August 26, 2006 10,354' Gain- 3200'+/- Day Trip West Ridge, II, 5.4 via Pigeon Fork
Lat/Lon: 50.73194°N / 116.79111°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP Pigeon Spire is located in Bugaboo Provincial Park, (33,700+ acres) home of several legendary granite spires. Bugaboo (Glacier) Provincial Park is part of the Bugaboo Alpine Provincial Recreation Area located in the Purcell Mountain Range of British Columbia. The Purcells parallel the Canadian Rockies on the western side. Pigeon Spire divides the Bugaboo and Vowell Glaciers guarding the approach to the famed Howser Towers. It is one of three that make up the “Central Spires” (Pigeon, Bugaboo and Snowpatch), the most common objectives in the park. The central spires each stand isolated by large glaciers with no connecting ridges. This stark contrast of black rock against white snow and ice is what contributes to this park being a climber-photographer’s dream. Pigeon Spire could easily be considered the most aesthetic of the Bugaboo Spires. From any angle, it appears to show off its black sharp walls as they contrast the glacier terrain. Yet its summit is one of the most accessible climbs in the Bugaboos by way of the classic and most popular West Ridge route. What can make it a much more appealing route is the optional, but rarely traveled, Pigeon Fork-Bugaboo Glacier approach traversing its much steeper east and south faces. Droves of climbers/visitors prefer to use the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col approach to avoid the more technical glacier travel.
While the West Ridge can resemble a human highway in peak season, Pigeon offers up many obscure and rarely climbed routes. The following routes are featured in “The Bugaboos, One of the World’s Great Alpine Rock-climbing Centres”, an exceptional guidebook in my opinion put out by Marc Piche and Chris Atkinson:
West Ridge- 5.4/500m- I soloed this route and have to admit that despite its easy rating, it is a must do for any level of climber. It is obviously considered the classic on the mountain and gives up dramatic views of the much more difficult Howser Towers. It is given three stars (maximum) by the guidebook. Exceptional rock with the crux at the end, that can either be down climbed or taken in two short rappels.
Mechanized bolting is not allowed in the park, therefore, this is specifically a trad climbing area. The glaciers in Bugaboo Provincial Park are retreating as most in Canada are. The Bugaboo Glacier itself has receded over 3000’ in the past 100 years. The wildlife is still exceptional. We spotted a black bear on the road in and wolverine tracks on the Pigeon Fork-Bugaboo Glacier. The weather is more volatile than even the Canadian Rockies due to the park’s closer proximity to the Pacific Ocean. Rock fall and weather remain the two most dangerous objectionable hazards for any climbing objective in the area.
Getting There Bugaboo Provincial Park is located in southeastern B.C., between Golden and Radium Hot Springs, and west of Highway 95. Access to the park is via a gravel logging road, open late spring through late fall, that begins at Brisco, 27 kilometers north of Radium Hot Springs or 76 km south of Golden on Highway 95. You must travel 46 kilometers on the dirt road to get back to the trailhead. Watch for the small directional signs at intersections.
The trail to the Conrad Kain Hut is approximately 2260’ of gain spread out over 4.6 kms and the Applebee campground is another 820’ of gain from the hut spread out over 1 km. We made the hut in less than 2 hours; some parties took 3.5 hours during our visit.
Access to the northern portions of the park via the Vowell and Malloy Creek drainages is possible by leaving Highway 95 at Spillimacheen, north of Brisco, then crossing the Columbia River and turning left on the West Side Road. After traveling 0.8 km, turn right onto Bobbie Burns Creek drainage and drive past the lodge of the same name. Logging roads up Vowell Creek and Malloy Creek lead to semi-open terrain which can be hiked into the park. The status of bridges in inactive logging areas may vary in upper drainages.
Red Tape • Bugaboo Provincial Park is a remote area. Persons intending to visit the Bugaboos must realize there are no supplies, equipment or transportation arrangements of any kind available in the park. Hut accommodation is not available in winter because of avalanche dangers. • It is recommended that visitors protect their vehicle perimeter with a portable chicken wire fence to deter porcupines and other small animals from chewing on wires and tires. • National Topographic Series Maps 82K/10 (Howser Creek) and 82K/15 (Bugaboo Creek) are at a scale of 1:50,000 and cover all but the western limits of the park. • 'The Bugaboos - One of the World's Great Alpine Rock-climbing Centres' is a comprehensive and accurate guidebook to climbing and mountaineering in Bugaboo Park. It is written by Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche and published by Elaho Publishing (ISBN # 0-9733035-1-4). • Weather conditions can change suddenly in this area and lightning storms with hail and snow are common in summer. Only experienced climbers practiced in crevasse rescue and properly roped should venture onto snowfields and glaciers. • Loaded logging trucks and other industrial traffic may be encountered while accessing this park. Drive with extreme caution and for your safety always yield to industrial traffic.
Climbers should check with the hut keepers on current conditions and destinations before departure. Climbers are responsible for their own safety; rescue services are not readily available. Public communications services are not available.
When to Climb Although CMH offers winter heli-skiing for tourists, Bugaboo Provincial Park is primarily a summer destination for climbers. Despite the necessary glacier travel, the quality of the rock is what most come to Bugaboo for therefore the summer months are prime. Late August was when I climbed in the region for the first time and it was stellar conditions. However, Bugaboo Provincial Park is well known for its volatile weather swings and for the most part, your views from the west are obscured.
