Mount Indefatigable Trad Climb and Scramble Traverse

Lat/Lon: 50.65°N, 115.16°W
Mount Indefatigable is at the southern end of the Spray Mountain Range located just
north of Upper Kananaskis Lake in the center of Kananaskis Country, a provincial
park which encompasses over 4,000 square kilometers of foothills and mountains
bordering Banff National Park in the central Canadian Rockies. Mount Indefatigable
shares the range with several other objectives including: Mount Murray (bolstering
the northern end of the range), Mount Black Prince, Mount Warspite and Mount
Invincible. Mount Indefatigable was officially named in 1917 after a WWI battleship,
typical of peaks in this section of Kananaskis. The first ascent to the summit was
made in 1901 by Walter Wilcox.

There are four routes up Indefatigable. Two trad rock routes, “Joy” is a 10 pitch 5.5
route and “Shining Path” is a 15 pitch 5.7 route, are on her south flank. Joy was
published in the 1996 Canadian Alpine Journal. Mount Indefatigable also includes a
published moderate-difficult scramble traverse from the north to south peak as well
as a published hiking route to the summit of the south peak.

Despite not breaking the 9000’ barrier, Mount Indefatigable offers grand views into
the Mount Joffre glaciated region directly south and above Upper Kananaskis Lake,
the glaciated Royal Group to the southwest and towering Mount Sir Douglas to the
northwest. Mount Indefatigable basically separates Lower and Upper Kananaskis
Lakes to the east.

Getting There
Kananaskis Lakes is a large camping and trail mecca located at the end of the
Smith-Dorrien/Spray Lakes Trail (Hwy 742-gravel) south of Canmore, but is more
readily accessed via the paved Kananaskis Trail (Hwy 40). In either case, once on
the Kananaskis Lakes Trail (paved), drive to the end of the road at the North
Interlakes Day Use parking area. There are restrooms at this location. Pay attention
on your left into the marshy meadow for moose.   When I climbed the Joy route up
Mount Indefatigable in 2005, I saw a large moose in this area.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis
Provincial Park. This is active grizzly country however. Take bear spray. The descent
trail used for all routes is the Mount Indefatigable Trail and it has been closed
many times due to grizzly activity in the area. There have been numerous 2005 trail
closures in Kananaskis due to mountain lions and grizzlies. We just had our second
serious grizzly attack in the Canmore area for 2005.   Therefore it would be prudent
to check recent notices posted on the park’s website. The park headquarters is
actually located on Highway 40 (Kananaskis Trail) several kilometers south of the
Trans-Canada. Notices are posted outside if they are closed. This is a solid
information center with good staff and beta.

When To Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I did the scramble traverse on Mount Indefatigable in October, 2003 and
dealt with a considerable amount of snow on the mountain. I climbed the Joy route in
August, 2005 and had completely dry conditions up to the south summit.   It is not
advisable to climb the trad rock routes in windy conditions. Both are sustained
slab. Wind actually blows rocks down from the loose ridge above with little cover
below.   There are no published backcountry ski routes on Mount Indefatigable, but
you could skin up and ski the southeast facing cirque coming out of the north
summit. You would not be able to gain the summit or traverse the narrow ridge on
your skis.

Camping
There are campsites galore in the Kananaskis Lakes complex, backcountry and
camper sites. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas in
Kananaskis. Refer to the Kananaskis Provincial Park website for more information
regarding camping and/or lodging.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website I
have used. Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also
useful, particularly for winter travel.

Route-Joy Technical Rock
This is a 3300’+/- ascent day.   Joy is a straight forward traditional rock climb allowing
for great opportunities to build stations along a corner that runs up the south face on
slab to the most southern point on Mount Indefatigable’s summit ridge. It is ten
pitches long of mostly lower, but sustained 5th class. By Canadian Rocky standards
the rock is solid climbing, however, rock fall from above can be perilous. You worst
enemy? Wind.   This is not a route to climb on a windy day due to wind knocking
debris off of the loose ridge and down this large unprotected slab face.   It also is
not advisable to climb below someone.   When you move out onto the slab away
from the corner, which you do often on route, there is considerable loose debris in
varying cracks. The corner itself has some precarious looking loose blocks that
could easily be dislodged. We passed a team who was gracious enough to allow
such and I found I could not be careful enough. This is one slick piece of slab.

From the North Interlakes Day Use Parking area, cross the dam and head west on
the Three Isle Lake Trail for approximately 20-30 minutes until you are below the
large slab which is Joy (photo included), on your right, with large talus to ascend to
the base of that slab. This intersection with the trail was well marked by a cairn in
2005 and is also the intersection with a trail that heads down to the lake in the
opposite direction. Proceed up the talus at a left angle to the base of the slab
beneath a bottom to top large corner feature.

