Pine Valley Peak, 5.5, East-North Face

Lat/Lon: 37.33583°N / 113.07806°W- Click for Satellite Image
Pine Valley Peak is an objective offering quite easy access, even by Zion National
Park standards, albeit still obscure. It is located in my favorite section of the park, the
lush and high elevation area known as Kolob Terrace, southeast of Kolob Canyon
and northwest of Zion Canyon. Pine Valley Peak itself is hemmed in by Lee and Pine
Valley directly north of Tabernacle Dome and the Guardian Angel peaks. The Wildcat
Trailhead, located at a huge bend in the Kolob Terrace Road, practically puts you at
the foot of the peak. That being said, Pine Valley Peak’s somewhat precarious rock
condition keeps most scramblers disinterested despite the fact that Pine Valley Peak
is actually higher than North Guardian Angel, a much more popular objective and
one we did later in the same day. Working on sparse beta, we were looking for a 5.6
route up the north face and/or a 5.4 route up the east face. What we found was
something in between that involves a slabby pitch up the east face followed with a
steeper and much looser north pitch that follows a chimney system to easier ground.
The climbing is easy, with the trust in pro and rock, for the most part, void. Pine
Valley Peak has been described as a large “white Hershey kiss”. I suppose I would
have to agree with that assessment.

The name "Zion" meaning "place of refuge," was given to Zion Canyon by Mormon
pioneers in 1919. The park is comprised of 229 square miles of protected
wilderness and is home to Kolob Arch, the world’s largest, not to mention many big
wall routes. We set out to climb both Pine Valley Peak and North Guardian Angel in
the same day and found the going quite easy. We could have easily snuck in a 3rd or
4th peak with daylight to spare. There are no published routes up Pine Valley Peak
and you will find little if any assistance from the web (2007). I would not give Pine
Valley Peak an alpine rating as North Guardian has (II) since the approach is so
short and I would rate the climbing lower to mid 5th class on very suspect rock.
Using protection in this kind of sandstone is not sound. You are better off slinging
the bushes. I placed two pieces of gear via two technical pitches.

They have reintroduced a significant elk herd in this region. I spotted the herd
several years ago, about 45-50. I also saw, for the first and only time since, over
100 deer gathered together in this part of Kolob Terrace. I have never witnessed
deer gather in such a large group. We visited with the lone occupant in these parts
for many years before he moved to New Mexico and he told us of several mountain
lion sightings. This part of Zion has a true alpine flare, offering a great escape from
the heat of summer.

Getting There
Out of Virgin, UT off of state highway 9, access the Kolob Terrace Road on the north
side of the highway and start winding your way through and up beautiful countryside
until you enter Zion National Park. The color of the road actually changes to let you
know you are within the parks boundaries. As you continue north, the road will
venture back east. You are looking for the Wildcat Trailhead on the right side of the
road. This is a common trailhead as it is used for the popular Subway Canyon
objective. There are restrooms at this location.

Red Tape
You will not need a climbing permit nor do you need to enter the park via the kiosks
and thus pay a National Park fee to access the park. However, I always purchase an
annual pass to US and Canadian National Parks. If you are going to make more than
4 visits per year, I advise this option.

Backcountry permits are required for all overnight trips in Zion National Park,
including climbing bivouacs. Reservations are available for many backcountry trips in
the park. A reservation does not guarantee that you will receive a permit. Reasons
that a permit will be denied include high water, flash flood warnings, and wildland
fires. Depending upon the backcountry zone, 40%-60% of the total number of
backcountry permits are available through reservations. The remainder of permits
are available as walk-in permits.

My favorite place for dinner in Springdale is the outdoor patio at Oscars. It also
appears to be the local’s favorite. Most of the staff is into climbing as well, so it is a
great place to plan your next climbing day and maybe even pick up a partner. Ask for
Zach. The Mean Bean across from Oscars is one of my favorite independent coffee
houses period. Ask for Joe.

When to Climb
Summer days are hot (95-110°F), but overnight lows are usually comfortable (65-70°
F). Climbing in the middle of the day during the summer in southern Utah is not
recommended. Carry plenty of water regardless. Afternoon thunderstorms are
common from mid-July through mid-September. Storms may produce waterfalls as
well as flash floods. Sandstone is weak when wet, so avoid climbing in damp
areas or right after a rain. I climbed Pine Valley Peak in May, 2007 and we were
snowed on (lightly) most of the day. You start at a much higher elevation than most
objectives within the park. I highly recommend reserving Pine Valley Peak and
neighboring objectives for the heat of summer. Avoid them for sure when the rock is
wet. Winter in Zion Canyon is fairly mild. Winter storms can bring rain or light snow to
Zion Canyon and much heavier snow in the higher elevations, i.e. Kolob Terrace.
Clear days may become quite warm, reaching 60°F; nights are often in the 20s and
30s. Zion roads are plowed, except the Kolob Terrace road, which is closed in
winter.

