Mount Smuts Scramble

Lat/Lon: 50.80694°N / 115 .3875 °W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Mount Smuts is part of the Spray Mountain Range that begins at the south end of Spray
Lakes Reservoir (photo) with Mount Shark and ends at Mount Indefatigable to the north of
Upper Kananaskis Lake. Other objectives within the range include The Fist, Mount Burstall,
Mount Murray, Mount Black Prince and Mount Warspite. I have been on all of these
objectives. Mount Smuts summit is actually a boundary point for Kananaskis Country,
Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and Banff National Park. Kananaskis Country is a maze of
provincial parks which encompasses over 4,000 square kilometers of foothills and
mountains bordering Banff National Park to the east and south in the central Canadian
Rockies. Peter Lougheed Provincial Park is a separate 500 square kilometer provincial
park that borders Kananaskis to the south. The most memorable aspect of this climb for
me in July, 2006 would have to be the 12 moose I encountered this day, 10 on the way
and 2 on my bike out.

Mount Smuts’ first ascent was made in 1926 by a small group guided by Rudolph
Aemmer. Mount Smuts was named in 1918 after Jan Smuts, a field General for the British
in WWI thus in keeping with similarly named peaks in Kananaskis. He was also
instrumental in establishing the League of Nations, helped author the Preamble of the
United States, founder of the modern systems theory, coined the word “holistic” (one of my
favorites!), was an expert on grasses, the Prime Minister of South Africa, as well as
someone who showed keen interest in the mountains of his homeland, South Africa.

The only published route on Mount Smuts is the difficult rated scramble in Alan Kane’s
“Scrambles of the Canadian Rockies” guide book. Alan states in his book that Mount
Smuts might be the most difficult scramble he has listed. I do not necessarily concur as
I found the climb straight forward compared to several of his other difficult rated
scrambles, but if you search the internet, you will find several who classify this scramble
as an Alpine lower 5th class rated climb. The Commonwealth Creek approach is a
common backcountry ski playground in the winter. I have skied both the Smuts-Fist Col as
well as the Pigs Tail slopes across the valley (photos). The Smuts-Fist Col was the site of
a tragic backcountry ski accident in February of 2006 resulting in the death of an
experienced local skier. Remnants of the skier triggered 3.5 dry slab, 1000’+ wide
avalanche were quite evident during the summer of 2006 as I made my approach into
Mount Smuts among the debris. This event was a failure going down to the October rain
crust. I set off a similar sized event just weeks later, one valley over. Van Belliveau, a local
climber, fell to his death from the summit of Mount Smuts itself during the summer of 2005.
There are no viable ski routes to the summit of Mount Smuts and although there is an
optional north ridge descent, it would not make for a worthy ascent by any means.

The views from the summit of Mount Smuts rival any in Kananaskis Country. Mount Smuts
is perfectly situated among the three giants of the region, Mount Sir Douglas, Mount
Assiniboine and Mount Joffre. In fact the popular routes for all three of these mountains
are in clear view from the summit of Mount Smuts. Mount Smuts shares Cols with The Fist
and Mount Birdwood.

Getting There
From the Canmore Nordic Center, drive 36 km south on the Spray Lakes Road (gravel or
in winter, snow laden, maybe not even plowed depending how early you are getting
started). Turn right at signs for the Mount Shark Cross Country and Biathlon Range, Mount
Shark Helipad and Engadine Lodge . Cross a bridge and turn left on the first logging road
you come to. Park here and bike in to Commonwealth Creek on an old logging road that
forks to the right on a trail before you arrive at the creek. Watch for hazardous rock or snow
fall on the switchbacks above Canmore. I observed 10 female moose in the mud flats
west of Engadine Lodge and 2 bull moose (almost ran into) on the bike approach this
particular day. This is one of the most popular locations for moose in all of the Canadian
Rockies. Keep your eyes open.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis Country. This
is active grizzly country however. Take bear spray during non-hibernation months. This is
avalanche terrain during the winter. Therefore it would be prudent to check recent notices
posted on the park’s website regarding that issue. The park headquarters is actually
located on Highway 40 (Kananaskis Trail) several kilometers south of the Trans-Canada.
Notices are posted outside if they are closed. This is a solid information center with good
staff and beta and is open all year.

Camping
There are campsites galore in the Kananaskis Lakes complex, backcountry and camper
sites. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas in Kananaskis.
Refer to the Kananaskis Provincial Park website for more information regarding camping
and/or lodging. Engadine Lodge obviously offers premium lodging for the area as well.

When to Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time for scrambles is from June
through September. Mount Smuts is a difficult and slabby climb, therefore, it would be
prudent to climb the route dry. The safest descent is on the northwest side of the
mountain and needs to be free of snow in order to descend a steep chimney. On July 5,
2006, the route was in perfect condition with leftover snow in all the right places for a fast
descent.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including trail
conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche conditions,
camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if you are going to
spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website I have used. Outside of
the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter
travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely useful and feature several
reports relating to Mount Smuts including a fatality last summer (2005).

Route
Stop and smell the roses. That is something I have had to learn how to do in my
mountaineering exploits. It is easy for some of us to be totally focused on the athletic
aspect of the climb and lose sight of what we are really seeking, to be one with nature for
a period of time. The approach to Mount Smuts takes you by Engadine Lodge and thus
one of the most ideal moose habitats in the Canadian Rockies. It is a large marsh created
by the overflow of Commonwealth Creek. The moose have dug out a large mud flat area
which serves as their primary defense against ticks and mosquitoes. Moose don’t typically
die of starvation, but more so from blood loss due to ticks. An adult moose can carry as
many as 200,000 ticks at one time. On my approach to Mount Smuts this early summer
morning, I caught 10 female moose (photo) in the mud flats, some even laying down. As I
came out from my climb via my bike, I almost ran into two additional bull moose on the
old logging road.

