Redoubt Mountain Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.46667°N / 116.08056°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Redoubt Mountain is a 5 Star scramble in the scenic Skoki area located behind the Lake
Louise Ski Resort in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national parks making up
the central Canadian Rockies. Redoubt is part of the Slate Mountain Range, and along
with Ptarmigan Mountain and Fossil Mountain, hem in the stunning Ptarmigan Lake
(photo). The range is of course named after the slate like rock prevalent on its mountains.
Redoubt Mountain was named by Arthur Wheeler in 1908 because he observed that it
resembled a “redoubt”, which is defined as a military term meaning “stronghold or
temporary fortification”. Considering the circuitous approach, including significant elevation
loss and regain, it takes to reach its summit, Redoubt Mountain is aptly named. Redoubt is
well defended on approach from the west by sheer walls and really resembles a
battleship once you gain a view of it from the east (photo). It was first ascended in 1906 by
a topographical survey team. Redoubt Mountain in Banff National Park should not be
confused with Redoubt Peak in Jasper National Park.

The only published route up Redoubt Mountain is the difficult rated scramble in the
“Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies” guide book published by Alan Kane. I rate it on the
easy side of difficult relative to other difficult scrambles in the book. Due to the elevation
loss and regain it is a 4750’ ascent day from the car. However, many scramblers make
the ascent from one of several backcountry campsites in the area which make for a
shorter day. There are no other published routes I am familiar with and Mount Redoubt is
not conducive to a winter ascent.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Travel to the Lake Louise exit and turn right towards the Lake Louise Ski area and
drive 1.6kms and take another right onto the Temple Lodge access road. Proceed another
kilometer and turn right into the Fish Creek Trailhead parrking area on the right before the
gate to the Temple Fire Road. You definitely want to take your bike or skis for the 3.8
kms climb up Temple Fire Road. Some people hitch a ride with Lake Louise Ski Resort
employees who drive the road periodically both winter and summer. The bike ride climbs
1100’+/- past horse stables, ski lifts etc. until you reach a bridge and small storage
building on the left. No bikes are allowed beyond this point and it is well signed regarding
this fact. The Skoki trail starts just slightly up the road from the bridge.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National Park
coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four national parks. If
you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an
annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in Yoho National Park, but all
camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending
a night in the backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks
website which is included in the camping section below. Parks Canada headquarters are
located in Lake Louise and you will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.
This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person.
The lower slopes on approach is active female grizzly territory, however, this trail is rarely if
ever closed. I do advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When to Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I climbed Redoubt Mountain in August and found the route completely free of
snow despite the fact there is a small amount of glacier left in the northwest bowl.

Camping
There are four excellent back country camp sites in and around the Redoubt Mountain
area that can be used during the summer months: Hidden Lake Sk5, Baker Lake Sk11,
Red Deer Lakes Sk19 and Merlin Meadows Sk18. For summer or winter there is also the
Skoki Lodge option, but it is relatively expensive. It is a backcountry lodge located through
Deception Pass.

You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping
permit. You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but
can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site. You cannot
camp outside of the marked specific camping areas unless you are also in possession of
a specific horse grazing permit.

Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside
of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely useful.

Route
This is a 4750’+/- ascent day. I rate the scramble up Redoubt Mountain a 5 star objective
as the scenery by way of alpine lakes, meadows, etc. is second to none. One would
assume since you have to hike past a ski resort on approach that this area would not be
so impressive, but it is. The route up Redoubt Mountain is rated a difficult scramble by
Alan Kane in his guide book, Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, however I rate it on the
easy side of difficult compared to other difficult scrambles in the book. You definitely want
to take your bike for the 3.8km climb up Temple Fire Road from the Fish Creek
Trailhead. Some people hitch a ride with Lake Louise Ski Resort employees who drive the
road periodically. The bike ride climbs 1100’ past horse stables, ski lifts etc. until you
reach a bridge and small storage building. No bikes are allowed beyond this point and it
is well signed regarding this fact. The Skoki trail starts just slightly up the road from the
bridge and to the left.

