The Headache, II, 5.10a, 3 Pitches, Zion National Park, Springdale, UT
Lat/Lon: 37.210278°N / 112.95444°W- Click for Satellite Image

Route Description(s)
First Pitch - 100’- 5.9+/ I suppose there is no 5.10 move on this pitch, but if you
are not a great crack climber than it goes harder than pitch 2 and 3. Start off with a
beautiful #2 crack, jamming and stacking off the deck for approximately 50'. Then it
opens up to more mixed terrain (photo above), but still utilizes good crack
techniques. You come to a mellow overhang you can turn on facial features to the
right or maneuver directly up and over to the anchor. A couple of biners are here for
those wanting to bail the route (2007). The roof of the 2nd pitch is directly above.

Second Pitch - 140’- 5.10a/ Known as the “roof” pitch, the 2nd pitch is the only
site of fixed pro on the Headache. One bolt exists quite a ways below the roof. I
cannot quite figure out its purpose as you have quite a few opportunities to protect
from that point until the roof itself, including protecting right under the roof with a long
sling which would be the norm. (above photo) The pitch starts out tame enough, not
near as difficult as the pure crack climbing up pitch one. Move into the corner under
the roof and mix cracks with facial features for a pleasant ride until you are directly
under the roof. Place a larger cam, #3 as I recall, and proceed to turn the roof to the
right. That move is not as difficult as the climbing right above it for another 40' or so
until you reach the anchor on a short ledge. This ground pretty much moves you back
into crack climbing. Make sure to use a longer runner on the roof protection.

Third Pitch - 150’- 5.10a/ Published as the most difficult pitch of the Headache,
several, including myself, see all three pitches as pretty close to equal in terms of
difficulty. This is the longest pitch, but starts out quite mellow with the crux moves
right below the anchor. Move up and right of the belay on easy ground getting into a
crack that takes you until you are parallel with one of two small trees (2007) growing
out of the vertical face. (photo above) Traverse left on unprotected ground into the
same crack the tree is growing in right above it. Continue up this crack with decent
protection. This pitch really eats up the gear, like 5 #2's, a couple of #3's, a #4 and
even a few stoppers. Continue up the crack alternating facial features with crack
climbing until the crack takes a relatively sharp left curve towards the 2nd tree. Pure
crack climbing up these last several meters below the anchor can be the most
difficult moves of the Headache. Keeping your balance is key as well as knowing
when to swing your lower body out of the crack. It is one of those body eating features
that can be difficult to protect at the crux moves.

Notes:  Sustained. Very nice line. I thought the 5.10 third pitch was easier than the
1st pitch, but then I am not much of a crack climber. But that does echo some others
comments at mountainproject.com. All the visits into Zion, just had not done this yet.
That last pitch does eat up gear. We took and used 5-#2's and found use for a #4 at
least once. Probably had our photo taken over 300 times. The buses must
communicate to each other or something regarding this route since there is a pullout
in each direction. This is a horrible line in terms of privacy. Take a piss though and
they start to scramble away.
CLICK TO ENLARGE PHOTOS
1.  Route Topo
2. -5. 1st Pitch
6.-10. 2nd Pitch
11.-12. 3rd Pitch