Mount Edith

Lat/Lon: 51.2°N, 115.66°W
Mount Edith (not to be confused with Edith Cavell) is one of the popular climbs in Banff
National Park, one of four connecting national parks in the heart of the Canadian Rockies.
Edith is located in the Bow River Valley just northwest of the town of Banff. It was first
ascended in 1900 by Collie and Stephens.

Mount Edith is an uplift of the Devonian age Palliser limestone, a 500 meter thick formation of
solid rock. There are four alpine rock routes on Edith and one scramble that can be varied
from one peak to a traverse of all three of it's summits, the highest being the northernmost.
It is a dogtooth mountain similar to Mount Louis to the north (my favorite rock alpine climb in
Banff NP).

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from
Calgary. Bypass the Banff town exits and take the Bow Valley Parkway exit. Follow the
parkway for .3 km west to a road on your right, turn right and proceed to the Fireside Picnic
area at the end of the road.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This pass is
good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within
one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb
in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit
required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town campsites. This
can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping section below. Park
headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter
the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person.

When to Climb
It is best to climb Mount Edith from June through September. There are no published or
obvious backcountry ski routes on the mountain. There are small ice routes located between
Mount Cory and Edith.

Mountain Conditions
Banff National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.   Outside of the
parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel.

Camping
You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your camping
permit. The closest camping is back in the town site of Banff, or if you want to avoid the
hustle and bustle, you can camp further down the Bow Valley Parkway at , Johnston Canyon
Resort and Campground .

Other Routes
South Ridge of the South Peak II 5.4- One of the more frequently climbed alpine rock routes
in Banff.
East Face of the Central Peak III 5.10b- This route takes the largest and steepest face on the
central peak of Edith via a very prominent water-worn groove that runs right down the middle
of the face. It is more of a big crag climb than an alpine style rock climb.
North Face of the North Peak, Greenwood/Boles III 5.8- Soloed in 1984.
The Kafir Strikes Back III 5.10c- Takes the prominent corner line all the way up the centre of
the face. This route is a sustained outing.

Route (Traverse of all 3 Peaks)
This is a 3700'+/- ascent day. From the parking lot, cross the bridge and obtain the Cory-
Edith Trial to your right. Hike 6 km along the Cory Pass trail to Cory Pass, which means you
will take a left at a fork in the trail and ascend a steep meadow area (some of the best bird
watching in Banff National Park).

Ascend Edith on your right from the col.    You have a north angled chimney to ascend and
descend going to the North summit, an easy scramble to the middle with one short exposed
section, a fun short glissade over to the col between the middle and south summit (where
you make your final descent), and the most challenging obstacle, (when full of snow) the
tunnel to the south summit which can make for some tight and slightly exposed climbing.

The south peak is the most difficult of the three. The route begins just below the center-
south peak col in a north facing gully. Scramble up steep rock in the gully for about 8 m
toward a narrow tunnel. The tunnel can be a challenge.   Once through the tunnel, work your
way across ledges to the south and intersect the south ridge.

On descent, return to the center-south col and descend back to the Cory Pass Trail. Avoid
down slopping slabs.

You have great views of Mount Louis and the Gmoser route up that mountain (great route!).
You are awarded a good view of Cory to the west as well, another common scramble.

Equipment- Helmet, Alpine Ax (looks good even if you don’t us it), Camera (great shots of
Louis, Cory and Fifi) and Gaiters for scree descent

Trip Report
I did the North summit of Edith solo in August 2003 and all three summits with a small group
in June 2004. This is a laid back meandering objective, 4 hours round trip for just the North
summit and a couple more for the middle and south summits.

In 2004, there was only a summit book on the South summit. I had signed one on the North
summit the previous year.   I saw sheep in 2003 and a well habituated white tailed buck in
2004 (in one of the most picturesque meadows in the Canadian Rockies).   In 2005 I found a
cat kill on an avalanche slope and observed a pair of Hairy Woodpeckers and a Mountain
Bluebird.