Copper Mountain Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.2°N, 115.88°W
Copper Mountain sits isolated just north of the massive range (Mount Bourgeau,
Massive Mountain, Pilot Mountain and Mount Brett). Copper appears to belong to this
group but is cut off via the Redearth Creek Valley leading back to Mount Ball and
Isabelle Peak. Copper Mountain is also situated on the south side of the Bow Valley
which is the main transportation route in Banff National Park, one of four connecting
national parks in the heart of the Canadian Rockies.

Copper Mountain received its official name in 1884 due to copper being found near
its summit. It was first ascended by the Macoun brothers in 1885 (miners at heart no
doubt). A little bit of history tying Copper Mountain into one of the more famous
mountains in the Canadian Rockies, is that Mount Assiniboine was named by Dr.
Dawson when he first saw it from a mine on Copper Mountain.

The only published route up Copper Mountain is the moderate scramble. It is not a
highly popular objective. I ascended it in poor visibility and therefore have no views to
report, although I assume nearby Pilot and Storm Mountains shine bright.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come
in from Calgary. Continue past the Banff and Sunshine Ski Resort exits. Trans-
Canada is a four lane interstate type of highway, but it will let you turn left across
traffic into several different trailheads. The second one you come to at 30+/-kms
beyond Banff is the Redearth Creek Trailhead. There are restrooms at this location.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This
pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National
Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit
requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is
also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the
backcountry. Even if you use a hut, you will need this permit. This can be obtained via
the parks website which is included in the camping section below. Park
headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the manned kiosks as
you enter the park.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most climbs in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June through
September. I did Copper Mountain in August, 2004 and the route had fresh snow. As
I type this, it is August, 2005 and Copper probably has a foot of fresh snow just from
today. In any regard, summer snow should not be a problem. There are no
published backcountry ski routes on Copper Mountain and I don’t imagine skiing to
its summit is feasible.

Camping
The closest camp site would be the Lost Horse Creek, RE6, backcountry site in Banff
National Park and it is actually where you leave the trail to start the scramble.
Obviously, this site makes for a great base camp if you wanted to bag Pilot Mountain,
Mount Brett and/or Copper Mountain on separate days. It is 7.2kms in on Redearth
Creek Trail. You could really live it up with a reservation at Shadow Lake Lodge
another 6kms west on Redearth Creek Trail. They feed you well and even have a
homemade sauna (live fire) which I have experienced on a winter ski trip. There are
several more backcountry sites in the area. You can go on line at Banff National Park
to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit. You will also be required to
obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be obtained
simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site.

Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel.

Route
This is a 4700+ ascent day. I said in my old notes that this would go down as the
wettest August (2004) on record in Alberta, but as I type, I believe this August (2005)
will surpass it. Therefore, you can assume I had somewhat of a stormy ascent.
Trying my darnedest to get out despite the rain, thunderstorms and snow, I chose
Copper because it was a moderate objective, but by days end it was a difficult outing.
To start with, the description of the route in the local guidebook is considerably
lacking (sounds like a broken record). You do start at Redearth Creek Trailhead. You
do hike or bike in 7.2k to Lost Horse Creek campsite. After that, the following are my
observations.

Your main landmark will be the pinnacle hovering to the north of Lost Horse Creek
campsite. You need to follow animal trails back northeast along the creek through
several avalanche slopes, angling up left and contouring around the east side of the
pinnacle. I proceeded straight up from there which led to more difficult hands on
scrambling, but enjoyable no doubt if not wet.

One can continue on east to easier approach routes to the summit. However, if you
proceed straight up to the eastern corner of the pinnacle you will land on a small
ridge that leads up to the base of the pinnacle's summit wall (impressive). From
here, proceed up a chimney-gully on the right hand side. This route involved a
5th class move up and over a large boulder and then hands on scrambling to the
south ridge of Copper. The ridge probably should be rated a difficult scramble from
here over to the broad summit plateau, but it went for me straight away. You will find
a large cairn and old tripod (yes, you heard me right) set up for summit photos.
Rather unusual for such a nondescript mountain.

On descent, there appears to be a deep scree gully on the right side of the south
ridge, but due to poor visibility and strong winds, I could not risk exploring this
descent. In lieu of such, I bailed off the east side (left) of the ridge before the most
difficult notch. This down climbing proved to be easier then the before mentioned
chimney-gully I ascended. Once back on the ridge below the pinnacle wall, I
descended one gully east of where I came up, but suggest one of two scree
slopes on either side of the pinnacle if you have visibility and dry weather in
which to navigate. Once back on my bike, it was a fast and dirty mud ride back to
the trailhead.

Essential Gear
Alpine Ax (if snow prevails), Helmet, Bear Spray, Gaiters (for descent), Mountain Bike

Trip Report
The pinnacle wall does not lead to the summit. Do not make the mistake of trying to
summit this wall. I did. I went 3/4 up this climb and then down climbed and took a
chimney to the south ridge (right). Somebody has placed a large tripod up here? A
storm cloud dominated the summit so my photos are in short supply. Cheers.