Diablo Canyon Technical Rock Climbs

Lat/Lon: 35.73528°N / 106.14639°W CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
We have visited Santa Fe and Taos, New Mexico on quite a few occasions during the
past 15 years. Most of these visits were completely focused on skiing. This past
March (2006) we had some sunny weather and were in the mood for rock climbing.
We set out to explore Diablo Canyon just 15 miles northwest of Santa Fe. Diablo
Canyon is jointly administered by the BLM and U.S. Forest Service and is fairly new
by climbing standards. Most routes were not established until the 80’s and 90’s.
Even though it is the closest significant climbing area to Santa Fe, most folks don’t
visit Santa Fe to climb, so it appears to be sparsely visited compared to our many
southwestern haunts.

The hard dark basalt of Diablo Canyon is similar to Devil’s Tower in Wyoming and
offers some of the best multi-pitch climbing in New Mexico. The cracks are the direct
result of lava cooling. The 100+ routes range from 5.8 to 5.13. Diablo Canyon is
divided up into four general areas with each featuring over 20 routes (trad and sport),
Winter Wall, Early Wall, Grotto and Coxcomb Crag. Winter Wall (obviously) offers
the best winter climbing. Its southern exposure makes it much more tolerable during
the winter months than Early Wall and Grotto. It features the 3-pitch Sun Devil route
(5.11b/c-1999-Bradshaw-Smith-Wehner) which has become a local classic. Early
wall is thusly named because it gets early sun. Grotto is a north-south canyon
intersecting Diablo further in (west) from Early and Winter Walls. Coxcomb Crag is
located further west from the main Diablo Canyon area.

There is still active route development galore. Despite Diablo Canyon’s basalt at first
glace appearing solid, it can be loose and chossy, particularly on Winter Wall where
the freezing temperatures at night and the intense sun during the day create freeze-
thaw cycles that are hard on the rock and thus the routes. Helmets are highly
advised, so is a double rope system for most rappels on Winter Wall.

Winter Wall
Winter Wall is the only area of Diablo Canyon I have climbed (2006) to date. It is a
300’ tall and broad basalt wall on the right side of Diablo Canyon (north). This
seems to be the most popular wall as it becomes warm enough to climb most all
year round. Most routes have undergone extensive cleaning. Winter Wall has at least
17 sport and trad routes up to 3 pitches in length ranging from 5.8 to 5.12d on the
“Cave”.

Early Wall
Named for its eastern aspect, this is a good place to start in the mornings during the
cooler months. The right side gets shade early in the summer. The best rock is on
the upper tier, which intersects the ground at Two Wheel Drive, 5.10c. The approach
may be made from either The Grotto trail or by starting left of the boulder field below
the wall. The left approach starts at the right end of a shelf that sits about 15 feet
above the arroyo. Petroglyphs are quite abundant on sections of Early Wall.

Grotto
The Grotto is a slot canyon trimmed out of the upper portion of the south wall. It is
filled with large boulders interlaced with fairly lush (by New Mexico standards)
vegetation. While it runs NE to SW the north facing wall is much higher, keeping it
shady for most of the day. The sun shines through both ends of the canyon during
the early morning and late afternoon respectively. Climbs in Grotto range from 5.8 to
12+. The rock is solid with everything from long and steep to short and slabby.

Beyond the Grotto is a small contingent of climbs. The Alcove is reached by following
a trail to the top of the mesa that begins just past Grotto. For even more routes,
continue around the mesa to the right. Exit Arete, a detached pillar at 5.11a, is 75
feet beyond Grotto.

Coxcomb Crag
The Coxcomb Crag is located about a mile down the main arroyo from Diablo
Canyon. It is named after the prominent array of basalt pillars on the far right end of
the crag that resemble the top of a roosters head. Coxcomb faces SE therefore gets
little sun during the winter months. Conversely, during the summer it gets direct sun
until late in the day, making it a hot destination even in the shade. Hence, the best
time to climb Coxcomb Crag is spring or fall. The climbs are relatively close
together in two major groupings making it easy to climb quite a few routes in a short
period of time. Coxcomb has at least 24 routes ranging from 5.7 (Little Chicken)-5.12
d with most in the 5.10-5.11 range.

Getting There
Access Veterans Memorial Highway (599) either from I-25 south of Santa Fe (exit
282) or off of Saint Frances Drive, NW. Exit onto Camino La Tierra road heading west
toward the Rio Grande. After about 4 miles the pavement ends and you start a heavily
wash boarded dirt road. 2 WD’s will not have a problem if this road is completely dry,
but a 4 WD can get you closer to the climbs. After a total of 12 miles on the Camino
La Tierra road you will reach the first turn off on your left used for parking for the
Diablo Canyon climbing area. The canyon to the west is obvious. You can drive your
vehicle over the cattle guard and up the wash to the cliffs if you have confidence in
your 4WD skills (sand). We did it no worries. They do have flash floods that wash
vehicles away. Supposedly it does not need to be raining anywhere close for that to
happen.