Camping/Lodging
There is at least one BLM campsite on Kolob Terrace road before you get to the
National Park Boundary. There are two great campsites inside Zion’s south
entrance. I have stayed at the South Campground just inside the gates. The scenic
spots are on the North Fork of the Virgin River. This is a first come, first serve
campground via self registration of $16 per night in 2005. This is a popular park
however and I advise booking a site ahead of time at Watchman Campground if you
think you are going during a popular period. Facilities include restrooms, drinking
water, picnic tables, fire grates, RV dump stations. No showers are available at
these park campsites but are available at an in town private facility for a fee. There is
also a 6-site primitive campground called Lava Point, no water, no fee, and it is not
open all year.

Springdale has tons of lodging options as well including a privately owned
campground right before the entrance to Zion National Park. If you demand the
luxuries of town, I recommend Majestic View Lodge. I have stayed here on several
occasions and the rooms are first class with great views. There is also the privately
run Zion Lodge which is in the heart of the park.

It is actually “illegal” in Zion to camp at the base of a climbing wall or in your
vehicle

Route
Pine Valley Peak is only a 500’+/- net gain from the Wildcat Trailhead parking area
with a insignificant loss in between as you cross Pine Valley. After Climbing Magazine
did a spread (Earth, Wind and Rubble) on the alpine ridge climbs of Zion, I set out to
pepper the featured climbs as breaks between the more technical cragging I was
doing in the area. With West Temple, III, 5.8 and Cowboy Ridge, III, 5.7 completed the
previous weeks, we set out to tag North Guardian Angel, II, 5.6 and combined it with
this obscure objective, Pine Valley Peak, to make it a decent day out. Pine Valley
Peak definitely catches one's eye as you drive along the Kolob Terrace Road
heading north. I had noticed it several years before as it served as the backdrop for
the reintroduced elk to this area. Despite its close proximately to the trailhead and
thus road, there is little if any published beta on reaching its summit. Pine Valley
Peak is obscure from the perspective that it is not much of a challenge for climbers
and too difficult for most scramblers, not to mention that the risk via its loose and
crumbly rock is not worth the reward typically. But to die hard peak baggers, don’t let
that stand in your way.

From the Wildcat Trailhead, follow a somewhat non distinct (we had snow on the
ground) trail south as it dips into Pine Valley and then bushwhack for all of one
minute to the base of the north face of Pine Valley Peak. Scramble up easy terrain
until you meet a steep wall. The easiest route up Pine Valley Peak is to circumvent
this section to the east (left) until you reach a low angled slab. This is the first pitch of
5th class.

The crux of the slab is the start (run out). Several options exist, but if the rock is wet in
the least bit, be careful on this section. Move left at the first opportunity via thin ledges
and indentations until you are lined up with features above, including a decent crack,
and head straight up for a full pitch 55-60 meters to a tree with a new sling (we
placed in 2007). You can just drag the ropes up a scramble section above the tree
until you reach the next pitch.

Turn left and face a steep north face section that follows a chimney of sorts to trees
above. Most of this rock is really just compacted sand. Take a corner to the right, by
protecting yourself with a bush at its base, and either move out on top of its exposed
mini arête or pull yourself awkwardly up the corner with no option for real pro. This is
a short step in any regard. Continue up easy ground protecting via another bush (I
trust the bushes more than the rock here) and gain the left side of a chimney. Again,
nothing but compacted sand, so be light footed as you ascend the left side of this
chimney and then traverse back left across a slab and move up right past a large
tree with a new rap sling (we placed in 2007). I knocked a sizable part of this
chimney off without full body weight. Take care on this short section. Continue up
to even a larger tree to bring up the 2nd on belay. Leave the ropes and continue on
the left side of the ridge to the final summit block. Circumvent back right (west) until
you can walk up to the final summit. There was no register in 2007 and very little
evidence of any recent ascent. The two rap slings we found were quite ancient.

Descent
Just two raps. We placed new webbing in 2007. The tree covering the steep north
face section takes a one rope rap. The tree covering the slab on the east face takes a
two rope rap. Return the same or continue northwest to intersect the Wildcat Trail
which will take you to the North Guardian Angel.

Essential Gear
Double ropes are preferred for the 2nd rappel. You could fix something half way
down if you needed I would imagine. The tree versus the bush option takes two
ropes. I only placed one piece of gear worth anything, a #4 Metolius cam in a crack
on the first pitch. No need for taking much, the bushes are better than the compacted
sand for pro. Climbing shoes help with the start of the slab, otherwise, boots would
be adequate. If dry, I would just go with a light pair of boots. Half dozen runners, at
least two long ones, should do the job. This is a short route, so you don’t need much
water.