Ferns Nipple Scramble

Lat/Lon: 38.1451°N, 111.1244°W
Capitol Reef National Park gets its name from the “whitish domes” within its
boundaries, one of the more remote of which is Ferns Nipple. Capitol Reef is a
242,000+/- acre national park that was established to protect a 100-mile long wrinkle
in the earth’s crust known as a monocline. Ferns Nipple sits on top of this water
pocket fold. Capitol Reef receives few visits from technical rock climbers as the
quality of rock is not comparable to Zion to the west or Moab to the east. It is
comprised predominately of sandstone and varies in hardness from the soft crumbly
Entrada to the relatively hard Wingate. The Wingate cliff walls are the most popular
for climbing, as natural fracturing has created several climbable crack systems. In
addition, the hardness of the Wingate lends itself more readily to the successful use
of nuts and cams; however it can flake off and be very unpredictable. Capitol Reef is
much more popular for its hiking and backpacking trails like Upper and lower Muley
Twist Canyon, Halls Creek Narrows, Spring Canyon Burro, Cottonwood & Sheet's
Gulch slot canyons, Hamburger Rocks and Brimhall Bridge.

As I mentioned with Island in the Sky, it is favorable not to step on or damage the
cryptobiotic crust as it can take over 50 years to repair itself, if at all. Wildlife that is
still observed in the park present day include a tremendous variety of birds, reptiles
and bats, several different kinds of shrews, ringtail cats, minks, spotted and striped
skunks, bobcats, mountain lions, yellow belly marmots and red and gray fox.

The Mormons settled the town named Fruita which now serves as the main
campground and orientation area in Capitol Reef National Park off of Hwy 24. They
left several orchards behind as the town eventually was abandoned. Today, the
orchards are preserved and protected as a rural historic landscape by the parks.
They are composed of cherry, apricot, peach, pear, apple, plum, mulberry, almond,
and walnut trees. The National Park Service now owns and maintains the orchards.
You are encouraged to pick and eat as much ripe fruit while camping or visiting the
area. But if you are bagging it, they have volunteer payment boxes with prices, etc. at
the open orchards.

Two published guide books cover climbs at Capitol Reef. They are Desert Rock and
Rock Climbing Utah. Neither describe the Ferns Nipple route(s).

Getting There
Utah State Highway 24 runs east and west through the park. The Scenic Drive (25
mile round-trip) paved road begins at the Visitor Center (Ranger Station). Other dirt
roads traverse the park both north and south of Highway 24. Be sure to check current
flash flood conditions before heading out on these backcountry roads.

From Highway 24 at the Visitor Center, take the Scenic Drive road south to the Grand
Wash (dirt) road. Turn left and proceed to a pullout on the right side. Ferns Nipple will
be in clear view from this spot. However, keep in mind that my ascent and descent
are not considered the “normal” (easier) route. Check in with the rangers for
information regarding that route.

Red Tape
Capitol Reef National Park will request that you pay a US National Park fee ($5 for a
day/week pass, $50 for an annual pass) to use the Scenic Road. There are no
requirements for climbing permits. Backcountry camping is allowed and actually
free, but requires that you pull a permit at the ranger station in Fruita. Climbers using
chalk are required to use chalk which closely matches the color of the surrounding
rock. The use of white chalk is prohibited. Due to the abundance of prehistoric rock
writings, the section of the rock wall north of Utah Hwy 24 between the Fruita
Schoolhouse (Mile 80.6) and the east end of the Kreuger Orchard (Mile 81.4) is
closed to climbing. In other areas, climbing is not permitted above or within 100 feet
of rock art panels or prehistoric structures. Other areas closed to climbing are:
Hickman Natural Bridge and all other arches and bridges, Temple of the Moon,
Temple of the Sun, and Chimney Rock.

When To Climb
Climbing during the summer is very hot as temperatures frequently reach the upper
90's to near 100 degrees (higher and cooler than other sections of the Utah desert).
Carry plenty of water. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August.
Sandstone is weak when wet, so avoid climbing in damp areas or right after a rain.

Camping
The Fruita Campground is an oasis of sorts. Surrounded by historic orchards, this
developed campground has 70 RV/tent sites, each with a picnic table and grill, but
no hook-ups. An RV dump station is located near the entrance. Heated restrooms
are available. The nightly fee is $10.00. Open year-round, the Fruita Campground is
the only developed campground in Capitol Reef National Park and as a result
usually fills by early to mid-afternoon during the visitor season. They do not take
reservations.

The Cedar Mesa Campground is located approximately 35 miles south of the Visitor
Center on the Notom-Bullfrog Road. This primitive, no-fee campground has five
sites, each with a picnic table and fire grate. There is also a pit toilet, but no water is
available. The campground is open year-round, but visitors should check with the
Visitor Center for road conditions prior to planning an overnight stay.

