Polar Circus, V, WI 5

Lat/Lon: 52.14361°N / 117.04472°W- Click for Satellite Image
Cirrus Mountain’s claim to fame is serving as home to several of the most coveted
ice climbing routes/areas in the Canadian Rockies, Polar Circus, V, WI 5 and the
Weeping Wall, WI 3-6. Polar Circus is called the “showpiece of the Canadian
Rockies and a must for all climbers” by Joe Josephson in his reknowned guide book
“Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies”. It is one of the most sought after
routes anywhere in the world. Featuring 2300’+/- gain with over 1600’ of waterfall ice
spread out over 9+/- pitches, Polar Circus is a classic to say the least. Charlie Porter
is credited for naming the route while on first ascent when complaining about setting
up a station on one of the steep pitches, referring to his situation as nothing more
than a “Polish Circus”. Polish became Polar in the translation. Within Polar Circus is
a feature named the Pencil which rarely forms to the ground, but when it does it is
one of the finer WI 6 pillars anywhere.

Weeping Wall is comprised of a minimum of 22 published waterfall ice and mixed
climbing routes. Joe Josephson’s “Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies” is
an excellent guide book featuring photos and topos relative to these 22 routes.

Cirrus Mountain is located off of the Columbia Icefield Parkway 27kms north of the
Saskatchewan River crossing in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national
parks making up the central Canadian Rockies. Cirrus Mountain was officially
named in 1935 after the cloud formation that forms at high altitude. Previous to that it
was known as Mount Huntington. Cirrus Mountain was first ascended by the Sisson
brothers in 1939. Cirrus Mountain wraps around the Huntington Glacier that lies to
the southeast of the highest peak. There are subsidiary peaks to the south and to the
east-northeast. A glacier flows from a cirque on the northwest side of the mountain
as well.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National
Parks on its way to Vancouver. As you pass through Lake Louise heading
westbound, you want to exit onto the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) towards Jasper
National Park. Pull off at a small parking area with a maintained winter outhouse on
the left hand side 10 miles north of the Rampart Creek Hostel. Weeping Wall is
directly across the parkway. A trail leading to Polar Circus is less than a kilometer
back south. This is a several hour drive from Canmore.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in
Banff or Yoho National Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a
backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the conventional campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website
which is included in the camping section below. The huts are managed by the Alpine
Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club of Canada headquarters is
located in Canmore, AB, the Banff National Park headquarters is located in Banff, AB
and Yoho National Park headquarters is located in Field, BC. You will drive through
the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-
Canada. You will drive through a kiosk area again as you gain the Icefield Parkway.
However, it is normally not manned in the winter.

When to Climb
I climbed on Weeping Wall in December and Polar Circus in March. You can
obviously climb all winter and the avalanche danger is comparatively low above the
routes at Weeping Wall and relatively high on Polar Circus. There are four published
accident reports related to Weeping Wall, none of which involved avalanches and
several published accounts of death and injury on Polar Circus induced by
avalanche.

Camping/Lodging
There used to be a cook hut nearby Weeping Wall and a camping area below Polar
Circus, but both have been removed by the Parks. The Rampart Creek Hostel is 10
miles south on the Icefield Parkway and serves as a good base for these climbs.
Rates for dorm style were $23-$27 in 2006. It has 24 beds and reservations are
recommended. They were having problems with water and power in 2007 and were
closed periodically as a result. It would be advised to call ahead, (866) 762-4122.

Mountain Conditions
The Yoho National Park and Banff National Park websites have weather, wildlife
reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks websites, Canadian Avalanche
Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident
Reports is also extremely relevant.

Route Description
This is a 2300’+ ascent day. Polar Circus is called the “showpiece of the Canadian
Rockies and a must for all climbers” by Joe Josephson in his reknowned guide
book “Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies”. It is one of the most sought
after routes anywhere in the world. Featuring 2300’+/- gain with over 1600’ of
waterfall ice spread out over 9+/- pitches, Polar Circus is a classic to say the
least. Charlie Porter is credited for naming the route while on first ascent when
complaining about setting up a station on one of the steep pitches, referring to his
situation as nothing more than a “Polish Circus”. Polish became Polar in the
translation. Within Polar Circus is a feature named the Pencil which rarely forms to
the ground, but when it does it is one of the finer WI 6 pillars anywhere.

