Cory Mountain Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.2°N, 115.68°W
Mount Cory is located just to the northwest of Banff. Along with its neighbor Edith, Cory is
a popular ascent in Banff National Park, one of four connecting national parks in the
heart of the Canadian Rockies. Two notable features distinguish Cory Mountain, a 300
meter vertical groove on its southwest face and a gaping, dark cave, also on the
southwestern flank known as “Hole in the Wall”.

Cory has a variety of routes listed below including a standard scramble. The lower
flanks offer several technically difficult sport climb routes on firm limestone, but none
universally published as of this date.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in
from Calgary. Bypass the Banff town exits and take the Bow Valley Parkway exit. Turn
right and follow the scenic parkway (90% of the time there are bull elk visible from the
road) for 1.9 km. Pull off to the right on a small shoulder good for two to three vehicles. It
is imperative that you are at the right spot, as I went up the wrong rib on this mountain
years ago and was forced to redo this route in 2005 to complete it. There are several
large ribs coming down from Mount Cory. You want the eastern most rib which is
identified as light-colored shaley cliffs with a deep ravine to its right.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This pass
is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks
within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also
a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus
the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the
camping section below. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive
through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. We have had an increase in activity so far in 2005.

When To Climb
If you want a dry scramble objective, it is best to climb Mount Cory from June through
September. However, I climbed Cory in March with snowshoes, crampons and alpine
ax and had a solid experience, although this does make for a more challenging
objective. There are no published or obvious backcountry ski routes on the mountain.
There are small ice climbing routes located between Mount Cory and Edith.

Camping
You can go on line at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your
camping permit. The closest camping is back in the town site of Banff, or if you want to
avoid the hustle and bustle, you can camp further down the Bow Valley Parkway at,
Johnston Canyon Resort and Campground. Further down the Parkway is the Castle
Mountain Hostel located at Castle junction.

Mountain Conditions
Banff National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of
the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel.

Routes
The Rocky Mountains of Canada South Book lists 6 routes:
1) South Ridge - Scramble
2) SW Chimney - II 5.4
3) SW Face (Moss Crack) - II F6
4) SW Face (Clockwork Orange) - 300 m - III 5.5
5) SW Face (right of Clockwork Orange) - up to 5.8
6) S Ridge above 1A Highway - short 3 pitch route with several difficult fifth class moves

Route
This is a 4900’+/- ascent day. There are several large ribs coming down from Mount
Cory. You want the eastern most rib which is identified as light-colored shaley cliffs with
a deep ravine to its right. In the winter, there is no trail to follow, but basically start
ascending due north. This rib will meander somewhat westerly in and out of trees. I
used snowshoes intermittently. A 3000' gain takes you to a lovely spot to enjoy lunch, a
small col of sorts between a bump on the left (actually directly over “Hole in the Wall”)
and the start of your objective to the right.

Attempt, depending on conditions, to traverse the left hand side of the route to avoid a
gain that you will immediately have to lose. There will be several up and down
segments on the ridge, but none as wasteful as this first one. This was a pleasant
climb mixing some hands on scrambling and post holing, sporting a fantastic view
during this section of the route. I met up with 5 ewes (mountain sheep) about half way
along during the summit trip. This is very active sheep habitat. Part of the ridge remains
windblown most of the winter offering up some remnants of nutrition.

Eventually, you will be upon the final summit ridge. Finishing this route in the winter
can be a dangerous solo. I chose to up climb and then down climb a buttress on the
right to avoid having to traverse an angled icy snow slope straight away. At that point
there was snow-ice that I climbed with axe and crampons to gain the partially snow
covered summit ridge. Weaving in and out, I took the ridge to the summit cornice.
Beware of the cornice, it could go either direction. If going in pairs, I advise taking a rope
for added comfort on the summit itself. Return is the same.

You have great views of Assiniboine, Bourgeau, Copper, Castle, Edith Summits and
many others. The summit was free of wind and the ridge full of it. The descent went fast
and furious. Neighboring mountains Edith and Louis are more fun and challenging, but
this is a more scenic day.

Essential Gear
Helmet and if Winter Travel- Alpine Ax, Crampons, Snowshoes

Trip Report
I have to admit that this was actually my 3rd attempt at Cory. The first, the wife, dog and I
went up the wrong rib, one west of the correct rib that leads to the summit ridge. The
second attempt was made in February. Cold windy weather moved in and I did not want
to be known as the guy who had an epic on Cory. Good winter trip though. I recommend
it.