The Cathedral Campground is located approximately halfway on the Cathedral Valley
loop road which traverses Capitol Reef's Cathedral District. Located about 36 miles
from the Visitor Center, this primitive, no-fee campground has six sites, each with a
picnic table and fire grate. There is a pit toilet, but no water available. The
campground is open year-round. This campground is at approximately 7000’.

Desert camping restrictions are much different than those in more forested alpine
areas. You are not to collect firewood or build ground fires. You are not to
pollute water sources by washing or bathing. You should always carry water
away from the source to clean dishes or bathe then strain out food particles and
disperse dirty water. Always use biodegradable soap. Never swim in
waterpockets; lotion, sunscreen, and residue on skin can quickly pollute water
sources that are not free-flowing. Camp within 1/2 mile or in sight of roads or
trails. Be careful that you are not camping in a flash flood area.

Mountain Conditions
The Capitol Reef National Park website has most everything you need including trail
conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, camping permit
information, etc.

Route
This is an 1800+/- ascent day.   We arrived in Capitol Reef with absolutely zero
agenda, having spent some quality time climbing in Zion and on our way to Moab.
Since I knew the rock climbs were nothing special, I asked the rangers for a sporty
scramble. They gave several recommendations and I went with Ferns Nipple. Only
problem was, they were out of that particular topo map except for their master copy. I
took a quick glance and headed out. When the day was done and I came back into
the ranger station, hair and clothes full of sand, etc. I explained to the rangers the
route I used and that I doubted it was a scramble. They concurred that to their
knowledge anyway, I had been the first to ascend and descend that particular
canyon. One of the rangers thought it was not plausible, but it is. The correct canyon
for a true scramble is off of the trail at the end of the Grand Wash road. I had a sense
I was off any route as I got into the climb as there was no evidence of past climbers
or scramblers. The route was not cleaned and many of the holds were breaking
away.

From the pullout mid-way in on Grand Wash road, head due south into the canyon.
You can see Ferns Nipple from the road (photo), but it won’t be in view for most of the
climb. Soon you are in the canyon wash with steep walls on both sides and a huge
splinter formation to the right (photo). You will possibly see other footprints here as
interpreters of some sort take parties back to the end of the canyon on the right hand
side, probably looking at petroglyphs. The wash ends abruptly into tall steep canyon
walls. Right before you get to the end of the canyon which curves right, there is
a slot break to your left. The lower portion of this route is lower 5th class climbing.
As you work your way up this narrow section, you will find several short problems to
work through. Finally you get to a section that is best shimmied up like a
chimney.   Move right out of this narrow section and you will be out on an open wash
area once again.

Maneuver left and down into the solitary wash and proceed south to the crux climbing
(photos). The canyon narrows and steepens once more putting you at the bottom of
fragile dark red sandstone. There are pockets up to your left and slick rock straight
up. I started left and traversed right using a pocket here and there to ascend
until I could get past the slick rock and proceed up easier climbing which
eventually breaks out on the upper plateau. Ferns Nipple is now in clear view to the
left. It is well flanked to the west, thus protected, by a steep cliff band. You either have
to ascend the north or south end. I chose the south end and broke through the cliff
band via a squeeze chimney and followed a wash back due north to the southeast
corner of the summit block (nipple). This last bit of climbing was quite fun.
Scrambling up weird slick rock type formations zig zagging my way from the
southeast corner to right below the summit on the south side. The last couple moves
were 5th class.

There was a summit register in 2005. The views are broad, all the way west to the
Escalante high peaks. On descent, I was obviously looking for the more traditional
normal route. From the summit I had studied two canyons emerging to the northeast.
I returned to the base of the summit block and continued that direction. At last I
actually observed a cairn or two and thought I was on track. I stayed right into an easy
going canyon and descended 1000’ until eventually I was dead-ended by huge
canyon walls, of the 800’ drop off variety. After maneuvering back and forth like a lost
mountain goat, I eventually circumvented my way back around the north end of Ferns
Nipple to the canyon I had ascended. Knowing I did not want to downclimb what I
had just climbed earlier in the day, I took my time and found a route down the
eastern canyon wall back down to the upper wash. From there I did downclimb my
route including the full body shimmy to start the descent from the upper wash.

So in the end I did a complete circle around Ferns Nipple and can’t quite tell you
what the normal scramble route is. But I would do what I did again, now that I am
more comfortable about the descent options. It was very scenic and different
climbing for an alpine inhabitant. I thoroughly enjoyed myself and it was no longer
than five hours return.

Essential Gear
Climbing shoes would be an appropriate extra for this route. Of course plenty of
water. In October the summit was blustery so suitable clothing. No bear spray
needed here, but a good compass and topo map would come in handy.

Trip Report
Part of our journey from Zion to Moab. This Fruita campsite is really nice. Tons of
deer. All the free produce you can pick and eat while there. That is a pretty cool
feature. I scoped out at least one decent bolted climbing route. Not much technical
stuff here, but not very crowed either. Ferns Nipple was fun. I give it 5 stars.