Storm Mountain Scramble

Lat/Lon: 50.58°N, 114.93°W
Storm Mountain (not to be confused with the Storm Mountain in Banff National Park)
is part of the Misty Range located in the Highwood Pass region of Kananaskis
Provincial Park which encompasses over 4,000 square kilometers of foothills and
mountains bordering Banff National Park in the central Canadian Rockies. Like the
Storm Mountain in Banff National Park though, Storm Mountain, Kananaskis, was
officially named in 1884 by Dr. Dawson because it was shrouded by storm clouds for
much of the time he was camped below it. He named both mountains the same
name for the same reason in the same year and both names were officially
accepted. Storm Mountain shares the Misty Range with Mount Arethusa and Mount
Rae and sits directly east of the Elk Range consisting of Mount Pocaterra and Mount
Tyrwhitt.

The only published route up Storm Mountain is the moderate scramble via its larch
filled southwestern slopes to the more challenging south ridge. It is a short day
scramble due to its proximity to Highway 40. You are treated to northwestern views of
the Royal Group, including Mount Sir Douglas. In my opinion, this Highwood Pass
region serves up the most scenic and accessible high alpine foliage in all of the
Canadian Rockies as well as has an abundance of mountain sheep.

Getting There
Take the Kananaskis Trail (Highway 40) exit off of the Trans-Canada Highway
between Calgary and Canmore. Drive to 4.4 km past the Highwood Meadows
Interpretive Trail parking area at Highwood Pass. Park at a pullout on the right for the
Lost Lemon Mine.   Kananaskis Trail is closed from December 1 through June 15,
and I do mean with a gate. The closure is at Kings Creek (Canyon), meaning no
access to any of the Highwood area mountains prior to June 15th, except by ski
or bike.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis
Provincial Park. This is active grizzly country however. Take bear spray.   As of July,
2005, we have current trail closures in this area of Kananaskis due to a mountain
lion (protecting its kill) and grizzly with cubs (bluff charge).   Therefore it is prudent
to check recent notices posted on the bulletin board outside of park headquarters
which you drive by on Highway 40 (Kananaskis Trail).   If they are open, check in with
the ranger staff, they have tons of beta and are always friendly.

When To Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed Storm Mountain in August of 2004 and was faced with high
winds, cold temperatures and considerable snow on the final summit ridge making
Storm more of a difficult scramble. There are no published backcountry ski routes on
Storm Mountain nor would I suspect this to be a mountain worth trying to put up a ski
route. (again, not to be confused with Storm Mountain in Banff National Park , which
is an outstanding backcountry ski summit)

Camping
The closest camping is a backcountry site at Elbow Lake, 1.3 km in on Big Elbow
Trail several kilometers south off of Hwy 40. There are tons of camping options
further north at Kananaskis Lakes. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific
camping areas in Kananaskis. Refer to the Kananaskis Provincial Park website for
more information regarding camping and/or lodging.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website I
have used. Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also
useful, particularly for winter travel.

Route
This is a 3500’+/- ascent day.    Storm Mountain can be a challenging scramble dry,
but with fresh snow it should be treated as though difficult.   Park at the Lost Lemon
Mine pull off just 4 km south of the Highwood Pass parking area.   Hike a few meters
back northwest along the road to your first drainage area and follow its left side up
and onto a trail that takes you back into a cirque.

Once the meadow ends proceed at an angle up the left side to gain the south ridge
of Storm Mountain. This will involve hands on scrambling that rarely gives way to feet
only. You are aiming for the easiest break on the ridge, the least rugged section of
the col. There was a pole in 2004 marking a good place to attain the ridge. Then plod
up to the east summit. From here the south ridge looks daunting, particularly when
covered in snow.   An eastern ledge (right side) does not look a whole lot less
exposed.   I started out on the ridge, four points of contact in many spots and
finally down climbed onto the eastern ledge to proceed at a better pace.

I continued on this ledge angling leftward at all times aiming for the summit.   Finally
you reach some lower 5th class climbing sneaking through a hole on the north
side.   If there is no snow, I imagine the ridge is inviting on the south side for the final
approach.   I had mini storms moving in and out on me, so my views were limited.
There was a summit register in 2004.

On descent, I chose to cross over a precarious snow covered notch to gain the
west ridge.   This took some courage as the west ridge is not visible from the
summit and I was dealing with 2 feet of fresh powder.   However, once one
carefully maneuvers the ridge down about 400', you will find angles in which to start
your descent. This optional descent demands experience with route finding to get off
the mountain. Once down to Storm's cirque (next one west from where you
ascended), just follow the drainage (waterfalls when I was there) to the road. You
will want to try this one dry, unless experienced.

Essential Gear-Alpine Ax if Snow Conditions Prevail, Helmet, Gaiters and Bear Spray

Trip Report
After a week of the wettest weather I have ever seen in the Canadian Rockies, the
most I could muster was this popular scramble in the Highwood area, and I still got
snowed on!   I had mini storms moving in and out on me, so my views were limited.
There was a summit register in 2004.   On descent, I chose to cross over a
precarious snow covered notch to gain the west ridge and was dealing with 2 feet of
fresh powder.   I might want to revisit the mountain when it is dry, but great outing just
the same.