Polar Circus is just to the south of the Weeping Wall area located on the west flank of
Cirrus Mountain (10,720’) on the east side of the Columbia Icefield Parkway north of
the Mount Wilson ice climbing area in Banff National Park, one of four connecting
national parks making up the central Canadian Rockies. Mounts Nigel and Wilcox
are clearly visible to the northwest and Mount Saskatchewan is directly across the
parkway to the southwest.

Several factors make Polar Circus a popular route:
1. Size- The sheer length and sustainability of its pitches, particularly the upper
pitches divided into three tiers, the last of which is 100 meters of pure vertical ice, WI
4-5.

2. Access- The approach from the Icefield Parkway to the first ice may last all of 15
minutes. However, many bypass this lower easy ice to the left via ledges that circle
back around to the first real climbing pitch, a classic WI 4 that leads through a rock
band at the top. It takes about one hour to reach the base of what is now considered
the first of 9 pitches that make up Polar Circus.

3. Southern Exposure- Of course this can be good and bad. Good for warmth, not so
good on the upper tier where the ice starts to crackle and pop if you are void of any
cloud cover. The Ribbon particularly gets strong afternoon sun starting in March.

4. Rampart Creek Hostel- manned and open in the winter almost exclusively for ice
climbers/skiers. In the winter of 2007 they were having problems with their power
and water sources and were sporadically closed. Check ahead as there are no
other services within this area in the winter.

The lower pitches form early and the route sustains itself for some time due to its
location, altitude and topography. The upper three tiers represent 5-6 pitches of solid
WI 4-5. Avalanches from the slopes of Cirrus Mountain above are a serious
hazard, so be aware of local avalanche conditions. Polar Circus is situated just
south of Weeping Wall, and about 27kms north of Saskatchewan Crossing in a deep
gully. Park along the highway just south of Weeping Wall (no pullout) and head east
on level ground through easy trees towards the ice. As most climbers do, we
bypassed the first ice to the left. Ascend a steep snow slope to the left and then circle
back south and drop down into the gully and ascend to the base of the first pitch.

1st Pitch- 50m (photo)/ Represents a classic WI 4 pitch with easy climbing at the
start and then the pitch steepens for an aesthetic ride only to lay off again as you
reach a rock band hole you must mantle up and over. This rock does not provide a
whole lot for holds, just rub those freshly sharpened crampons on some rock.
Once through the hole, look for chains to the upper right.

2nd Pitch- 50m (photo)/ Drag the rope through snow until you reach the 2nd pitch
which is a much easier pitch at WI 3. This pitch could easily be soloed by competent
parties. The right line was the easy ice in 2007. Again, look for chains to your right
after you top out.

3rd Pitch- 40m (photo)/ Continue dragging the rope via a snow trail as the pencil
(or what’s left of it) comes into full view. At the base of the pencil is some more ice,
WI 2 in 2007, that can be easily soloed up to chains on your left after you “turn the
pencil” to the right. Get a good look at the condition of the Pencil pillar (photo) as
that is your “free air” rappel coming back and you could be coming back in the
dark. You will not want to kick the pillar with your crampons on rappel. It was in a very
precarious state in 2007. We just slid off into the darkness on our return rap.

4th-5th Pitches- 65m (photo)/ Continue to the right 200m and up through some
trees before hooking back left and crossing an exposed snow basin for 150m back
into the gully and then proceed up to the base of the first tier of the upper pitches of
Polar Circus (photos). Beware of avalanche danger through this area. I combined
these first two pitches of the upper/steeper portion of the route by having my partner
simul climb the route after I reached the end of 60m ropes. The top portion of this tier
starts relaxing at just the right time for this to work. I am not recommending this
practice, it is just what I preferred to save time and avoid exposure to falling ice and
rock from above. This is a sustained pitch that more than likely will take most if not all
of your screws. Once at the top of the first tier, head for chains above a small ice
ledge to the right of the Ribbon.

