Mount Norquay Scramble and Escargo Corner, 5.7

Lat/Lon: 51.2°N, 115.63°W
Mount Norquay contains one of three main ski resorts in Banff National Park, one of
four connecting national parks located in the heart of the Canadian Rockies.
Norquay also makes for a difficult and exposed scramble to the “true” summit. It
was officially named in 1904 after the premier of Manitoba.   He had climbed part
way up the mountain 20 years earlier while he was premier.   Mt. Norquay was
actually first ascended to the summit by Greenham in 1917.

The only published route is the difficult scramble, which is exposed for several
sections.   It clearly sports a false summit high above the ski resort, but the true
summit is nestled further north among the Devonian age limestone mountains of
Louis, Cory and the three summits of Edith.   Mount Norquay’s false summit and ski
runs are clearly viewed from the Trans-Canada as you drive towards Banff.
Norquay’s true summit is not a ski hill.   Fatalities have occurred on this mountain
and rescues are common place due to its proximity to town.   Its summit, despite
its size, gives up a surprising glimpse of Assiniboine to the south.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come
in from Calgary.   Take the second Banff town exit and turn right towards the Norquay
Ski Resort.   Climb the Norquay Ski area access road for 6 km until it dead ends into
a parking lot on your left.   There is no parking restriction for this lot.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park.   This
pass is good for all four national parks.   If you plan many visits to Canadian
National Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass.   There are no
permit requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated.
There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the
backcountry versus the town campsites.   This can be obtained via the parks
website which is included in the camping section below.   Park headquarters are
located in Banff and you will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person.   We just had a grizzly fatality in Canmore, June, 2005.   A grizzly
approached my vehicle when I ascended Cascade Mountain from the same parking
area.   The Norquay Ski Resort summer caretaker had advised me of his presence
and it was an ironic case of being in the wilderness all day and finding a grizzly
back at the parking lot. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or
trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. I climbed Norquay in June and the route was in condition.

Camping
You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your
camping permit.   The closest camping is back in the town site of Banff.   You will
also be required to obtain your backcountry permit, if you are going to use a
backcountry site, which is separate, but can be obtained simultaneously.

Mountain Conditions
Banff National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel.

Route-Escargot Corner, 5.7
Escargot Corner is one of, if not the favorite, trad route among the local climbing
crowd in Banff National Park. This is due no doubt to the rock quality being above
average for the area. Its approach involves a few hours of hard earned elevation
gain and thus keeps the ardent sport climbers at bay. Positioned on Mount Norquay’
s west face places this route into the same objective range as the more published
trad routes on Mount Louis and Mount Edith. Escargot Corner is approximately 900’
involving 6 pitches of 5.6-7 climbing, not all sustained, but mostly vertical, very
similar to the Joy route on Mount Indefatigable. It was first ascended by Murray Toft
and Allan Derbyshire in 1980 and has since become a classic. You basically follow
two large right facing corners, sometimes in the corners (4 pitches), sometimes out
onto the face to a sub summit on Mount Norquay’s southeast ridge. This face
contains considerable fossils (photo) which I suppose lends itself to the naming of
this route.

If you don’t know where you are going, you can get lost on the approach. This is not
some “pull off” the road objective and there are quite a few different approach
options. Not that I recommend crossing the TransCanada on foot, but my partner
had been there before and thus I did not question this authority (Cartman variety).
Park at the official viewpoint over Vermillion Lakes just west of Banff (1.6km) (there
is a pair of Bald Eagles that nest here annually). To do this will require that you are
traveling eastbound on the TransCanada. Cross the TransCanada as well as the
high wildlife fence on the north side of the road. Proceed via animal trails north
under the power lines staying left of the west ridge. Hopefully you will find a cairn or
two and after an hour or so find yourself below a stiff scrambling section of course
rock (photo). Many parties climb this section, but to scramble it, follow the large
bush filled crack to the top. Be careful not to dislodge rocks on anyone below. Once
to the top of this section, traverse left and then ascend right until you can descend to
a boxed in gully of sorts that puts you right at the base of a clean looking face with
two right facing corners. For those of you who have done the Joy route on Mount
Indefatigable, this climb looks remarkably similar.

1st and 2nd Pitch- 100+/- meters- From the scree gully at the base of Escargot
Corner, start climbing a left scrambling type section aiming for the bottom of the first
right facing corner. If your belay partner remains in the scree, this will involve two
pitches to reach the first bolted station. Alternatively you can use a tree en route as a
station, following the traditional notes, making this two pitches. We simul-climbed
for a bit and combined these two pitches into one pitch.

