Tunnel Mountain- Gooseberry Trad Climb

Lat/Lon: 51.17639°N / 115.55556°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
I lived in the Bow Valley for four years before I really even knew what exactly was Tunnel
Mountain. I have been back and forth on Tunnel Mountain Road to attend the Banff
International Film Festival, etc., but never paid attention to the “hill” as Tunnel Mountain
was so named by James Hector in the late 1800’s. Tunnel Mountain was officially named
in 1883. The Canadian Pacific Railroad company had considered building a tunnel
through the mountain for the railway. Eventually they came to the conclusion it was easier
to circumvent the mountain to the north.

I was turned on to the seven pitch Gooseberry route (5.8 trad) by some friends who had
picked it up on Tabvar.org. From hiking across the base of the east face to the start of
Gooseberry, I learned there are quite a few routes, both trad and sport, on the east side of
Tunnel Mountain. Still, this is not an area that really serves those of us in Canmore well
since we are closer to much longer and more challenging trad routes on Yamnuska or
sport routes in Cougar and Grotto Canyon.

Interestingly enough, the first accender of Mount Assiniboine, the highest peak in Banff
National Park, James Outram was also the first official accender of Tunnel Mountain in
1900. Therefore Outram became the first man to climb both the highest and lowest
summits in Banff National Park.

The shape of Tunnel Mountain is a result of its submergence by glaciers. The ice glided
up the west side of this bedrock knob, but on the east side carried off rock loosened by
repeated freezing and thawing of water in crevices. The rounded appearance of Tunnel
Mountain contrasts with the sharp summits of nearby, higher peaks, such as Rundle and
Cascade.

There is a popular tourist trail to the summit of Tunnel Mountain (used for descent of the
technical routes), but this page is dedicated to the following climbing routes:

Black Band Area (South Tunnel): This is a small cliff with 6 sport routes that are ideal for
early season climbing. The approach takes about 15 minutes and the crag is exposed to
the sun and sheltered from the wind. Climbs on the south side of Tunnel Mountain are
reached from the small parking area at the corner of Buffalo Street and Tunnel Mountain
Drive opposite the viewpoint for Bow Falls. From the parking area follow a large trail
heading east that slowly descends to the valley floor. Continue until a major side channel
of the Bow River is reached (about 10 minutes). The river channel bends sharply to the
right at this point and there is a small sandy beach. Leave the main trail just past the
beach and walk diagonally left away from the river passing a large Douglas fir at the foot of
the slope. Locate a small trail (cairn) that zigzags up the slope towards the lower left end
of the cliff a few minutes from the river.

Number One Sturfried 5.10a- Al Ducros and Pierre Giguerre, 2000
Walk The Line 5.10b- Chas Yonge and Chris Perry, 2006
The Missing Link 5.10b- Al Ducros and Deborah Ashton, 2000
The Force 5.8- Al Ducros and J.P.McCormid, 2002
One Brick in the Wall 5.10c- Al Ducros, Deborah Ashton and J.P.McCormid, 2002
Miller's Traverse 5.8- Al Ducros and Deborah Ashton, 2000.

Gooseberry Area (East Tunnel): I have added the Gooseberry route with approach, etc.
There are quite a few projects and new routes all over the south wall. The two long
trad/sport routes are Gooseberry: 5.8- 250 meters- 7 pitches- Lloyd MacKay and Ken
Baker, 1967 and the MacKay Route: 5.10c- 215 meters- 7 pitches- Joe MacKay, (finished?).

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff National Park on its way to
Vancouver. As you pass through the park gates and approach the Banff exits, take the first
exit coming from the east. Turn left and cross under the TransCanada. Take your first left
on Tunnel Mountain Road. Proceed until you come to a four stop intersection. Turn left on
Tunnel Mountain Drive and this paved road circumvents Tunnel Mountain to the north.
Where you park depends on what route you are after.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National Park
coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four national parks. If
you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an
annual pass.

