Cowboy Ridge, III, 5.7, Mount Kinesava, Zion National Park
Lat/Lon:  37.19800°N / 113.03°W- Click for Satellite Image
Cowboy Ridge is a 3300’+/- net elevation day and over 4000’ total gain in up and
down elevation according to my altimeter.
After Climbing Magazine did a spread
(Earth, Wind and Rubble) on the alpine ridge climbs of Zion, I was contacted almost
immediately by several friends and partners who wanted to jump on these “anything
but alpine” ridges. Cowboy Ridge is most easily viewed from Rockville on your way to
Springdale, UT but also dominates the western skyline of Springdale along with
West Temple. Cowboy Ridge is aptly named as it is a wild and loose ride in
Zion
National Park.

As with most objectives in Zion, on approach you have the distinct advantage of
being able to view and study your objective compared to true alpine environs, but you
will pay a price if you are not watching your step. There is no distinct trail to the
southern end of Cowboy ridge and the
cacti are quite tenacious and abundant. You
no doubt won’t be packing an alpine axe, crampons, etc, but instead will be lugging a
minimum of three liters of water and if you are smart probably four.

Turn left onto Serendipity in Springdale. This is a privately maintained residential
road and there might be access issues. I know one of the residents on this road and
thus did not have to investigate access. It might be wise for you to do so if you use
this approach. Follow Serendipity to the left as it forks and ride up a hill to a dead end
where there is an empty lot on the right (2007) to park.

Route Description
We found no marked trail and just aimed for the highpoint of Cowboy Ridge which,
despite what many think,
is not the actual summit of Kinesava. There is a separate
rock band that protects the lower flank of the ridge. The quickest access through this
rock band is to
stay right and hike a rubble strewn soft ridge up to the top of the cliffs.
There is some resemblance of a trail up this ridge. Once through the cliff band
however the trail peters out.
Turn immediately left and follow the top of the cliff band.
If you continue up and straight, you will have to lose elevation unnecessarily to
access the south end of Cowboy Ridge. Continue parallel to Cowboy Ridge until you
are forced to dip down into a drainage. At this point go ahead and ascend to the base
of Cowboy Ridge and look for a wide break (ramp) that you can use to access the
ridge without having to circle around to the very south end itself. There is a
truck
sized round boulder resting precariously on top of the ridge where this ramp is
located.
You are looking to take the ridge to the immediate right of this boulder. Once
on the ridge, you will have approximately 2000’+/- left to go.

Following the ridge is extremely obvious, again, unlike being stuck below tree line in
alpine environs, everything, except the summit of Kinesava itself, is in clear view. The
ridge winds its way left (west). It is extremely loose and not well traveled. We saw no
evidence, trail or otherwise, of anyone else going up the ridge. The first unique
climbing item you come to is a
long (30m) and wide chimney that rides right up the
gut of the ridge. This chimney is all scrambling with one or two moves to regain the
ridge at the top. Shortly after this section, we broke out the rope for an exposed
narrow section of the ridge below a significant splitter on a steep wall to the left. You
can scramble through this section a variety of ways, but since I had the rope out, I
chose to climb a small crack on the right side of the ridge where I placed several
smaller cams. Once at the base of the steep wall with the splitter to the left, venture
into the wide “chimney like” ramp, climbing a
flake to the right and then move back
left until you are below a steep corner. Move left and up beside a tree on scrambling
ground that leads to the base of the only real technical pitch of the entire route,
a
handsome 5.7 splitter (as featured in a photo in Climbing Magazine) that is quite
exposed down the left side, like 1500’+/- directly below.

This splitter takes a variety of gear, I placed approximately 4-5 pieces, one below a
small roof problem and one directional above it to protect my move there. Once
through the roof, the ground eases back to scrambling grade. Traverse left to a
significant tree which should extend a 60m rope to its full length thus using the tree
as your belay station. Continue up left of the tree back to zig zag form and top out the
ridge. The views from here are very interesting. Mount Kinesava sits to the northwest.
It is a whitish dome several hundred feet higher than the highpoint of Cowboy Ridge
but shorter than West Temple further to the north.
West Temple looks deceivingly
close.
Between these three highpoints lies a lush (by desert standards) plateau of
cacti and brush.
An amazing assortment of petroglyphs can be found on a large
varnished wall between Kinesava and Cowboy Ridge to the west.
These are not to
be missed as it is a much finer collection than we are used to in the Canadian
Rockies.

To finish the climb and make a summit, descend Cowboy Ridge to the plateau and
cross over to the base of Mount Kinesava and scramble up the whitish dome to its
summit. Views extend forever including Mountain of the Sun to the northeast.

Descent
Due to a lack of poor beta, we were under the impression we were to descend the
ridge and we did just that setting up 6 sling rap anchors that previously were not
there on opportune trees.
The preferred descent is in fact a walk off via the east
face and will be much quicker.

Essential Gear
60 meter rope, small rack, half dozen sling draws, plenty of water, approach shoes
you are comfortable climbing 5.7 in, sun screen and sun glasses…..just think tons of
sun!

Notes:  Great times with Carsten from Oakland. I was patient with him on the up, he
was patient with me on the down. We screwed up on the descent but enjoyed the
experience just the same. Running the rope through cacti and then rapping was a
new experience for me. How fun! Really is a joy, something different to loosen up
and enjoy Zion from a less technical perspective.
CLICK TO ENLARGE PHOTOS
1.  Cowboy Ridge from 3/4ers Up
2.  The 5.7 Splitter Pitch
3.  Cowboy Ridge on Approach
4.  The 5.7 Splitter Pitch
5.  Narrow Section of the Ridge
6.  The 5.7 Splitter Pitch
7.  Flowering Cacti
8.  Petroglyphs