6th-7th Pitches- 90m (photo)/ The 2nd tier starts off with a pillar known as the
Ribbon. It was fairly kicked out in March 2007, but is still quite a vertical pitch. Voids
here and there leave it somewhat overhanging. We moved from right to left to avoid
these obstacles. As it ascends, the Ribbon kicks back into a broader curtain and is
easily ascended to the left for the 7th pitch. It offers more challenging climbing to the
right. You will have to make this station into the ice. The 7th pitch takes you to the
bottom of the 3rd and final tier of the upper pitches where you can feast your eyes on
the massive final and most challenging, 100m curtain. Place some screws for
directional and head due right for chains on the wall to the right of the base of the
3rd tier.

8th -9th Pitches- 100m (photo)/ Hope you saved your strength. Definitely the crux
of the route and where the WI 5 rating comes in. This is a massive sheet of ice and
lines vary from left to right. You can find sustained WI 5 to the left for the entire two
pitches via a hanging belay or take the easier road to the right which is sustained WI
4 with just a hint of WI 5 here and there and a more comfortable belay out of a
normally formed cave.

Start right and meander your way trending right. Some of this ice will no doubt be wet.
This first pitch steepens for the last 15 meters or so as you reach a small ice cave
feature which should be evident up the right side next to the wall. Make an ice station
here. This pitch in total is about 45m. The crux of the entire route is the start of the
final pitch. The first 15m out of the cave is the steepest, hardest ice. From below it
appears the next curtain above is more difficult, even overhanging, but once you
swing out of the cave and look up, the next curtain above eases off as it angles
back left compared to the straight section you are on. Put away these two 15 meter
curtains and you have defeated the crux with easy ice to the finish.

Descent
Take two raps from the upper tier. Do not use the belay station at the base of the
upper tier for your rap. Rather walk down the upper left hand side of the top of the
2nd tier and find some slings on bolts (2007) and this rap will take you to the very
end of a stretched out 60 meters to the bottom of the Ribbon. Use the chained belay
station you used on ascent and rap down to any number of small benches on the
first tier to set up a V thread and make an additional rap. 70’s might make it all the
way. Do not retrace your steps. Instead head straight down the gully to some chains
on your left. Rap down a short section and walk down to the top of the pencil (photo)
and rap off of some chains to your right. You will no doubt be rapping off of a broken
pillar. Be careful to slide off versus kicking into the pillar and possibly causing it to
collapse on top of you. This is a long free air rappel. Use a prusik backup and/or
fireman’s belay for those following you. Return your steps from there to the top of the
2nd and 1st pitches and rap off of their belay chains on the left. We retraced our
steps on the descent from there, but there is no doubt more rap opportunities off the
final ice to the bottom of the valley floor.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes (route goes better with 70’s), 12-14 Ice
Screws and draws (screamers), Crampons, Helmet, Warm Clothes, Headlamp
(long day), Full Shank Boots, poles for the approach.

Notes: A classic with Adam. Thanks to Kevin Craig for his notes. We had planned it
and just happened upon his trip report on the Vision the day before. As of March 1,
pretty much same as Kevin reported, including the huge thundering noice on the first
tier (I combined those two pitches by simul climbing on 60's) of the upper pitches. I
actually yelled avalanche to my belayer as I tried to pound a screw in. Weird deal,
same as Kevin, we heard it, I felt it on the ice, we saw nothing. My theory goes like
this. As I was bringing up my partner to the top of the first tier of the upper pitches, I
witnessed some small ice starting falling when the sun hit the Ribbon. The Ribbon
is adequately steep that small chunks of ice fall unobstructed right on the top of the
base of the first tier formation. I believe if you are below or climbing on the ice, the
echo and vibrations from this effect, due to the huge walls on both sides, are quite
magnified. Or at least that was the excuse I was looking for to proceed. All ice was
good, snow trails fast. The free air rap over what's left of the pencil, should be a paid
ride at Disney. Of cousre since I was with Adam, I got to enjoy it in the dark. He likes
his beauty sleep and needs it. Cheers.