Cerberus Gendarme, Zion National Park

Lat/Lon: 37.27389°N / 112.94333°W- Click for Satellite Image
According to Alex McAfee’s old guide book, “Zion Rock, The Finest Climbs of Zion
National Park”, he labels Cerberus as “cragging in Zion doesn’t get better.” The
Falcon Guide calls the Cerberus wall base climbs the “best selection of one pitch
free climbs” of Zion Canyon. One thing I can attest to is that access cannot get
easier (well unless you are stuck riding the tourist shuttle in season). Cerberus is
just 200’ off the park road behind the Big Bend Overlook pullout. Ron Olevsky put up
one of the first big wall routes in Zion Canyon called Touchstone, IV, 5.9, C2 that
ascends Cerberus Gendarme to its summit. Aton/Allison/Stern is another route that
goes to the top of Cerberus. To the right and towards Weeping Rock along the base
of Cerberus are no less than 14 additional published routes, mostly trad and a few
sport.

The name "Zion" meaning "place of refuge," was given to the canyon by Mormon
pioneers in 1919. The park is comprised of 229 square miles of protected
wilderness and is home to Kolob Arch, the world’s largest. Cerberus, via Greek
Mythology, was the hound of Hades, a large three-headed demon dog. Cerberus
guarded the gate to Hades and ensured that spirits of the dead could enter, but none
could exit.

Route Description(s)
The Routes are Listed Left to Right

Touchstone Wall, IV, 5.9-C2/ 8 Pitches- Olevsky put Touchstone up in 1977. I
was in town in 2007 when they filmed the 30 year anniversary. I attempted the
route in 2006 but was “blown off” by bad weather after five pitches.
Touchstone is a Zion classic aid route and everybody along with their aunt
wants to do it. It is a full outing and it is not unusual for parties to pass each
other on it. Way too much congestion for me, thus why I attempted it in
suspect weather, which I don’t advise. The winds can blow your ropes to
oblivion if you have to rap the route.
Cynthia’s Handjob, 5.9/ 65’-
Cave Route, 5.7- I guess this common route was used in one of my favorite
movies and what many consider the first real climbing movie, “The Eiger
Sanction”. This route ascends the obvious right-facing corner on the far left
side of the wall. Off width to hand and fist crack to the cave above and bolt
belay. You can use your #4 BD on the lower section. Despite what the Falcon
Guide suggests, you can rap the route.
No Holds Barred, 5.8/ 40’-
Squeeze Play, 5.10a/ 60’-
The Fat’hedral, 5.10d/ 150’-
Fails of Power, 5.11b-c/ 70’-
Scarlet Begonias, 5.11a/ 65’-
Tails of Flails, 5.9/ 100’- Excellent fun overhanging crack lead. Start up
chimney to jamming thin hand to finger crack with good gear placements up
black dihedral to chains. Continue past three bolts (5.10a) to another anchor
(130’ total) if you don’t mind two raps or have double ropes.
Electrica, 5.11c-d/ 120’- (a Conrad Anker route)
Dire Wolf, 5.12a-A0/ 120’-
Cherry Crack, 5.10c/ 140’-
Intruder, 5.11c/ 65’-
Aton/Allison/Stern, IV, 5.9-A0/ (top of Cerberus)-
Flip of the Coin, 5.10d/ 80’-
Coconut Corner, III, 5.11a/ 4 Pitches-
Face-tastic, 5.11/ 100’-

Getting There
Drive 5 miles, from the left hand turn over the bridge heading down Zion Canyon, to
the Scout Lookout parking area behind Angel’s Landing on the left. I believe you are
supposed to drive to the road's end and turn around to access this parking area.
Walk across the road back towards the Cerberus Wall on the opposing side. There
are several trails, one that heads straight up to the Cave Route and at least one
further east that takes you towards the middle of the wall at Tails of Flails.

Red Tape
You do not need a climbing permit but you will have to pay a National Park fee to
access the park. During tourist season, you will only be able to access the road by
shuttle. I always purchase an annual pass to US and Canadian National Parks. If
you are going to make more than 4 visits per year, I advise this option.

Zion National Park will have manned kiosks on Highway 9 and you will be required to
pay a US National Park fee ($20 per vehicle for a day/week pass, $50 for an annual
pass-2006) if you drive by them. Backcountry permits are required for all overnight
trips in Zion National Park, including climbing bivouacs. Climbing bivouac
reservations are available for Moonlight Buttress, Lunar Ecstasy, Prodigal Son,
Spaceshot and Touchstone climbing areas. The permit fees are based on group
size: 1-2 people: $10, 3-7 people: $15 and 8-12 people: $20. Reservations are
available for many backcountry trips in the park. A reservation does not guarantee
that you will receive a permit. Reasons that a permit will be denied include high
water, flash flood warnings, and wildland fires. Depending upon the backcountry
zone, 40%-60% of the total number of backcountry permits are available through
reservations. The remainder of permits are available as walk-in permits.

Some rock formations and routes are closed to climbing from March 1 to mid-July
each year to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Some areas that are routinely closed
include the Great White Throne, Cable Mountain, Court of the Patriarchs, and the
Streaked Wall.

My favorite place for dinner in Springdale is the outdoor patio at Oscars. It also
appears to be the local’s favorite. Most of the staff is into climbing as well, so it is a
great place to plan your next climbing day and maybe even pick up a partner. Ask for
Zach. The Mean Bean across from Oscars is one of my favorite independent coffee
houses period. Ask for Joe.

When to Climb
Summer days are hot (95-110°F), but overnight lows are usually comfortable (65-70°
F). Climbing in the middle of the day during the summer in southern Utah is not
recommended. Carry plenty of water regardless. Afternoon thunderstorms are
common from mid-July through mid-September. Storms may produce waterfalls as
well as flash floods. Sandstone is weak when wet, so avoid climbing in damp
areas or right after a rain. Winter in Zion Canyon is fairly mild. Winter storms can
bring rain or light snow to Zion Canyon and much heavier snow in the higher
elevations. I attempted Touchstone during the winter months and the cold and wind
turned us around at pitch 5. Needless to say the rappel was not a joy. Clear days
may become quite warm, reaching 60°F; nights are often in the 20s and 30s. Zion
roads are plowed, except the Kolob Terrace road, which is closed in winter.

Camping/Lodging
There are two great campsites inside Zion’s south entrance. I have stayed at the
South Campground just inside the gates. The scenic spots are on the North Fork of
the Virgin River. This is a first come, first serve campground via self registration of
$16 per night in 2005. This is a popular park however and I advise booking a site
ahead of time at Watchman Campground if you think you are going during a popular
period. Facilities include restrooms, drinking water, picnic tables, fire grates, RV
dump stations. No showers are available at these park campsites but are available
at an in town private facility for a fee. There is also a 6-site primitive campground
called Lava Point, no water, no fee, and it is not open all year.

Springdale has tons of lodging options as well including a privately owned
campground right before the entrance to Zion National Park. If you demand the
luxuries of town, I recommend Majestic View Lodge. I have stayed here on several
occasions and the rooms are first class with great views. There is also the privately
run Zion Lodge which is in the heart of the park.

It is actually “illegal” in Zion to camp at the base of a climbing wall or in your vehicle.