Devil's Punchbowl, WI 4

Lat/Lon: 51.32583°N / 115.24139°W- Click for Satellite Image
Devil’s Punchbowl is quite remote even by North Ghost standards, thus the IV rating
in Joe Josephson’s guide book, “Waterfall Ice- Climbs in the Canadian Rockies”. It
would make little sense to climb Devil’s Punchbowl without completing Beowulf
which is a longer and more interesting objective. The first four pitches of Beowulf are
required to even get to the start of the approach for Devil’s Punchbowl. When arriving
at the base of the final two pitches to Beowulf, there is a small vertical ice step to
ascend and then a trudge up canyon for 20-30 minutes until it opens completely up.
Take the left fork and you are 10 minutes away from Devil’s Punchbowl. Two
perpendicular curtains offer easy WI 2 ice to the left and WI 4 ice to the right. These
options are all single pitch. I chose a decent line center right at WI 4.

Unlike Valley of the Birds and The Good, The Bad and The Ugly (GBU), Beowulf, and
even more to such extent Devil’s Punchbowl, see considerably less traffic. Part of
this remoteness has recently been enhanced over new rules regarding how far you
can 4-wheel drive it back along the Ghost River. Due to protected trout populations,
the provincial government has limited access beyond the first river crossing which
makes for quite the long day including a long hike in, long climb, descent and long
hike out. Devil’s Punchbowl and Beowulf are definitely more of an alpine IV
adventure considering this extra trek. Bring your headlamps and start early. You
might consider bringing a bivy.

Beowulf and Devil’s Punchbowl were in great shape in early March. The constant
wind seems to keep them both fairly dry.

Getting There
From Calgary or Canmore, access 1A which parallels the TransCanada to the north.
13.4kms west of the Hwy 22 junction in Cochrane is the Forestry Trunk Road (Route
940). Turn north on the Forestry Trunk Road for 23kms to a gated gravel road on your
left. There is a trail head information kiosk board here, but no obvious sign. If you
find the gate closed, it is imperative that you close the gate behind you. Most
climbers only take 4-wheel drive vehicles beyond this point, but depending on
conditions, other vehicles can travel the road. This rough road goes for another
17kms until it reaches the “big hill”. Along the way there is one ice/water crossing. If
this hill is muddy or icy or has too much snow, it can be extremely difficult to
navigate. Orient Point’s “The Real Big Drip- 200m- V, M7+, WI 7” can be viewed to the
southwest from atop this hill. This is a remote area and very little exists in the way of
facilities or emergency help.

At the bottom of the hill, turn right and do your best to follow a sometimes vague,
sometimes obvious, track along the right of the wash until it becomes essential to
cross the wash heading west and navigate further north crossing a well established
bridge over the river and continuing through some big rutts and/or snow drifts until
you come to a river crossing. An official government ban on crossing this river is in
effect currently (2007) and appears to be an issue at large. Look for signage to that
effect. It is regarding trout migration. Whether on foot or vehicle, cross the river and
turn left heading west following the river. At a forced second crossing (cliff) is GBU
(the Good, the Bad, the Ugly), a significant ice wall leading down to the river bed on
the right. Continue past GBU along the river via a road on the left side until even with
the next valley running north which is Valley of the Birds. Continue west on a road that
sometimes is easy to follow and other times looks like a rubble of rocks. You will
pass Burning in Water, Drowning by Flame, WI 6+ and the Sliver, WI 6 high up on
your left. Valley of the Sun, WI 3+ and Beowulf are two valleys side by side on your
right, Beowulf being the 2nd. At a river crossing back to the north side of the river,
start angling right for the left handed entrance into the valley that contains Beowulf
and Devil’s Punchbowl.

Hike up the shallow frozen creek as it bends back left and eventually exposes the
first two aesthetic hanging pitches of Beowulf, which look much steeper than they
really are from a distance. At some time, put on your crampons to assist with the
approach and continue to the base of the first short step.

Route Description
1st Pitch/60m- I combined what many would consider two pitches but is easily done
as one. Climb the first step (WI 3) left of center and walk to the base of the real falls.
This is a WI 4 30m beauty. The left side was better ice but less steeply angled than
the right. The right side was more challenging, but was quite wet and chandeliery. I
started right, but soon, detoured left and then back to the center towards the end of
this pitch. There is a chain anchor on the right as you top out. This can be a very cold
belay, so make sure to pack your down on lead. Also beware of falling rock whose
fall line appears to be the left side, another reason for taking the more challenging
line to the right if the ice is in better shape.

Middle Pitches- The middle ground involves quite a bit of hiking on ice. You will run
into two falls worth pitching out, but could be soloed as well. Neither are above WI 3.

Devil’s Punchbowl/40m- Eventually you come to a short waterfall step ahead
and to the right as the canyon narrows (two odd bird nests in the canyon wall on your
right- photos on Beowulf’s page). To your left is a 60m tall waterfall of WI 4 broken up
by a few steps. This is the finish of Beowulf. Continue beyond this ice up the short
step to the right and trudge up canyon for approximately 20-30 minutes until the
canyon walls give way to a broad open fork. Take the left fork and hike 10 minutes
through possibly deep snow to two perpendicular ice curtains. The curtain on the left
is WI 2 and the one on the right is more WI 4. I chose a decent line up the mid
section of the right curtain at WI 4. It is separated by one rest and then nice and steep
for the finish. Once you crest the curtain, the ice can be somewhat questionable. I
proceeded up the hill to a small tree and belayed the 2nd from there.

Descent
Once the 2nd topped out, I had him traverse to his left while on belay to the top of the
WI 2 curtain, cross over the top of this curtain to existing slings (2007) on a mature
tree on the opposing side. Rap the WI 2 curtain and descend as you ascended. You
will descend the canyon as you ascended with the need for at least one v-thread
among fixed anchors. Double 60m ropes are of course recommended.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 10-12 Ice Screws with draws and/or
screamers, Crampons, Helmet, Warm Clothes (lack of sun and heavy winds can
make this a chilly climb), Full Shank Boots, 4W Drive (pretty much a must to travel
far in the North Ghost), Shovel and Sleeping Bag, the Ghost can be full of surprises,
particularly in February where the drifts have started to accumulate. Many climbers
end up parking short of the Valley of the Birds and there is currently (2007) a ban
on the river crossings (by vehicle) necessary to reach Beowulf valley’s entrance
by vehicle. Poles and a possible 2nd pair of boots are handy for several river
crossings you will have to make on foot if no access by vehicle.

Notes: An extension of Beowulf, some whirlwind icefest Adam and I were having in
March before my departure to Zion for several months. Worth doing if you are
climbing Beowulf, not worth its own trip however. Devil's Head is right above you.
Could make this a cool multi day trip if the weather was with you and top out on
Devil's Head, would not surprise me if it has been done in the winter by someone.