We soloed the first pitch and the remaining pitches did not vary much from one
another. There was at least one bolt and two pitons. Otherwise smaller to medium
cams, nuts and tri-cams did the trick. We did use larger cams on occasion.   The
smaller tri-cams worked well in several shallow cracks.   At the end of pitch 5, on
or about, there was a decent spot in the corner to have lunch that was protected from
objectionable hazard above. The station set up at that location consisted of several
large blocks and a significant crack into the corner itself at the top part of the
indention. On or about pitch 8, as the slope becomes steeper and the slab narrows,
you will pass a piton in the corner. I was at 30 meters at this piton and it appeared
from below that I could reach another bend in the corner that normally had been
serving up decent stations.   As I took off another 10 meters, it became apparent
the route really did not follow the corner that direction and my placements
appeared to be minimal out onto the face.   Therefore, I down climbed to that piton
and set up anchors there.   That allowed a long pitch to a good station opportunity
and one final short pitch (our 9th) to the ridge.

The ridge itself was incredibly loose and severe looking when I scrambled up
several meters to take a look at whether we should short rope it or not.   However,
once you ascend the first several meters, you find much easier ground that
bypasses the narrow slabby ridge on the right and eventually gain a chimney as
the faint path contours around north.   You turn a huge amount of the ridge by
continuing on the north side until you meet up with a grassy col which serves as a
great spot to swap out shoes.   You can start your descent here if you are not
interested in the south summit.   However, there is a cliff band to negotiate below this
spot. We continued on to the south summit of Mount Indefatigable which is
approximately 1000’ higher. We kept on the north side of the ridge and continued to
traverse until the south summit was in clear view.   It is best to retake the ridge here
with some fun hands on scrambling and then enjoy the view filled hike along the
ridge to the south summit.

The views of Mount Joffre, Mount Sir Douglas and their related glaciers and peaks
were outstanding. So was the view of the Royal Group in between these two
mountains to the west. You will see Mount Indefatigable’s northern summit and
connecting ridge to the north and this is part of the scramble traverse in reverse
direction.

To descend, hike back down from whence you came for a short distance to gain a
ridge on the north side that descends steeply onto a trail that leads down to the
Mount Indefatigable Trail. Take a right and travel approximately 3kms back to the
Three Isle Lake Trail.

Essential Gear
Helmet, harness, 60 meter rope, climbing shoes, diverse selection of cams and
nuts, more small than large and several smaller tri-cams, runners, biners, station(s),
etc. and plenty of water and clothes (accident report reflects overnighters on
occasion- some parties can take this route very slow as I witnessed first hand)

Route-Summit Traverse
This is a 3300’+/- ascent day.   Although there is a hike to Mount Indefatigable’s south
summit, the much better climbing trip is to ascend the north summit via a col above
the cirque at the end of the Mount Indefatigable Trail and traverse the ridge over to the
south summit. The north summit is 60’ higher than the south summit. My partner and
I performed this feat under four hours in October snow. The guide book discusses 5-
7 hours which is more reasonable.

Park at the North Interlakes parking area and cross the dam to the west. The Mount
Indefatigable Trail immediately ascends to the right. Ascend over 1000' and take a
left onto an unnamed trail and travel above tree line aiming for a col on the right hand
side of the north summit of Mount Indefatigable.

Turn left on the col and tackle the north ridge. During our ascent we had snow and
ice. My estimation is that this scramble is fairly tame dry, with the exception of
considerable loose rock as you ascend the north ridge via chimneys and gullies.
One of these gullies below the north summit is considered the crux of this scramble.

The north summit had a register in 2003. We were in a storm of sorts, so visibility
was not good of other peaks, however, I did ascend the mountain again in 2005. The
views of Mount Joffre, Mount Sir Douglas and their related glaciers and peaks were
outstanding. So was the view of the Royal Group in between these two mountains to
the west.

Continue along the narrow ridge to the south peak. There is moderate exposure on
this ridge traverse. Once at the south peak, you will observe several weather station
related items. There is no shelter however. Descend down the east side and at a
cairn, within 5 minutes, jump on the north side and catch a ridge back down to the
trail you came up on. This trail had bear closures and warnings throughout 2003.
This makes a nice short traverse.

Essential Gear
Gaiters and Alpine Ax in the Spring, Fall or Winter, Helmet and Bear Spray in the
Summer

Trip Report(s)
We got started on the Joy route late and were lucky enough that the party above let us
pass or we could have been stuck on this route for a very long day. A team has spent
an evening on this route according to a filed accident report. Get an early start if you
know you are going to take it slow. Going to the south summit after the climb was
worthwhile as it always is to top out. Enjoyed a large moose on the drive in located in
the marshes to the left. Great route to practice placing protection and setting up
stations. Grand day on the rock!

I also did the scramble traverse in 2003, from the north summit to the south summit.
So I can say I have attacked this mountain from several angles. It is accessible and
offers great views. A mountain with various routes to entertain good mountaineers in
bad weather and avid peak baggers in good weather.