Mount Engadine Alpine Climb or Scramble

Lat/Lon: 50.87°N, 115.32°W
Mount Engadine is part of the Kananaskis Range named after WWI battleships.
(Engadine is also a famous tourist spot in the Swiss Alps). Kananaskis Provincial
Park borders to the south the four connecting national parks that make up the heart
of the Canadian Rockies. Mount Engadine was first ascended in 1956 by Fraser,
Gorrill and Hicks.

Mount Engadine is one of the less-frequently climbed peaks bordering Spray Lakes
Road. More than likely due to its tedious bushwhack approach and descent. But
the fact that you can do a full western traverse of the mountain makes it an
interesting objective. In summer conditions Engadine’s west-northwest ridge is a
difficult scramble. In early season or winter conditions it is an alpine climb. Its
summit gives up fine views of the Spray Lakes Reservoir and surrounding peaks. I
climbed Mount Engadine in June of 2005, but in early conditions with prevailing mini-
storms. My scramble, therefore, became a full on Alpine climb. No glacier travel,
but a 800’ steep hardpack snow ridge, some waist deep know on the final
summit ridge making a line along an overhanging cornice and a deep snow
descent through considerable avalanche terrain.   Without the snow, I am sure the
route is much more reasonable. There are no published alpine rock or ski routes
on Engadine.

Getting There
From the Canmore Nordic Center, drive 32 km south on the Spray Lakes/Smith
Dorrien Road (gravel). Turn right at signs for the Buller Mountain Day Use parking
lot.   You are guaranteed mountain sheep on the road and once in a blue moon, a
moose or two. Watch for hazardous rock fall on the switchbacks above Canmore.

Red Tape
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis
Provincial Park.   This is active grizzly country however. Take bear spray.   There are
no park headquarters on this road.   Kananaskis Park headquarters are located on
Highway 40 east of Canmore.    Any recent notices will be posted on the bulletin
board at that location. If they are open, check in with the ranger staff, they have tons
of beta and are always friendly.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person.    We just had a grizzly fatality in Canmore, June, 2005.     I do advise
checking with the park website link provided above for possible trail closures.

When to Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September.   However, I climbed Mount Engadine in June and faced full on
alpine conditions requiring crampons, alpine ax and gaiters.    There appear to be
no reasonable ski routes to the summit.

Camping
The closest camping is located back at the north end of Spray Lakes Reservoir
across the damn at random campsites located on the west shore of the lake.    You
cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas in Kananaskis.   Refer
to the Kananaskis Provincial Park website for more information regarding camping
and/or lodging.

Mountain Conditions
The Kananaskis Provincial Park website is a very thorough park website, including
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if
you are going to spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website
I have used.   Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is
also useful, particularly for winter travel.

Route
This is a 4100’+/- ascent day.    Cross Spray Lakes Road and hike Buller Pass trail
for approximately 1 km crossing Buller Creek on a bridge.   Before you leave the trail,
take a compass reading on the right bottom corner of those west facing slabs.   As
soon as the north west facing slabs of Engadine come into view, descend the trail,
cross Buller Creek to the south and ascend the steep forested slopes for
approximately 1000’.

Once you have broken tree line and are at the base of the ridge, contour to the right
ascending gullies and ledges to the actual northwest ridge.   The first portion of the
ridge goes fairly easily, keeping right for any obstacles. Eventually you come to an
overhang of about 7 meters.   It initially appears you have to lose considerable
elevation on the south side to bypass this obstacle, but in reality, descend slabs
for approximately 10 meters to find a step that allows you to downclimb the
overhang wall. Regain the ridge and enjoy hands on scrambling until the next
smaller overhang in which we jumped into deep snow on the north side.

Next you are faced with the crux of the climb in winter type conditions.   We
ascended 800’ of steep, wind swept and hardpack snow staying off the corniced
edge to the false summit.   With crampons, this ridge goes easy, without, it is a
tedious climb.    Once you gain the false summit, you will get a clear view of the
summit to the east.   Continue on through waist high snow and hardpack staying off
of the north lined cornice. The summit cairn is typically windswept and makes for a
good bearing.    We had a weather summit, so our views were limited to Turner,
Cone, Nestor, Bogart, Buller, and other immediate mountains as well as Spray
Lakes Reservoir.

As fog and snow engulfed us, we descended the south ridge to an angled gully
proceeding down the west face bowl.   Glissading in low visibility down this bowl
face requires caution as you traverse several bare slabs and minor drop offs.
Continue down to the center avalanche gully and glissade through avalanche debris
which loses elevation rapidly to tree line. Take your compass reading for the road
and after you leave the log jam at the end of the avalanche path, drop into a drainage
and follow it to the Spray Lakes Road. At times, you will be bushwhacking on the
right side of this drainage to avoid deadfall. Once at the road, you have about a 20
minute walk back north to your vehicle.

Essential Equipment
Helmet, gaiters, bear spray, alpine ax, crampons (if early season), goggles for
possible harsh winds and/or intermittent snow storms.

Trip Report
Had a partner from Australia this day, making this a non solo climb, which was a
nice reprieve. These June snow conditions, as reflected on the main page, are
extremely unusual. However, from the summit, I could tell it only got worse further
east.   Mount Bogart looked in full winter condition. The entire front range has far
more snow and ice than I have ever witnessed in June.

I do enjoy these wintry like conditions on scrambles as they serve as solid
preparation for more technical summer alpine climbs.   I can imagine however that
certain routes and mountains, particularly Assiniboine, might make for challenging
climbing if conditions do not improve. Cheers!