Orient Point Ice Climbing Area

Lat/Lon: 51.25056°N / 115.1625°W - Click for Satellite Image
Ghost River Wilderness Area (The Ghost) features some of the most challenging
waterfall ice climbing in the world. Its popularity is boosted by the frequent Chinooks
(warm temperatures and high winds) that keep the upper reaches above its ice
routes free of snow and thus safer than most routes deeper into the National Parks.
The Ghost was established in 1967 on the front range of the Canadian Rockies and
consists of 15,317ha (60 square miles) of raw wilderness bordering Banff National
Park to the east and north. Its mountains include Mounts Aylmer, Apparition, Oliver
and Costigan. The Ghost Valley actually entails a larger area that is more specifically
located approximately 30kms north of Canmore along the eastern border of Banff
National Park and east of the Palliser Mountain Range. The Ghost’s glacier carved
valleys provide for steep water runoff creating some of the best waterfall ice
climbing anywhere. Although Orient Point is not technically in The Ghost, this whole
area of provincial wilderness takes on that identity.

Ghost Valley is discussed as the South Ghost and North Ghost relative to climbing.
The South Ghost is divided into several different areas when discussing waterfall
ice: Orient Point, Devil’s Gap, Constellation Valley, Black Rock Mountain and
Johnson Creek.

Orient Point consists of 5 main established waterfall ice routes:
Hidden Dragon- 50m- III, WI 4
The Joker- 50m- III, WI 3
The Hooker- 200m- III, WI 5
Candle Stick Maker- 140m- IV, WI 5
The Real Big Drip- 200m- V, M7+, WI 7=BYM (bring your mama)

As you start to descend the last steep hill on the road going into the Ghost, there is a
pull out to the right, kind of a logging road that shoots off to the right. If you pull over
here, you can examine the Orient Point routes in one of two bowls on the east face of
Orient Point. The infamous Big Drip is in the left bowl (south) and the Joker is visible
in the right bowl.

Getting There
From Calgary or Canmore, access 1A which parallels the TransCanada to the north.
13.4kms west of the Hwy 22 junction in Cochrane is the Forestry Trunk Road (Route
940). Turn north on the Forestry Trunk Road for 23kms to a gated gravel road on your
left. There is a trail head information kiosk board here, but no obvious sign. If you
find the gate closed, it is imperative that you close the gate behind you. Most
climbers only take 4-wheel drive vehicles beyond this point, but depending on
conditions, other vehicles can travel the road. This rough road goes for another
17kms until it reaches the “big hill”. Along the way there is one ice/water crossing. If
this hill is muddy or icy or has too much snow, it can be extremely difficult to
navigate. Orient Point can be viewed to the southwest from atop this hill. This is a
remote area and very little exists in the way of facilities or emergency help.

Joe Josephson’s guide book, Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies- 4th
edition, references turning left at the bottom of the “Big Hill” as you enter the Ghost
River bottom. Present day (2006) you should turn right. Drive a short distance along
the gravel bank before you come across a cairn and then descend the bank into the
gravel wash. Follow as close as you can any visible tracks that circumvent the dikes
as you continue south and west towards Orient Point. Access a faint road that rides
up onto an east-west dike and turn left onto another faint road that continues south
towards a cut line road that leads up to the base of the climbs. Whether you continue
with your vehicle depends on how much ice is on this road and what kind of vehicle
you have. We parked in the gravel bottom and hiked up the steep cut-line road. The
road eventually dead ends into the trees where a trail continues southwest (left)
circumventing a slope on its left side on a small ridge. Eventually you cross a
drainage to the left side which leads up to several short pitches (130m) of WI 2 ice
(photo). Follow this easy ice into the north bowl below Orient Point where you will find
Hidden Dragon (low and straight ahead), The Joker (left), The Hooker (center) and
Candle Stick Maker (right).

Red Tape
The important aspect of the Ghost regarding safety is that you are on your own. You
are not within the boundary of the National Parks and access can be difficult and
long for rescue personnel. I highly advise you take a Satellite Phone (for
communication with loved ones who might worry if you get stuck) and always be
prepared to spend the evening.

There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Alberta’s Provincial
Parks. Cougars and Grizzlies can be more common place in the Ghost than the
national parks due to its location on the front range. Take bear spray during non-
hibernation months. This can be avalanche terrain during the winter. Therefore it
would be prudent to check recent notices posted on the Canadian Avalanche
Association’s website regarding that issue. However, the ice climbs in the Ghost are
considered less avalanche prone than most routes throughout the National Parks.
The frequent Chinooks keep snow levels typically manageable in the Ghost.

Camping
There are no official campsites in the Ghost. Random backcountry camping is
allowed, but open fires are prohibited in the Ghost River Wilderness Area. However,
it appears that camp fires are tolerated or even allowed in the Ghost River Valley
around Orient Point. More camping information can be found at this site.

When to Climb
Waterfall ice climbing is typically a winter sport; however, I have explored the Ghost in
the summer and found climbable ice still in place, particularly in the Recital Hall
area.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time in the Ghost or surrounding area. Outside of the
parks web sites, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely useful.

THE JOKER, WI 3
The Joker is one of five established routes on the east face below Orient Point in the
Ghost, 60 square miles of raw wilderness bordering Banff National Park to the east
and north. Due to the fact it is no doubt the earliest formed waterfall ice of the group it
is the most popular as well. Even the best of ice climbers come out to get warmed
up on the Joker. Although having a reputation for being thin at times, I have seen it in
very full condition in late November.

The Joker’s neighbor in the next bowl south below the Orient is one of the more
challenging waterfall ice routes in the world, The Real Big Drip, V, M7+, WI 7. The
Joker shares the north bowl below Orient Point with The Hooker, III, WI 5, Candle
Stick Maker, IV, WI 5 and Hidden Dragon, III, WI 4. There are several short pitches
(photos) (depending on conditions) of WI 2 that gain you access to the bowl. Hidden
Dragon is at the base of the bowl with the other three, starting with the Joker (50m) to
the left, lining the center of the bowl above (photo).

The first pitch of WI 2 is a solid warm up (photo). Some choose to solo it, we
preferred to rope up. It was an aesthetic pitch in November, 2006. There was some
modern webbing on a tree that served as our first station. Switch leads and conquer
a short steep section to snow and ice above that lead to a rocky plateau where the
ice routes above come into full view. Put the ropes up and ascend west towards the
Joker.

We arrived at the base of the Joker on its left shoulder. There was a thin film of ice on
rock that we used to cross some precarious rock bands to get onto snow and ice at
the base. If not for this thin film of ice, I would advise that you climb some
waterfall ice between Hidden Dragon and the Joker to access the base of the
route. You definitely need 60 meter ropes. Although it appears you might be able
to belay from the very left corner of the rock and ice, there isn’t much of a
platform there. It is best to belay below a large roof on the right. The ice tends to
fall climbers left.

From the belay, move out left and start climbing the ice to the base of the curtain. Left
is easier, right is a little more difficult. We found some hollow ice right and moved left
early. As you progress up the route, you end up back in the middle of the Joker
enjoying the better ice. Ascend straight up angling right towards the end to reach a
one bolt/one piton station in the rock to the upper right of the fall. There is a short
waterfall piece further up that is not part of the route.

Descent
After the two rope Joker rappel, return the same and set up a V-thread to rappel back
to the tree station. One rope will serve for both of these short rappels back to the trail.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 8-10 Ice Screws and Draws, Crampons,
Helmet, Warm Clothes, Full Shank Boots, 4W Drive (Preferable), Satellite Phone and
Shovel