It is best to take your bike on this approach. You are forced to park at the north end of
the old logging road that proceeds back to Commonwealth Creek. The sign was knocked
down in 2006, but large stones are in place and the bottom line is they do not want you
driving your vehicle down the road. Bike south for no more than 20 minutes looking to fork
right onto a single track trail. You can continue on bike until the thick brush makes it more
convenient to hike. Continue on the trail as it brings you to Commonwealth creek at a
beautiful wide 3 meter tall waterfall (photo). Start ascending the right bank via the trail up
into the Commonwealth Valley which is one of the most lush valleys (photo) in
Kananaskis Country. This is prime bear habitat, take proper precautions. One set of
scramblers had to outwait a bear crossing at the Fist-Smuts Col (photo) from the summit
of The Fist.

Continue along the right side of the valley bottom aiming for the Mount Birdwood (left) and
Mount Smuts (right) Col. You will pass the Fist on your right. In 2006, the trail becomes
somewhat faint due to a recent significant avalanche event that crossed its path. Work
your way through the destruction intermittently going in and out of forest. Once you reach
the end of the valley, you should still find plenty of snow in July along with an army of
mosquitoes. Ascend the snow slopes or if completely dry, you will continue on a decent
trail up the right side of the Col to the right of some rock croppings until the huge cone
shaped scree field that leads up Mount Smuts southern ridge comes into full view before
you reach the actual Col.

At the base of the scree you have completed approximately 1400’ of the 3400’ total for the
day. Take the scree field up to the base of the southeast ridge of Mount Smuts. Stay right
to enjoy a quick ascent on firm rock. This 1000’ gain to the west shoulder is pleasant
and fast. If you are climbing in the morning hours, you will appreciate the shade provided
by the ridge, which gives reprieve from the heat and mosquitoes that will follow you to
8500’ if conditions are right in this area. From certain photo perspectives, this section of
the climb looks dauntingly steep (photo), but is not so bad once you are into it. Sort of a
huge chimney.

Once the left ridge peters out into a western shoulder and you are approximately at 8600’
+/-, it is time for you to make your ascent up onto the ridge to your right. In 2006 this area
was well marked with cairns. However, from studying certain on line reports it appears
some do ascend this ridge too early. Make sure you get high enough to where you are
basically traversing ledges back right to a significant flat spot in which to don
harnesses or simply prepare yourself mentally for the upcoming crux. Scramble onto
the ridge and proceed up steep slabby terrain (photo). Your crux will be an exposed
section to the right where you must traverse back left over some relatively (by
scramble standards) blank sections. Staying on the ridge itself affords better climbing
and keeps you on firm rock. You will bypass two pitons in this vicinity. Eventually you
top out of this section and venture into another where you can ascend steep solid rock
above or ascend a solid chimney to your right (photo). The chimney was easy going,
albeit somewhat exposed. At the top of the chimney climb left up some steep terrain
back to the ridge and proceed past a relatively new (2006) bolt and hanger. You have
now completed the two crux sections of the ridge and the remaining climbing, although
exposed here and there, is relatively easy.

Proceed across a couple of small fake summits to the real thing. In 2006 there was a
summit register and I was the 2nd sign in on July 5th. There was also a separate
memorial canister for a local climber who perished off the summit in the summer of 2005.
The views of the three giants of the region, Mount Sir Douglas, Mount Assiniboine and
Mount Joffre were spectacular. Mount Sir Douglas is nicely framed behind Mount Birdwood
to the south and is the closest of the three. Incidentally, what all three of these 11,000’+
mountains show you from the summit of Mount Smuts are their most popular routes in full
view.

There are three options for descent, either bring a rope for two rappels down the ascent
route, down climb the ascent route or descend the north ridge (not the northeast which
others have done by mistake) for just a few hundred feet, if even, to a well cairned (2006)
loose chimney that descends off of the west side of the ridge. You basically reach a point
in the north ridge where it would be difficult to descend any further, so it is not that
difficult to find the chimney. Descend the initial steep chimney onto some loose scree on
firm rock and make your way down several hundred feet, maybe 500’. I was solo, but if
you have a partner, stay close together on this descent due to potential rock fall.
Again, you basically come to a point that would be difficult to descend any further.
Traverse left onto some narrow ledges that work their way back south to easier descent
paths. Eventually you will find yourself on large scree and can then make a fairly rapid
descent to the Col between Mount Smuts and a portion of Snow Peak. Turn left and
descend a fantastic snow slope (early July) all the way down to the lovely lower
Birdwood Lake. This is an incredible spot of super large boulders surrounding a pristine
and deep lake being filled by a waterfall at the southwest corner coming down from
upper Birdwood Lake.

Ascend the Mount Smuts-Mount Birdwood Col and descend back to the valley. You should
be able to take advantage of several snow slopes along the way. Return the same.

Essential Gear
Helmet, Boots made more for Rock Climbing than Mountaineering, Poles and Gaiters.
Harness, Rope and Biners to leave behind if you want to Rap the ascent route. Mosquito
deterrent is a must. Bear Spray is as well. Bike.