UPDATE: The road has changed during the summer of 2006. You have to make a
right turn onto Buckman Road. Camino La Tierra is paved farther out now and
starts curving left to a new development.

Red Tape
As before mentioned Diablo Canyon is jointly administered by BLM and U.S. Forest
Service. There appears to be very little regulation regarding climbing access,
camping, four wheel driving, etc. Flash floods and rattlesnakes are possible
hazards, but in no way compete with rock fall which no doubt claims more injury at
Diablo Canyon. The trails are not formally maintained and can be difficult to follow at
times, but keep in mind this is sensitive desert terrain. Diablo Canyon is only a mile
or two from the Rio Grande River basin and the wildlife contained within.

I had ventured too far to the east circumventing Winter Wall and disturbed
falcons who were nesting in March on the upper northeast reaches of Winter
Wall. Try to avoid the same.

Camping
Primitive camping appears to be allowed around the parking area. This immediate
area, as well as the complex Rio Grande corridor, seems to be a quagmire of private
and public lands. The main issue is to avoid camping in the wash for obvious
reasons (flash floods). Of course there is a full service KOA campground in Santa Fe
not to mention all the impressive lodging for such a small city.

When to Climb
You can climb all year round on Winter Wall. Coxcomb is really only ideal for spring
or fall due to the extreme temperature variations on the routes. Early Wall and Grotto
are best for spring, summer or fall.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION(S)
Winter Wall is the only area of Diablo Canyon I have climbed (2006) to date. It is a
300’ tall and broad basalt wall on the right side of Diablo Canyon (north). This
seems to be the most popular wall as it becomes warm enough to climb most all
year round. Most routes have undergone extensive cleaning. Winter Wall has at
least 17 sport and trad routes up to 3 pitches in length ranging from 5.8 to 5.12d
on the “Cave”. Winter Wall (obviously) offers the best winter climbing. Its southern
exposure makes it much more tolerable during the winter months than Early Wall
and Grotto. It features the 3-pitch Sun Devil route (5.11b/c-1999-Bradshaw-Smith-
Wehner) which has become a local classic.

The approach is simple, the only cairned trail on the right (north) takes you to the
base of Winter Wall. The trail meets the wall at Post Moderate. You can orientate
yourself from there.

Here is a listing of the established routes when I visited Winter Wall (left to right):

The Cave
Cold-Magnon- 5.12a/ Crux is pulling the roof. 13 bolts to anchor.
Neanderthal- 5.11+/ Crux is face climbing. 14 bolts to anchor.
Saplan- 5.12d/ Some quick draws are fixed. 10 bolts to anchor.
Clovis Hunter- 5.12a/ Overhang. 9 bolts to anchor.

Sun Devil Wall
Sun Devil Crack- 2 Pitches- 5.10+/ Ken Sims-1980/ The opening scene in the movie
“All the Pretty Horses” supposedly pans up to Sun Devil Wall.
Sun Devil- 3 Pitches- 5.11b-c/ Bradshaw-Smith-Wehner-1999/ This is the classic
route and tallest cliff at Diablo Canyon. The roof on pitch 2 is the crux.

Winter Wall
Kaboom- 3 Pitches- 5.9/ Jamming and Stemming on pitch 2 is the crux. Walk off
route.
Basalt Therapy- 5.10c/ Trad-Sport combo. Bolts provided for the thin sections. Two
rope rappel.
Grape Ape- 5.10c/ Technical roof serves as the crux, but is followed up by a thin
headwall as well. Two ropes for rap.
Highly Caffeinated- 5.10-/ Trad Route.
Post Moderate- 5.9/ The best moderate route at Diablo. Good place to get centered
on Winter Wall. Start is easy to locate at an old fence post. 17 bolts to anchor. Two
ropes to rap.
Highway to Hell- 5.9/ Trad Route to chains (seems more like 5.8 or 5.7 to me). Two
ropes to rap.
Original Face Route- 5.8/ Trad route with bolts over thin section. Again, seems 5.7.
The whole area might be rated a little high.
Blind Faith- 5.11a/ Good moves and daunting exposure on increasingly difficult and
sustained rock. Use long draws for the bolts under the roofs to minimize the rope
drag. The climb is 10+ until the last few moves. Two rope rappel.
Roid Boys- 5.10a/ A series of roofs. 7 bolts to anchor.
Old Sling- 5.8/ Crack trad route right of Roid, same anchor.
Vitamin- 5.9+/ Trad route that uses a hand crack through a roof.
Protein Supplement- 5.10/ Trad/Sport, 6 bolts to anchor.
Sunbaked- 5.10a/ 7 bolts to anchor, nothing special.

Essential Gear
You definitely want double ropes for this wall. Due to the daily freeze-thaw cycles,
Winter Wall is known for its loose rock, some large pieces too. I definitely advise a
helmet. Just need tennis shoes or sandals for the approach. Bring your full on trad
gear, the routes are quite mixed. There is better sport climbing in Grotto across the
way if you are not into trad.