Snivelling Gully, II, WI 3

Lat/Lon: 52.14361°N / 117.04472°W- Click for Satellite Image
The Weeping Wall area on the Banff National Park Icefield Parkway is home to two of
the most sought after waterfall ice climbing objectives anywhere, Polar Circus, 1600’
of V, WI 5 and Weeping Wall (tons of grades and lengths). The name of Polar Circus
was derived from the original ascentor, Charlie Porter, who while complaining of
suspect gear on the crux of the route, exclaimed the event was nothing more than a
“Polish Circus”. Lower Weeping Wall itself is a curtain as wide as it is tall offering
just about every grade level.

Weeping Wall is located on the east side of the Columbia Icefield Parkway just north
of the Mount Wilson ice climbing area in Banff National Park, one of four connecting
national parks making up the central Canadian Rockies.

Three critical factors make Weeping Wall popular:

Access-

many routes are accessed just 15 minutes from your car

Southern Exposure-

although you will lose the sun fairly early during the

short winter afternoons

Rampart Creek Hostel

- manned and open in the winter almost exclusively

for ice climbers/skiers.

Weeping Wall is comprised of a minimum of 22 published waterfall ice and mixed
climbing routes. Joe Josephson’s “Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies” is
an excellent guide book featuring photos and topos relative to these 22 routes.

Routes
Lower Weeping Wall (all kinds of lengths and grade-see photos)

Snivelling Gully 180m II, WI 3- Use Snivelling Gully's descent for most of the
Lower Weeping Wall routes. It is fully fixed via three bolted stations and a tree.
The descent is explained in detail in the separate Snivelling Gully description
below..
Dead-Eye Dick 155m, III, WI 5+
Left Hand 180m, II, WI 4
Central Pillar 180m III, WI 5+
Right Hand 180m III, WI 5

Upper Weeping Wall

Teardrop 170m IV, WI 5+ to 6
Weeping Pillar 170m V, WI 6
Mare in Winter 200m IV, WI 4+
Nasty Habits 200m IV, WI 6
Ice T 180m IV, WI 6
Tales of Ordinary Madness 180m IV, WI 5+

Weeping Wall Area

Polar Circus 700m V, WI 5- A classic with Adam-March 2007. Thanks to
Kevin Craig for his notes. We had planned it and just happened upon his trip
report on the Vision the day before. As of March 1, pretty much same as Kevin
reported, including the huge thundering noice on the first tier (I combined
those two pitches by simul climbing on 60's) of the upper pitches. I actually
yelled avalanche to my belayer as I tried to pound a screw in. Weird deal,
same as Kevin, we heard it, I felt it on the ice, we saw nothing. My theory goes
like this. As I was bringing up my partner to the top of the first tier of the upper
pitches, I witnessed some small ice starting falling when the sun hit the
Ribbon. The Ribbon is adequately steep that small chunks of ice fall
unobstructed right on the top of the base of the first tier formation. I believe if
you are below or climbing on the ice, the echo and vibrations from this effect,
due to the huge walls on both sides, are quite magnified. Or at least that was
the excuse I was looking for to proceed. All ice was good, snow trails fast. The
free air rap over what's left of the pencil, should be a paid ride at Disney. Of
cousre since I was with Adam, I got to enjoy it in the dark. He likes his beauty
sleep and needs it. Cheers.
Bald, Bespectacled Ones 80m III, WI 4
Bob Sized 40m II, WI 2-4
Cold Shower With a View 45m III, WI 4
Whimper Wall 110m III, WI 4
Aerial Boundries 170m III, WI 5+
Mini Master 40m II, 5.6, WI 3
Mixed Master 300m IV, 5.8, WI 5- Considered one of the finer mixed routes in
the Rockies.
Tears of a Clown 30m II, WI 3
Team Effort 40m III, WI 4

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National
Parks on its way to Vancouver. As you pass through Lake Louise heading
westbound, you want to exit onto the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) towards Jasper
National Park. Pull off at a small parking area with a maintained winter outhouse on
the left hand side 10 miles north of the Rampart Creek Hostel. Weeping Wall is
directly across the parkway. This is a several hour drive from Canmore.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in
Banff or Yoho National Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a
backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the conventional campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website
which is included in the camping section below. The huts are managed by the Alpine
Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club of Canada headquarters is
located in Canmore, AB, the Banff National Park headquarters is located in Banff, AB
and Yoho National Park headquarters is located in Field, BC. You will drive through
the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-
Canada. You will drive through a kiosk area again as you gain the Icefield Parkway.
However, it is normally not manned in the winter.

