Castle Mountain- Eisenhower Tower

Lat/Lon: 51.3°N, 115.93°W- Click for Satellite Image
First ascended in 1884 by Arthur Coleman, Castle Mountain is noteworthy because it
is the easternmost mountain of the Main Ranges in the Bow Valley of the Canadian
Rockies. It is a "castellate" type of mountain in which the flat-lying layers feature near
vertical cliffs alternating with flat or gently sloped terraces which have been sculptured
by glacial and other forms of erosion. It sits east of the Trans-Canada Highway
between Banff and Lake Louise. Castle is one of the most photographed in the valley
and a favorite of local artists. It is also frequently climbed via the easiest of four rock
alpine routes, the Eisenhower Tower. It can be skied in the winter or scrambled in the
summer as well (over "easy" that is) via the beautiful Rockbound Lake approach.

Getting There
Drive to Castle Junction 31 km (19 miles for any tourist from Sacramento) west of Banff
via either the Trans-Canada Highway or Bow Valley Parkway (more Elk to be spotted
along the Parkway). From Trans-Canada, take the Castle Junction exit and proceed
east under a bridge (huge nest on the bridge houses an Osprey who has raised young
every year I have lived here) and turn right at the stop sign and pull into the Rockbound
Lake trail head on your left. From Bow Valley Parkway, Rockbound Lake trail head will
be on your right before the Castle Junction gas station.

Red Tape
No climbing permits or parking passes required except for the Banff National Park
pass itself. This is bear territory as is most of the Canadian Rockies parks. I spotted a
Fisher (of the weasel family) here which is quite uncommon. There are several Hoary
Marmots as well (very common).

When to Climb
Castle Mountain is listed in the three bibles of the Canadian Rocky outdoor enthusiast:
"Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies", "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian
Rockies" and "Summits and Icefields- Canadian Rockies Alpine Ski Tours". So pick
your poison, Castle can be challenged any time of year. You can attach crampons and
take on the rock routes in winter if you so chose.

Camping
There is a hut on Castle Mountain I have never been too. It is called the Castle
Mountain Bivouac Hut. It sleeps 4-6 and is located on the Goat Plateau below the third
buttress from the Southwest end. You can make reservations and/or get more
information from the Alpine Club of Canada.

Other Routes
I have only done one Alpine Rock Route on Castle. There are three others, Bass
Buttress Alpine II 5.6; Brewer Buttress Alpine II 5.6; Ultra-Brewers Alpine III 5.9.

Castle can also be scrambled by continuing up through Tower and Rockbound Lakes.
I have been up this way doing three other scrambles in the area. The plateau above
Rockbound Lake is magnificent and Castle is rated an easy scramble. This would be
an excellent day for the avid hiker.

Because of the wide trail ascending to Tower Lake, this makes a great back country
ski adventure as well. Again, if you have information to this route, add it please. It is 28k
round trip. Part of this ski is considered avalanche prone. The Canadian Avalanche
Association link is on the front page of this website.

Route: Once at the Rockbound Lake Trailhead as described on the main page,
proceed up towards Tower and Rockbound Lakes, approximately 2300'. As you flatten
out, you will come across a creek crossing. At that point pay attention for a cairn and/or
trail on your left about 70 m or so, then cut left and up above tree line. Continue
scrambling vertical until a ledge leads left for 75 m to a deep gully system leading up
to Goat Plateau and the foot of Dragon's Back (tongue of rock that juts out from the
base of Eisenhower Tower). This is the start of your climb.

You can ascend the Dragon's Back from a variety of starts. I have seen climbers rope
up for this portion, I have done this route twice, ascended the Dragon's Back from two
different starts and never roped up. There is a crack at the East end that is most
enjoyable. Mostly large holds of the 5.4 variety. Once on top of the Dragon's back, one
pitch, head over to the base of the Eisenhower Tower. The middle is mostly water worn
and continuously seeps. The climb is to the right. The first pitch takes you to a scree
bowl with a belay station. You will see several variations, but the best rock is continued
vertical right following the right-hand edge of the headwall to the summit. There are
several 5.7 moves, but we used running belay most of the way. About 8 full pitches with
running belay.

The descent: I suggest 1 rope for weight and the lack of steepness of the pitches. The
rappel is straight west from where you top out on the route. You will find 2 solid bolts by
scrambling down 5-10 meters off the Southwest edge. You can go right or left at
several locations on the ascent, I prefer to stay right. Avoid the water worn gully.

I climbed this route twice with different partners. The first time was 8 hours, the second
12 hours. So plan on variation in times depending on how much you are going to stop
and enjoy the views. My first time on it the weather was so-so, I know we were moving
along at a fast clip.

Equipment
60 meter rope, 8-10 runners with biners, a few chocks-stoppers-friends, prusik sling,
belay/rappel device, helmet, etc.

This is not a big wall climb, but for obvious reasons, you need to take a rack you feel
appropriate with. Remember, it is an Alpine II, 5.6 route. You are better off with one
rope vs two on this route. To each his own however.

Trip Report: Dave Edgar and I teamed up to climb Eisenhower Tower in 2003. We
took less than 4 hours from the parking lot to the summit.   We moved fast due to
inclement weather (Temple snowed in this day).    Early morning on the trail we were
treated to a Fisher (weasel family).   We had a great look at him. Very gray Hoary
Marmot on way up as well. A bald eagle soared and screamed from below to above
us as we were on the rock giving us great views as it caught the streams. And we
were buzzed no less than 5 times by search and rescue as they searched in vain for a
missing small aircraft.   An osprey is nesting and feeding its young on the bridge over
the Bow River. A golden mantle squirrel chewed on Dave's backpack as we suited up.
It was just a wildlife sort of day. We had a great view of Pilot Mountain despite cloud
cover.

Steve Fedyna and I climbed it again in July, 2004, switching leads. Enjoying the
weather and each other's company, we took 12 hours versus the 8 that Dave and I
accomplished. So plan on variation in times. Steve and I used 2 ropes for 60 meter
rappels, but I suggest 1 rope for weight and the lack of steepness of the pitches.