descending the same route, this could be the most treacherous aspect of the entire
day. Rocks fall from high up on Unnamed’s eastern flank. They get embedded into
the glacier and thaw out during warm sunny days. Because this is ice and not snow,
the rocks slide several thousand feet down to the ledge you must traverse. This
makes sort of a shooting gallery effect. We witnessed it firsthand. There are plenty of
decent short cliffs to traverse under for protection, but at times you will be exposed to
this phenomenon.

Mountain Conditions
The Yoho National Park and Banff National Park websites have weather, wildlife
reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks websites, Canadian Avalanche
Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident
Reports is also extremely relevant.

Route
This is a 4700’+/- day. Unnamed Peak is just one of many objectives that can be
reached via the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail in Banff National Park. This is the wide trail
that actually starts at the Lake Louise Chateau (5680’) on the east end of Lake
Louise. During the summer months, the start of this trail can be packed with tourists.
However, if you get an alpine start, you will have it mostly to yourself, besides a
porcupine, fox, etc, here and there. Proceed on the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail for over
5 kilometers as it bypasses the popular sport and trad climbing area of Louise Falls
on its way to the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House at 6888’. As you break out of the
trees just west of the Tea House, your objective comes into full view to the northwest.
Of course Mount Victoria and Mount Lefroy dominate most of the views. Popes Peak
and Unnamed hem in the northwestern end of the deep valley that dead ends into
the “deathtrap”.

Follow the trail to the west end of the large scree/snow field that leads up to the
glacier that hangs between Popes Peak and Unnamed. You will gain another 1000’
here as you follow a faint trail that crosses over a small drainage to the right as it
ascends scree to the lower right hand corner of the significant headwall below the
glacier. You are aiming to the right of any waterfalls visible from below. In July,
we still had a solid snow slope that ascended the right side of the headwall
waterfalls to a broad ledge that you use to traverse back left under the glacier. The
guide book talks of hanging seracs although the real danger is the prevalent
sliding rock on ice that creates a shooting gallery effect if you are traversing on
a warm sunny day. Proceed quickly across this ledge crossing over a drainage or
two aiming for the upper left corner where you will ascend the far western tip of the
glacier as you continue to contour left so you can catch the east ridge.

Once you are at the base of the East Ridge (cairned in 2006), scramble up loose
rock (it is all loose, all the way to the summit) past a bivy spot gaining more of the
defined ridge as you proceed. You will parallel a ridge to your left. Stay on the ridge to
the right. You will see the first of two headwalls that were clearly visible down at the
Tea House come into view quickly. You want to ascend an easy corner at the right
side of this first headwall. I placed one piece of gear and slinged one rock. There is
not much for placement, but I would have been comfortable soloing this grade as
well. Once you reach the top of this first pitch, you move a little further up to actually
find the rappel station, which was comprised of three pitons, one old, two new in
2006.

You can see the 2nd headwall from here. Do a mountaineers coil and work your way
over some more tedious loose shale and rock to the center of this obstacle. There
you will find a corner leading into a small chimney. Again, easy climbing, I maybe
placed one or two pieces. Ascend to the top of the chimney and you should find quite
a few slings wrapped around a significant piece of rock. Bring up the second.

Although I pitched the rope out on two more short walls for my partner that day, I did
not place gear during the rest of the climb. Just stay on the ridge and don’t get
sucked to the right ledges. Every time you think the rock is going to improve, the ridge
reverts back to its old loose self. Finally you reach the summit ridge which is
comprised of a small summit block (photo) and a very large snow slope that feeds
the glacier below and leads over the Col to Popes Peak to the north. I scrambled up
the summit block, but you can circumvent it to the right on the snow slope for an
easier ascent. There was no summit register or cairn in 2006 despite the fact that
Barry Blanchard offers this peak as a paid guiding trip.

You have three options for descent, the northeast ridge of Mount Victoria and thus
down its northeast glacier, down the north glacier of Mount Collier into Lake O’Hara
or descend the route which offers little reprieve to the knees. You obviously need to
make your decision ahead of time in terms of transportation arrangements and
gear requirements. We descended the ascent route via 3 rappels. The lower two I
already discussed and a third that we slung off of a large horn to climbers right of a
separate pinnacle type of feature further up. There should be two slings there now,
some shoelace we found on it already and a nice wide blue sling that we left. It is
skiers left as you descend the ridge.

Be careful once you reach that snow slope on the east side of the ledge below
the glacier. A waterfall basically runs beneath it making some of that slope hollow.
I could easily visualize someone glissading one moment on firm snow and falling
through a weakness the next.

Essential Gear
Depends on your chosen descent route of course. To just do the route, one 60 meter
rope would be adequate, several cams, nuts and long draws. Boots are fine for
climbing this grade. Helmets are definitely a must. Harness, etc. Take poles and
leave them at the glacier if you are descending the route.