There are no permit requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is
regulated. There is a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the
backcountry versus the conventional campsites. This can be obtained via the parks
website which is included in the camping section below. The huts are managed by the
Alpine Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club of Canada headquarters is
located in Canmore, AB and the Banff National Park headquarters is located in Banff, AB.

When to Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed the Gooseberry route in May and found the route dry and in good
shape. This is an ideal early or late season multi-pitch rock climb.

Camping
There is a variety of camping around the Banff area and of course tons of lodging. There is
a large RV/tent campground on your right on Tunnel Mountain Road as you approach
Tunnel Mountain. You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain
your camping permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is
separate, but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry
site. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas unless you are also
in possession of a specific horse grazing permit.

Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside
of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely useful. Tunnel Mountain
has 8 accident reports on this site, 5 of them related to Gooseberry. It is a popular route.

Route Description
Lloyd MacKay and Ken Baker put up Gooseberry in 1967. They originally rated it 5.7, it has
since been changed to a more modern rating of 5.8. Three of us took 6 hours to casually
complete the route from car to car. You walk off via a trail down the west side and walk
down Tunnel Mountain Drive back to your car. It is approximately a 1000+/- ascent day.

From any number of Tunnel Mountain Drive pullouts on the left, hike through the forest
towards the east wall of Tunnel Mountain. There are trails all over the place, but get to the
wall and head south. Start below a short groove capped by a yellow roof. If I recall correctly
there is paint marking the bottom of the route.

1st Pitch- 30m- 5.4/ Climb the right wall of the groove past an old piton and a bolt higher
up to a station at a ledge on the right.

2nd Pitch- 40m- 5.6/ Angle up left to gain a ramp that leads to a long, right-facing corner.
Climb the corner to a large ledge on the left with a bolted station located behind several
trees.

3rd Pitch- 45m- 5.8/ Move out left several meters to start the 3rd pitch. Climb easy ground
moving left again and up to gain a large ledge with a left-facing corner system above.
Climb this corner utilizing some layback moves (crux) past several bolts on the left.
Move over a bulge above versus the short corner and pitons on the right. Step back right
and move up to a small ledge on the right. Climb the wall above past two bolts to reach a
station on the right.

4th Pitch- 25m, 5.6/ Move up left over a small bulge and climb a shallow groove past two
pitons. Go diagonally up left into a left-facing corner and follow it to a ledge and bolt belay.
At this point you have an alternative finish to the original route and we took it.

5th Pitch- 50m, 5.8/ This is an aesthetic sport pitch raided from the MacKay route to
the right. Move up and right and follow the line of bolts diagonally to the right on some of
the best vertical rock of Tunnel Mountain. At the top of the wall, move up sloping ledges
and then traverse right and up to the bolt belay at the top of a large corner.

6th Pitch- 30m, 5.7/ Move up diagonally left on broken ground to a groove capped by a
roof. Two meters below the roof, ignore the bolt line going left, move up right past a piton
into a steep right facing corner. Sustained 5.7 up the corner leads to a bolt belay on a
good ledge below an obvious chimney.

7th Pitch- 30m, 5.7/ Move left and make an awkward move up past a bolt into the base of
the chimney. Climb the chimney for a short distance and then step out left onto an easy
ramp with excellent rock that leads up past a piton to a chained station near the top.
Alternatively, continue up the chimney to a large tree at the start of easy ground.

Descent
Once you top out, look for a trail in the trees and turn right if you want to take a 5 minute
hike to the summit. From the summit follow the marked trail down the west side of Tunnel
Mountain. You can leave the main trail via a number of faint trails off of the switchbacks to
circumvent the north side of Tunnel Mountain so you can get back to Tunnel Mountain
Drive at a shorter distance to your car.

Essential Gear
Typical Canadian Rockies trad rack, but no need to carry excessive gear, quite a bit of fixed
protection on the route. Helmet, rock shoes, etc. We used double ropes which I almost
always advise on trad routes in the Canadian Rockies, plus it bodes well for three
climbers.