Gain the Skoki Trail from the Temple Fire Road. This trail is wide and well used by horse
caravans, etc. Hike 4.7kms past a tidy day use cabin on your right to Boulder Pass at
7700’ which represents over 2000’ gain from the Fish Creek Trailhead. The valley you
travel in is hemmed in by Mount Richardson, Pika Peak and Ptarmigan Peak on your left
and Redoubt Mountain’s steep walled western flank on your right. Ironically, the wildlife I
enjoyed on my ascent through this area was in fact a pair of Pikas (photo) across from
Pika Peak as well as a family of Ptarmigans at Ptarmigan Lake.

Overtake Boulder Pass (evident naming by all the boulders you bypass) and turn right at
Ptarmigan Lake. Follow a faint trial around the lake until it leads up into a dry drainage
(August) towards Redoubt Lake. There is a shortcut I discovered. As you circumvent the
lake to the east you will observe a break among massive rock slabs that create their own
mini crevasses still chocked full of ice and snow. This shortcut should be readily marked
with a snow patch late in the season. Either navigate your way through this maze and
ascend due east through some short rock bands to the base of Redoubt’s eastern flank
or just travel the 1km from Ptarmigan Lake to Redoubt Lake as before mentioned.

Ascend the most northern slopes on the east side of Redoubt Mountain. Stay north of
Redoubt Lake. Pretty much aim for the end of the northern ridge. This whole profile of
Redoubt Mountain resembles a battle ship (photo). You want to ascend the bow of the
ship. If you have clear weather, you can easily see the breaks through several cliff bands
from below. There were some cairns in 2006 that also showed the way. Once you reach
the top of the flat ridge (8900’+/-), travel south to a very large cairn (2006) and descend
from the ridge some 400’+/- into the north bowl of Redoubt Mountain. If the cairn does not
exist, the bottom line is you want to descend into the bowl about midway along the
ridge. There is a line of large pale debris. This section offers the best down climbing
through large scree and boulders that are tumbling down into the bowl. Once at the
bottom of the bowl, move across and ascend to the northwest ridge of Redoubt Mountain.
Angle left through any obstacles and reach the top of the northwest ridge. If you hit
the exact spot I did, you will discover another well marked cairn. Follow the ridge, moving
right a time or two to avoid any real difficulty. You will enjoy the quality of the rock on this
ridge compared to the loose debris you experienced to this point in the scramble.
Eventually you will top out again onto a flat ridge. Bypass the summit cliff band (photo) to
the right via a short step or two. Once on top of the loose shale, continue south to the
summit.

There was a summit register in 2006 and I was the 6th sign in for the summer (August)
proving this is a relatively popular objective. For good reason. The 360 degree views from
Redoubt Mountain represents one of the real sweet spots in Banff National Park. The
views of the east ridge route up Mount Temple are 2nd to none. All of the Valley of the Ten
Peak mountains are in clear view. Of course Mount Hungabee, Mount Lefroy, Mount
Victoria and the Louise group in general are unambiguous as well from this vantage. Not
to mention Niles Peak, Mount Daly, Mount Balfour and other summits towards the
Icefields. Closer in you have Mount Bonnet and its glacier, Fossil Mountain, Mount Bride,
Mount Douglas, Pika Peak, Ptarmigan Peak and Mount Richardson and its glacier.

There is no question you are tempted to descend via a ridge back south towards Lipalian
Mountain which overlooks the ski resort, but without a rope and plenty of pitons, it would
be a foolish endeavor. Descend the route, utilizing the one shortcut I highlighted above. I
took 7 hours to complete the route, but was moving fast and solo.

Essential Gear
Helmet, Hiking Boots (tons of scree), Poles, Appropriate Clothing, Bear Spray