Hemmingway Wall, Grotto Sport Climbs, Canmore, AB- Kananaskis Country
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Lat/Lon: 51.08330°N / 115.2667°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Hemmingway Wall is the only Grotto Canyon crag that receives morning sun.
Hemmingway features 32 routes of which only 2 require gear. All the routes are
single pitch and can be rappelled with one 60 meter rope. Hemingway Wall is
broken up into three sections, a left, right and center. The left side features the more
difficult routes, mostly 5.11-5.12, and the right side features some of the most
moderate routes of the entire canyon, mostly 5.9-5.10.
Hemmingway Wall is the first climbing wall on the left as you start winding your way
through Grotto Canyon. From where you parked, trek north up hill to the mouth of
Grotto Canyon. Enter the canyon by following the creek bed as it winds into the steep
walls. The trail moves back and forth from each bank. Hemingway is buffered on the
left by a swatch of mature trees. A myriad of short trails meander in and about
allowing you to clearly scope out the wall. The left side is quite a bit taller. The right
side features quite a bit shorter routes, but has a few full rope length routes to the far
right. The left is separated from the center by an obvious corner, that itself can be
climbed with gear (Little Canadian Corner, 5.8), but is extremely polished.
I have climbed most all of the routes on the center and right side, some good, some
awful. Hemmingway, due to how quick it is to get to, appears to be the most popular
crag in Grotto Canyon (definitely not the best) and therefore no doubt the worst
polished. I have been in Grotto Canyon when few if any other climbers were present,
but if they are, I always see them here first.
Route Description(s) ( Routes Left to Right)
Hemingway Wall Left
- The Importance of Being Ernest- 5.12a
- Death in the Afternoon- 5.12a
- Cracked Rhythm- 5.12b/c
- Chips Are For Kids- 5.11b
- Farewell to Arms- 5.11a
- Tropicana- 5.12c
- Success Pool- 5.12a
- Walk on the Wild Side- 5.11c
- Stone Age Romeos- 5.11d
Hemingway Wall Center
- Grey Matter- 5.11a
- Grand Larceny- 5.10c/d
- Petty Theft- 5.10d
- Falling from Heaven- 5.9/ 4 bolts past a roof to anchor (recommend)
- Zipcode- 5.10c
- Little Canadian Corner- 5.8/ Easy, but polished corner; gear to 3” to Falling
from Heaven anchor
- Lively Up Yourself- 5.10c
- Flake Line- 5.6/ A beginner lead, but a little loose
- Runaway- 5.10a
- Footloose- 5.11a (Runout)
- Run of the River- 5.10b
- Walk the Line- 5.9/ short 3 bolts to anchor that is shared with Cakewalk
(recommend)
Hemingway Wall Right
- Cakewalk- 5.9/ short 2 bolts to anchor that is shared with Walk the Line
(recommend)
- Oh No Not Another- 5.9/ (Runout)
- Yet Another- 5.7
- Layla- 5.10a/ seems easy for a 10a; 5 bolts over mini roof features to anchor
(recommend)
- Delilah- 5.11a/ one tough and bare move from Layla; only 2nd bolt is different
(recommend)
- Temptress- 5.10c
- Siren Song- 5.11a
- Nymphet- 5.8/ The longer routes to the far right make for good starters for the
day; 6 bolts to anchor shared with Scheherazade, track left side of small
corner (recommend)
- Scheherazade- 5.9/ 6 bolts to anchor on the right side of mid corner feature;
shared anchor with Nymphet (recommend)
- Lola- 5.9/ 5 bolts to anchor over roof at the end; last route on Hemmingway
Wall (recommend)
Essential Gear
The routes on Hemingway Wall only require a single 60 meter rope for rappels. If you
are not going deeper into Grotto Canyon, there is little use for trad gear. The few trad
routes throughout the first section are not worth it. The rock is pretty solid
throughout Grotto relative to the Canadian Rockies, but of course a helmet is always
advisable. Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies is the book you need. You might
get by without it if Dr. Topo has everything you need in terms of which routes you want
to do. As of 2006, Dr. Topo did not have the better routes farther into Grotto Canyon.
CLICK TO ENLARGE PHOTOS
1. Delilah, 5.11a
2. Hemmingway Wall Left
3. Hemmingway Wall Center
4. Hemmingway Wall Right
5. Nymphet, 5.8
6. Layla, 5.10a
7. Hemmingway Wall