When to Climb
I climbed on Weeping Wall in December. You can obviously climb all winter and the
avalanche danger is comparatively low above these routes compared to most ice
objectives in the Canadian Rockies. There are four published accident reports
related to Weeping Wall, none of which involved avalanches.

Camping/Lodging
There used to be a cook hut nearby Weeping Wall, but that has been removed by the
Parks. The Rampart Creek Hostel is 10 miles south on the Icefield Parkway and
serves as a good base for these climbs. Rates for dorm style were $23-$27 in 2006.
It has 24 beds and reservations are recommended. I saw a satellite dish there in
2006, hell they might have internet! (866) 762-4122

Mountain Conditions
The Yoho National Park and Banff National Park websites have weather, wildlife
reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks websites, Canadian Avalanche
Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident
Reports is also extremely relevant.

Snivelling Gully Route Description
This is less than a 1000’ ascent day. The ice climb itself is approximately 180 meters.
Your approach to the left corner of Weeping Wall will last all of 10-15 minutes. Leave
the parking area and cross the road to ascend to the base of the broad Weeping
Wall. Snivelling Gully will come into view to your left as it creeps up between the rock
and ice to the top left hand corner of the lower Weeping Wall. It is four pitches in total.
The first and last pitch are sustained for their grade, but the 2nd and 3rd pitches
are more ice scrambling than climbing. Snivelling Gully’s four rap descent off of
bolted chains and a tree is used by most parties climbing on Weeping Wall’s other
routes, so look for traffic on weekends. We went on a Tuesday in late December and
had the entire place to ourselves. You are more likely to have it to yourself if the road
is in bad winter condition which can be a good strategy to avoid crowds as long as it
is not closed or they close it while you are climbing.

1st Pitch- The guide book references that this section is often plagued by open
water, During our climb however I found it to be in decent shape (photos). I noticed it
became somewhat shallow up the middle and thus moved the lead back to my right
on better ice. There is a station off to the left that could be used if you want to bail mid-
way up I suppose. Continue up to where the gully narrows and turns right. There on
the wall to the left you will find a bomber station consisting of an older bolted chain
and new (2006) bolted rap rings.

2nd Pitch and 3rd Pitch- The 2nd pitch continues to follow the narrow and shallow
gully as it bends back left and up to a station over your left shoulder on the wall
above. I advise skipping this bolted station and just building a quick ice station at
the bottom of the next pitch which is nothing more than ice scrambling up the
narrowest part of the gully on mixed rock, ice and water to the upper “majestic” bowl
that contains the crux WI 3 pitch which is a full 60 meters and Snivelling Direct,
125m, WI 5 which offers some serious challenge on hanging chandelier columns to
the right of the final Snivelling Gully pitch.

4th Pitch- Several photos provided. Classic WI 3, offers plenty of rest stops to insert
screws, yet nice sustained curtain that trends left towards the top where you will find
a tree anchor with slings (2006) to start your rappel.

Descent
Most of the routes on Weeping Wall use the Snivelling Gully descent. You rappel off
of a tree at the top left (north) corner of Snivelling Gully where good webbing was in
place in 2006 down across rock and ice to a chain rappel station which is on the wall
to the far left of the base of the 4th pitch. The next rap takes you down and over more
rock and ice to another point far left of the base of the 3rd pitch. Then rappel back
down to your first station above the first pitch and make one final (4th) rappel to the
ground.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 12 Ice Screws and Draws, Crampons,
Helmet, Warm Clothes, Full Shank Boots. Be equipped to do a V Thread of course,
but you should not have to on this descent.

Notes: Hitting the ice just days after climbing on sandstone in southern Utah, what
fun transition. Excellent day, 1st and 4th pitches make it worthwhile, the two in
between are not so hot. Had the whole place to ourselves. Climbing ice every other
day, best season during the past 5.