3rd Pitch- 35+/- meters- From the bolted station, climb up an overhang in the corner
where there was a piton in 2006. This is one of two places where the corner pushes
you out a little. Climb up and over it on good holds to a small ledge, with bolt belay,
on your left.

4th Pitch- 50+/- meters- One of the crux pitches. Follow up the corner to a semi
hanging bolt belay on the right or a bolted belay on the left where it is easier to
stand. Although this pitch is sustained, it can be well protected which cannot be said
for every pitch on this route.

5th Pitch- 35+/- meters- An easy pitch up the corner below some larger overhangs
and a bolt on the right. Traverse right past the bolt to a two bolt belay at a huge block.
This pitch is not easily protected and I advise using a very long runner if one at
all on that bolt your traverse over to get to the belay station. Its purpose no doubt
is to protect you on the traverse.

6th Pitch- 45+/- meters- Continue up onto the face via a broken crack. Move left at
the end back into the corner until it peters out past a steep airy section near the top
and traverse due left to your last bolt belay. I was tempted to follow the crack
higher until I noticed the station to my left.

Descent
Scramble through ledges to the top and traverse right and down to find a large
boulder that had a rap chain threaded through it in 2006. With two ropes, we were
able to make one rap. There is supposedly another station if you only have one
rope, but I did not personally see it. I caution that you pay attention to your ropes as
this ridge can be extremely windy and you could easily snag a rope on the pull
down. We had a few minor down climbs, but for the most part followed the ridge all
the way back down to the TransCanada. There is a faint trail to follow most of the
way.

When to Climb
I climbed Escargot Corner in early May and it was more than dry enough. Despite its
west facing appearance, it seems to dry out quicker than many routes in the area.

Essential Gear
Full set of nuts and cams to 3”, maybe a large hex or two. Plenty of draws with
several long runners. Helmet, Climbing Shoes, Belay and Rap Devices, etc. At least
one 60 meter rope.

Route- Scramble
This is a 3300’+/- ascent day.   Drive 3 km further down the Trans-Canada from the
Norquay Ski Resort exit and pull off to the right and lock your bikes to the tall fence
on your right.   Return to the Norquay Ski Resort exit and climb the Norquay Ski area
access road for 6 km until it dead ends into a parking lot on your left.   Ascend the
ski hill to the upper lift terminal.

Continue behind the lift terminal straight up a rib of trees, with one small rock step to
a col on the north ridge.   Proceed right (north) along the ridge, up and down several
peaks and through one crux (picture on main page) to the east summit.   This
challenge involves a steep, sometimes wet wall climbed by an exposed route on
the right side.   Climb up and across a down sloping ledge that tilts to the right
toward an exposed drop off. Scramble left up a ramp beside a steep wall and
ascend this wall in the corner.   Even at a leisurely pace, you should reach the east
summit in less than 3 hours.   Do not be fooled by the large cairn.   To the west
sits the true summit.   Lose some hard earned elevation here to the next col and
proceed up the right hand skyline, avoiding the (snow covered or not) gully on your
right (picture above).   This final east ridge is hands on scrambling, confidence
and experience required.   Your views from the true summit include Louis, Cory
and the three summits of Edith as well as a surprisingly nice view of Assiniboine for
this height.

On descent, return to the col and take the drainage all the way back to Trans-
Canada.   If parking bikes here, you are about 3 km from the second Banff exit.
There is no trail on this descent, but it is straightforward. Just travel southeast
towards the road. I saw one ewe (mountain sheep) and heard one marmot.   The
wildflowers were doing great on this slope in June.   The large scree and boulders
were hard on the feet, but made for a rapid descent.

Essential Gear-     Helmet, Bear Spray, Gaiters for Descent

Trip Report
I made this summit and return in a record setting 4 hours. Lightning puts pep in
your step. The intention this day was a nice leisurely climb with friends. However,
because we were all having such a great visit, when we reached the east summit,
everybody failed to notice that we had not reached the true summit!   We
retreated all the way back to the col above the ski resort before we noticed our
error.   Storm clouds were forming and I was on my own if I wanted to head back
and complete the climb.   It took me 20 minutes to get back to the east summit and
50 minutes total to reach the west summit.   These are not anywhere close to
normal times.   I was booking to avoid the weather. On retreat I chose the drainage
below the col between the west and east summit and had my loyal Land Rover
cabbie service pick me up on the Trans-Canada.   Cheers!