|MAY-2005 5200'+/- 9722' 9 hrs+/- Difficult-Solo
Although labeled a moderate scramble in Kane's book, I took on Inglismaldie on May 1,
therefore, was forced up a dry wall utilizing several 5.9 moves in mountaineering boots. This
was pushing my maximum exposure limits, solo. The ice/snow covering the easier route was
too thin to trust. The bushwhack approach makes an earlier visit more tempting, just know you
could have a hard finish.
Park .8K prior to the Johnson Lake parking area. There is a trail at this point that takes you NE
towards the Inglismaldie drainage. The bushwhacking up this drainage is not fun, no matter
the time of year. Earlier in April I started up the drainage, but was post holing in snow and
attaching mini crampons for a few ice ramps. Ironically a grizzly (well known grizzly area) had
made large paw prints making the ice ramps easier to get up. But this drainage is filled with
dead fall, bushes, snow and ice, therefore, after several hours of slow progress, I chose to
turn around and give it another few weeks.
On my 2nd attempt May 1, I chose to ascend the left bank instead of the drainage. I figured this
would cause me to have to give up some elevation eventually, but I also knew it had to be
worth it. It was. I climbed down a small rock band and descended back into the drainage after
approximately 2 hours, gaining a net of only 1500', but the going was much more tangible.
Once back in the drainage I continued to the base of Inglismaldie (3 hours) and turned right to
angle up and gain her SW ridge splitting Inglismaldie and Girouard. You need to angle right to
avoid the immediate rock band to the right. After some steep ascent, you land on the ridge and
it is easy going with nice views until the summit headwall.
Ascend the steep scree aiming for the left corner of this wall (2nd picture to the right). Snow
free, it is just as easy to ascend the ridge to the left. In my case, I actually climbed up and over
the far left corner section. Then I was faced with a steep dry section right above me (3rd
picture to right) or the prospect of using thin snow and ice to ascend further left. I chose the
more direct route, but this is 5.8-5.9 climbing with little if any room for pro if you had it with you.
I do not recommend this section.
The summit gave way to great views all around, including Assiniboine and company. You
have Peechee and Girouard immediate to the east. Another week or two and I would have
descended the SW face of the summit. However, avalanche conditions still existed, so I
descended back to my corner and jumped back over to the SW ridge. Once back in the
drainage, as soon as is feasible, hop out of the drainage on the right hand side and catch
animal trails back. I came across an Elk Carcass as well as was treated to my first Sharp
|CLICK TO ENLARGE
Top- Inglismaldie on
Left- Summit Photo;
Assiniboine, Gloria and
Eon from the Summit