Murchison Falls, III, WI 4+

Lat/Lon: 51.93333°N / 116.675°W- Click for Satellite Image
Mount Murchison is best known for its coveted ice routes located in three large
cirques on its western flank, most popular of which is Murchison Falls, III, WI 4+. Give
Mount Murchison another 64’ in elevation and it would become less obscure along
the Icefields Parkway in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national parks
making up the central Canadian Rockies. Much of the native population originally
believed Mount Murchison to be the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. Mount
Murchison was one of the early mountains named by James Hector in 1858 after a
geologist who served as president of the Royal Geographical Society and assisted
Hector in the Palliser Expedition. The first ascent was made in 1902 by Collie,
Stutfield, Weed and Kaufmann. Mount Murchison has two real summits, northwest
and southeast, but its upper elevations are made up of seven distinctly named
towers, Engelhard, Gest, Feuz, Bison, Cromwell, Hall and Southeast, all over 10,000’.

Besides waterfall ice routes, including the classic Murchison Falls, Mount Murchison
itself is rarely ascended via an obscure scramble route. A mountain of the same
name in Tasmania serves as the tallest mountain in the West Coast Range of
Australia. As of 2007, there are 18 published ice routes on Mount Murchison ranging
from WI 2 to WI 6.

Routes Listed from South to North

Transparent Fool, 45m, IV, WI 5
Bison Falls, 80m, III, WI 3
Rip Off, 30m, IV, WI 4R
Jeu d’Enfant, 120m, V, WI 6
Balfour Wall, 20m, II, WI 2-4 to M7
Cosmic Messenger, 60m, III, WI 5
Imaginary Voyage, 55m, III, WI 3
Laughter in the Dark, 45m, IV, WI 4
El Coco, 45m, III, WI 4
American Revolution, 50m, III, WI 5+
Syndrome, 100m, III WI 6
Aboriginal Genocide, 90m, III, WI 5
Transparent Fool, 45m, IV, WI 5
Alien Abduction, 30m, III, WI 5
Murchison Falls, 180m, III, WI 4+- You gain over 2000’ just to get to the base
of Murchison Falls. If breaking trail, it can be a tough approach. This is such a
common objective however that you will normally find broken trail through the
snow. Due to deadfall, skis are not recommended. We had it to ourselves on
a Saturday in mid-March and found the top pitch somewhat precarious, i.e.
wet and hard to find good ice. This 4th pitch was a full 60m+ of WI 4+. After
some solo ice, we completed the route in three long pitches including two that
required slight simul climbing. The route requires four rappels, all on rock
stations (if not buried). There are three published accident reports relating to
this route including at least one known fatality. More detailed route
information below.
Virtual Reality, 160m, IV, WI 6
Lessons of Oka, 70m, III, 5.7, WI 4
Zapatista Liberation, 90m, III, WI 5

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National
Parks on its way to Vancouver. As you pass through Lake Louise heading
westbound, you want to exit onto the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) towards Jasper
National Park. The Murchison Falls approach is approximately 10.3kms north of the
Waterfowl Lake Campground. In the winter there is no parking outside of pulling off
to the side of the road or what is left of it via the snow bank which is commonly done
for many of the routes on the parkway. This is a several hour drive from Canmore.
Warning: The Icefields Parkway can be closed sporadically in the winter due to
avalanches blocking the road as well as unsafe travel conditions.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in
Banff or Yoho National Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a
backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry
versus the conventional campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website
which is included in the camping section below. The huts are managed by the Alpine
Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club of Canada headquarters is
located in Canmore, AB; the Banff National Park headquarters is located in Banff, AB;
and Yoho National Park headquarters is located in Field, BC. You will drive through
the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-
Canada. You will drive through a kiosk area again as you gain the Icefields Parkway.
However, it is normally not manned in the winter.

When to Climb
I climbed Murchison Falls in March. You can obviously climb all winter and the
avalanche danger is comparatively low regarding Mount Murchison ice routes
compared to most objectives up and down the Icefields Parkway. However, I did
observe a wind loaded cornice ready to slide down the left side of the route. The
approach slopes could also present some avalanche concern. As of 2007, there are
four published accident reports related to Mount Murchison waterfall ice, none of
which relate to avalanches.

Camping/Lodging
The Rampart Creek Hostel is several miles north on the Icefields Parkway and
serves as a good base for all waterfall ice climbs in the area. Rates for dorm style
were $23-$27 in 2006. It has 24 beds and reservations are recommended. They
were having problems with water and power in 2007 and were closed periodically as
a result. It would be advised to call ahead, (866) 762-4122.

