Mount Kerr Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.5055°N, 116.5944°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Mount Kerr, not to be confused with the Mount Kerr in Jasper National Park, is
located on the south side of Kiwetinok Pass (site of my world renowned Pika
expose) at the west end of the Little Yoho Valley in Yoho National Park, one of four
connecting national parks making up the central Canadian Rockies.   It is part of the
President Range and is one of many scrambles that can be combined with a
camping trip designed to bag the President and Vice President (an alpine climb).

Mount Kerr was named by Ed Whymper after a railroad employee who helped him
with his Canadian Rocky visits back in the early 1900’s. It was first ascended by
Whymper guided by Bossoney, Kaufmann, Klucker and Pollinger in 1901.

The only published route on Mount Kerr is the easy scramble up its north slope/ridge
from Kiwetinok Lake.    Since it is such a long hike to gain the Stanley Mitchell Hut or
Yoho National Park backcountry camp site #6, it is advisable to combine this
objective with the alpine climb of the President and Vice President or other
scrambles in the area including Kiwetinok Peak, Mount Pollinger, Mount McArthur
and/or Isolated Peak.   Mount Carnarvon seems like a stones throw away but cannot
be accessed from this area.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National
Parks on its way to Vancouver.     Pass through Lake Louise heading westbound and
continue on the Trans-Canada entering British Columbia.   Take a right on the Yoho
Valley Road right before Field.   Drive to the end of the road and park at Takakkaw
Falls (1247’), the second tallest waterfall in western Canada.    The visitor center for
Yoho National Park is located in Field another kilometer or two west on the
TransCanada.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National
Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada.   This pass is good for all four
national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass.   There are no permit requirements to climb in
Yoho National Park, but all camping is regulated.   There is also a backcountry
permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town
campsites.   This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the
camping section below.   Yoho National Park headquarters are located in Field, BC
and you will drive through the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff
National Park on the Trans-Canada.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person.     I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September.    I climbed Mt. Kerr in July. It was actually pretty damn cold as I
recall.

Camping
The closest conventional camp sites would be the Kicking Horse and/or Monarch
campground(s) back east at the turnoff for Yoho Valley Road.   The closest
backcountry site is Yoho #6 just west of the Stanley Mitchell Hut. This is a great
camp site for this scramble and many others that are hard to reach otherwise.   It is
below the headwall to Kiwetinok Lake at about 6650’. Of course you can make
reservations at the Stanley Mitchell Hut as well by clicking on the link above.

You can go on line at Yoho National Park's website to pick a camp site and obtain
your camping permit.    You will also be required to obtain your backcountry permit
which is separate, but can be obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a
backcountry site like Yoho #6.    You cannot camp outside of the marked specific
camping areas.

Mountain Conditions
Yoho National Park has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the
parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter
travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely helpful.

Route
This is an easy scramble once you have hiked the 10km+ into Little Yoho Valley.
Simply hike west another 3km to Kiwetinok Lake which is the pass between
Kiwetinok Peak and Mount Kerr.    My partner took a dip in the lake (photo), I am not
quite that brave (watch out for the ice floes).

This is a 2500’+/- ascent from the campground. Proceed up a snow slope and/or
rubble slope left of the lake.   Head south and up to a modest ridge line and down
climb one short section and the summit will come quickly and uneventfully. We
actually saw a small funnel cloud touch a mountain peak. This is an extremely
unusual phenomenon to witness in the Rockies, but it was a stormy and rainy day.
Mount Kerr’s summit offers a great view of the northeast side of Mount Carnarvon,
which is a recommended and more challenging scramble on this web site. Our
views were quite limited otherwise.   There was plenty of snow and ice to deal with
for July.

After we bagged President and Vice President via the Emerald Glacier the next day,
we hiked out of Little Yoho Valley via the Iceline Trail for 12km which encompasses
superb views (photos). This made for a rather significant and scenic loop in Yoho
National Park.

Essential Gear
This is mostly a hike, but of course carry bear spray, map, compass and whatever
else you deem necessary.

Trip Report
Michael Thompson and I (and our support staff) took off from the Takakkaw Falls trail
head and hiked in the necessary 10km+ to the little Yoho campground passing by
numerous falls. As soon as we had our tents pitched, it rained on and off for the next
3 days. The next morning, we chose to do the scramble of Mt Kerr awaiting better
weather so we could tackle the alpine climb of the President and Vice President,
which Michael and I accomplished the day after. Cheers.