Chuckawalla Wall

Lat/Lon: 37.13833°N / 113.60472°W, Click for Google Map
Chuckawalla Wall was the first developed sport climbing crag in the St. George area.
Jorge Visser put in the first three routes in 1993. Today there are 24 routes, all 5.10
and above but one and only getting more difficult as the positive edges become
less so. This is the most popular wall in the St. George area on weekends. We were
climbing west of town on Soul Asylum in freezing weather. We came back to
Chuckawalla Wall where the sun always shines and joined no less than another 20
climbers. In contrast, during the heat of summer, Chuckawalla receives deep shade
until noon.

St. George, Utah is surrounded by climbing walls on all fronts with Chuckawalla Wall
and Black Rocks north of town competing for most popular crag. The big difference
is ease of routes. Black Rocks has 65 published routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.13b,
Chuakawalla has only 24 published routes, all 5.10 and above except for one and
most in the 5.11-5.13 range. Ease of access along with ideal sun conditions for both
winter and summer are no doubt partly responsible for their popularity. Both are
closed to any new climbing route development.

Chuckawalla Wall is within the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, a 62,000+ acre scenic
wildlife reserve set aside in 1996 to protect the desert tortoise, among other
sensitive desert species. Red Cliffs Desert Reserve is the cornerstone of three
separate and distinct ecosystems, the Mojave Desert, the Great Basin, and the
Colorado Plateau. Due to this unique merge, several endemic species, those
which can be found no where else in the world, are found in the reserve.

There are 24 medium length sport routes featured in Todd Goss’s new edition guide
book, “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” for Chuckawalla Wall. This recent edition
was published in 2006 and I highly recommend it. I have climbed half a dozen of the
routes by 2006. These routes are longer than most in Black Rocks or Green Valley
Gap. Due to getting somewhat polished, I found the grades a little stiff.

Chuckawalla Wall does not offer the serious trad opportunities that can be found at
Bluff Street Crags just one mile back south overlooking town nor the multi-pitch
routes in Snow Canyon State Park, but does offer longer more challenging routes
than Green Valley Gap, Black Rocks or any of the other sport climbing crags in and
around St. George.

Route Description(s)
Routes are Right to Left as You Face the Wall

Sands of Blood- 40’- Goes easy, but only 5.9 on Chuckawalla, so not a bad
warm up route. Far to the right. Everything is positive, enjoy, because the rest
of the slopers to the west are quite grip challenged.
Apostasy- 45’- 5.10a/ Kind of an easy 5.10. Since Sands of Blood does not
look worth doing, this is the best warm up route. Five bolts through pockets
and under clings to anchor.
Dirtbag- 45’- 5.10a/Little easier than Apostasy, same kind of stuff, slopes and
mini overhangs.
Popular Demand- 45’- 5.10c/ Recommend the route. A little overhanging in
the middle. Definitely a fun route. Steep ground over pockets and five bolts to
anchor.
Tombstone Bullets- 45’- 5.10c-d/
Sand-witch- 45’- 5.11b/ Tough, but recommended 5.11b route. Crux is
towards the top, runs out onto blank ground. Reachy pockets over five bolts to
anchor.
Armageddon- 50’- 5.12b/ Last route before the division in the wall, they start
to get longer and more difficult as you turn the corner to the left. Follow seam
past five bolts to anchor.
Second Coming- 60’- 5.12a/
Happiness is Coming- 60’- 5.11d/
Still Waiting- 60’- 5.12a/
Capt’n Rehab- 50’- 5.13a/
Say Your Prayers- 60’- 5.11d/
As the Jerks Fly- 55’- 5.12a/
Pilgrimage- 50’- 5.12a/
Vertical Smile- 50’- 5.12a/
Mecca- 50’- 5.11c/
As the Crows Fly- 50’- 5.11b/
The Cross- 50’- 5.11d/
Double Cross- 50’- 5.11b/
The Garden of Eden- 50’- 5.10d/
Good Old Chuck- 40’- 5.12b/
Emergency Exit- 45’- 5.12b/
Three Bars Black- 45’- 5.13b/
Staloner- 35’- 5.13a/

Getting There
Drive north on Bluff Street (Route 18) beyond St. George proper. One mile beyond
Sunset Blvd sits a significant trail head with restrooms on the left. Park here and find
the trail at the north end of the parking area and follow the trail to the first wall on your
right which is Chuckawalla Wall. You are entering the Red Cliffs Preserve. There are
trail signs posted and pets are allowed on leash on this trail. We actually had people
on horseback watch us climb. The routes start immediately where you intersect the
wall and follow the wall into a fold to the left. It is imperative that you stay on the
existing trails to avoid damage to the desert terrain, damage that can last for much
longer relative to other environs.

Red Tape
Parking is allowed in designated areas only. Overnight parking for backcountry
camping, hunting, or shuttling is permitted. No camping is permitted in the parking
areas. All pets must be on a leash to prevent wildlife disturbance and to avoid
conflicts with other people. In the Lowland Zone, campfires are restricted to
established fire rings within official campgrounds. Campfires are allowed in the
Upland Zone, but may be subject to closures for high fire danger.

The rock at Chuckawalla Wall is typical of the soft rock of the area and as with most
of the climbing in and around St. George, you should avoid climbing for at least
24 hours after any rain.

My favorite place for dinner is the sushi bar at Samurai, 245 Red Cliffs Drive. The
best breakfast and coffee can be had at Jazzy Java. The Outdoor Outlet is one of my
favorite independent climbing stores anywhere. They know the climbing area well
and have a great selection of gear at competitive prices.

When to Climb
I have climbed in St. George for years during the winter months and have always
found the south walls inviting places to climb. The climbing is good all year round
with the exception of daytime during the summer months. If you are climbing
anywhere in southwestern Utah during the summer months, you more than likely
better get up early and finish your climb early. The walls can get brutally hot.

Camping/Lodging
There are three campgrounds within the city limits of St. George none of which I have
experienced. Temple View RV Resort at 975 South Main Street; Settlers RV Park at
1333 East 100 South; St. George Campground at 2100 East Middleton Drive.

Of course my druthers would be to stay at the campground in Snow Canyon State
Park. This has to be one of the finest State campgrounds anywhere with direct
access to tons of climbing routes. The campground is open all year, no holiday
closures. There is a limit on your stay of 5 days. They have 33 total units, 17 of which
are reserved for the big boys (RV’s) with utility hookups. The tent sites were $14 in
2005. Drinking water is available on site along with vault toilets and even showers.
The running/hiking/equestrian trail system is pretty cool and as long as you don’t run
into the occasional Segway group, the whole park is usually very quiet, particularly
during winter months.