Mountain Conditions
The Yoho National Park and Banff National Park websites have weather, wildlife
reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks websites, Canadian Avalanche
Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel. Canadian Alpine Accident
Reports is also extremely relevant.

Route Description
This is a 3000’+/- ascent day. Murchison Falls is a classic route along the Icefields
Parkway due mostly to its aesthetics and length. As WI 4 and 5’s go, I have been on
better routes. Murchison is a popular route however and gravitates towards the top of
most tick lists. It is a four pitch route that can be done in three pitches if you solo the
first step of ice. The three remaining pitches are quite long and 70m ropes are
highly advised if you have them available. Murchison Falls is one of 18 routes
located among three cirques on the western flank of Mount Murchison.

Drive 10.3kms past the Waterfowl Campground on the Icefields Parkway heading
north and park at an obvious drainage. In the winter, you are basically looking for a
snow trail on the right side of the road. There are no pullouts nearby, you simply pull
over as far as the snow bank lets you. The approach trail covers over 2000’ in
elevation gain, meandering up the right side of the drainage via a decent trail, if
broken, across a few downed trees here and there. Skis are not recommended.
Eventually you break through tree line and Murchison Falls comes into full view to the
upper right and above the drainage.

Cover the steep snow slope up to the left side of the first ice step. There is a small
flat spot below the rocks where you can gear up. You have several options to ascend
this first ice. You can go up snow/ice immediately to your right which is the first ice on
the left of the first step next to the rock. This short vertical section is somewhat thin
ice on rock. There is a rappel/belay station right above this section and to the left
out of sight. Another option is to traverse over right and low and gain the good ice
and scramble easy WI 2 to the base of the first real wall bypassing the first
rappel/belay station.

Second Pitch, 50m-The first real climbing pitch has several lines to choose from.
There is a rappel/belay station to the far left in sort of a rock/ice cave. We chose a
center start but ended up traversing back left and built a station on a short flat area
on the left side. This is a meandering sustained WI 3 line.

Third Pitch, 60m- Taking the left side of the falls straight up and slightly back right to
the base of the crux and final pitch is an enjoyable WI 4 lead. It features short steep
curtains broken up with easier ground and finishing on a snow slope below the final
pitch at a rock station to the right corner.

Fourth Pitch, 65m- Joe Josephson’s guide book notes calls this a full pitch. I was on
lead, so can’t exactly say what was going on for sure, but my partner claimed he had
to simul climb 5 meters for me to reach the station. All I know is that I was pulling on
him for about 5 meters in a precarious spot of rotten ice and rock ledges. This pitch
was quite wet in March and is somewhat notorious for published accident reports.
Taking the center line, the fall was raining for the first 15m. You get a break at about
35m on a tiny step. Above this step the ice can be quite chandeliery. I saw evidence
of at least one bail here (v-thread). To find drier ice, I traversed right over a bulge
and was rewarded with somewhat improved ice conditions. This entire pitch is
sustained and can be run out if your screws are digging air. Continue straight up
and it finally eases just slightly towards the top. Place a short directional in before
you traverse right to a rock ledge and bolted station. The left side of Murchison Falls
was heavily corniced in March, 2007 and can create quite a bit of spindrift.

Descent
Rap the top pitch over rock and ice directly back to the rock station at its base, a full
60m rap. Watch for iced up ropes if the pitch was wet. Also be aware that ropes
have gotten stuck on the rocks on this rappel. Rappel down another full 60m back
to the left side (climbers left) and look for a wet rock/ice cave with a bolted station.
Rappel from this station about 40m to the snow slope below. Walk back to the first
step’s left top corner and do a short rappel from a slung bolder.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes (route goes much better with 70’s), 12-14
Ice Screws and draws (screamers), Crampons, Helmet, Warm Clothes (can be
quite wet and much colder than the temps lower down on the Parkway),
Headlamp (long day), Full Shank Boots, Poles for the approach and descent of the
approach (icy steps) are quite helpful and recommended.

Notes: Adam and my 6th route of a fantastic week out...well over 20 for the year..time
to get back to some sand. Little under whelmed, but we did the Eagle and Polar
Circus in the same week. They were both dry WI 5's, Polar very scenic, Eagle full on.
The last pitch of Murchison is the crux pitch and it can be quite wet in March. I was
rained on the first 15m or so. Little run out when this chossy.