Camping Wilderness, backcountry or walk-in camping is allowed. Backcountry campgrounds are provided at Boulder Camp below the Conrad Kain Hut and on the bare rock slabs of Applebee Dome, 1km above the Conrad Kain Hut. A per-person fee is in effect at these campgrounds, payable at a self-registration station located inside the Conrad Kain Hut. To prevent contamination of the water supply and damage to the sensitive alpine environment, camping in the park is not permitted elsewhere in the vicinity of the main spires (Bugaboo, Snowpatch, Crescent, Pigeon, Howsers). Bivouacking is not permitted unless circumstances dictate its necessity. Wilderness camping is allowed in other, more remote areas of the park, such as the Vowell Group. Leave-no-trace wilderness camping ethics should be utilized.
Backcountry Camping Fee: $5.00 per person / night, for all persons 13 years of age or older.
There are hot and cold water taps in the Kain Hut. There are two pit toilets located near the Kain Hut for users of the Hut and Boulder Camp. There is also one pit toilet located at the Applebee campground and in the parking lot at the trailhead.
The Conrad Kain hut is a class “A” (pads, fuel, pots and dishes, running water) hut that sleeps 40. Reservations for the hut can be made through the ACC National Office from 9:00am to 8:00pm, seven days per week. The campgrounds operate on a "first come, first served" basis.
An on-site custodian collects fees for the campgrounds and hut (for those who did not reserve through the ACC office in Canmore) from mid June to late September. Tent sites and hut bedding must be cleared by 11:00am if you are not planning on staying that night.
Open fires and dogs are prohibited in the park. Ski tourers can book the hut from approximately mid March to May.
Route Description Pigeon Spire is a 3200’+/- ascent day from the Conrad Kain Hut. From the hut, we ascended by way of the more remote Pigeon Fork-Bugaboo Glacier approach (versus the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col). The glacier terrain is much more challenging and interesting via this route. You bypass a significant ice fall next to Houndstooth (photo) en route.
Leave the hut via a trail that leads initially to the Boulder campsite. Immediately pick up a faint trail that ascends up moraine towards the “Son of Snowpatch”. Once you reach the crest, descend south towards the foot of the Pigeon Fork-Bugaboo Glacier. We soloed up the right side of the ice from the drainage and did not feel the need to rope up until we reached the obvious crevasse area. Aim for the southeastern corner of Pigeon Spire, bypassing the dramatic ice fall on the right that serves as the Pigeon-Snowpatch col. Some snow remained on this glacier in mid August and we did penetrate one crevasse that was not seen. Continue through crevasses, moving ever so slightly back right. As you pass the Pigeon-Snowpatch col icefall the terrain will flatten and you will notice a large boulder straight ahead. Head for that boulder and then start your ascent on much steeper terrain aiming back left for a significant wind ridge on the glacier. Once you gain the crest of this ridge, you will need to move back right all the way to the southern flank of Pigeon Spire to maneuver around a significant crevasse. Several precarious snow bridges litter this crevasse. We chose the last one up against the mountain itself. Keep a direct line as you continue to ascend moving away from Pigeon ever so slightly and then circumvent with the mountain back right gaining yet another wind ridge that leads to the Howser-Pigeon col. This is where the two approaches meet up for the 500 meter 5.4 ascent of the west ridge. There is an open pit toilet at this location.
The ridge goes pretty straight forward. You never vary off of the ridge line but a few meters until the final climb to the summit itself. We started left and gained a large crack or two to ascend to the ridge crest. There are two summits. Solo, we did this route in 1 hour to the summit. There are parties who pitch out the entire route, but there are several locations in which to pass such. Reaching the first summit is fairly uneventful. Descending the first summit to the saddle with the second summit looks intimidating, but is rather tame once you are on it. Even more mysterious is how difficult the ascent to the second summit appears, but again, in reality, it goes fairly easy. There are several stark lighting contrasts making the rock look steeper than it really is, similar to a mirage. The coarse rock throughout the climb is of exceptional quality and easy to climb on.
You will come to another down climbing circumstance just before the true summit. I did these few moves in boots, but most, including my partner felt more comfortable in climbing shoes for this portion. Once down to this mini col, traverse left leaving the ridge crest until you are below an easy chimney that leads up to a ramp that is angled up right and turns left at the top of Pigeon, therefore, this portion will not be in view from below. You will pass one rappel station mid way up this ramp. This is considered the crux of the climb but is well textured for any footwear you deem appropriate. There are two summits, created when the real summit fell from the mountain (taking the summit register with it). Both are easily attained for cool photo ops.
Descend via the ascent route. There are two bolted (by hand of course) rappel stations. One at the summit and another on the ramp below. The second drops you right back down the chimney. Return the entire route from there.
Essential Gear 60 meter rope for the Rappels. If not solo, appropriate pro. Helmets and Glacier Travel Gear.
CLICK TO ENLARGE PHOTOS 1. Ascent- Bugaboo-Pigeon Fork Glacier 2. View of Pigeon from Bugaboo Spire 3. Howser Towers from Ascent of Pigeon 4. 2nd and True Summit from 1st Summit 5.Houndstooth and Start of Glacier Route 6. Precarious Snow Bridges En Route 7. Final Ascent of the West Ridge 8. Looking back at the 1st Summit 9.-10. Start of the West Ridge Route 11.On Approach up the Glacier 12. One of the Few Cruxes
