Mount Carthew Scramble

Lat/Lon: 49.0320°N, 114.0006°W - CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
Mt. Carthew is located on the south side of Cameron Creek Valley overlooking
Carthew and Alderson Lakes in Waterton Lakes National Park.    Waterton Lakes
National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an International Peace Park and
a Biosphere Reserve, the only park in the world that has all three designations.
At 203 square miles, Waterton Lakes National Park is the smallest Canadian
National Park.   It borders Glacier National Park in Montana.   Together they make up
the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park (formed in 1932). You can actually
paddle to and fro the US and Canada in Cameron Lake which is the start of the Mt.
Carthew scramble. The North Boundary Trail also intersects both parks.    Waterton
Lakes National Park sits at one of the narrower sections of the Rocky Mountains
(Crown of the Continent).     The scramble starts on the popular Carthew-Alderson
Trail and returns to it to continue on with the through hike on the same trip.

The unique geography of Waterton Lakes National Park provides habitat for a diverse
group of wildlife and vegetation species. The dry prairie adjoins the alpine region
with no transition zone creating a unique habitat that combines species from both
regions.    There are more than 234 species of birds, 57 species of mammals and
17 species of fish sighted in Waterton Lakes National Park (2003).    In recent years
botanists have recorded some 900 different species of wild flowers in Waterton,
more than half the number of species in all of Alberta. Prairie plants mix with alpine
plants, plants from west of the continental divide mix with plants from east of
the continental divide and plants that are not found anywhere else in Canada
can be found here.

The 12-mile (19-kilometer) Carthew-Alderson Trail is considered one of the finer
day hikes in North America.   From Cameron Lake, at the end of the Akamina
Parkway, the route switchbacks through sub-alpine forest up to the southeast ridge
on Mount Carthew.   The scramble can leave the trail early and access the
southwest ridge, giving you a much larger 360 degree view.     Mount Carthew
contains unusual striking brick-red rock.   The mountain was officially named after
a surveyor’s assistant who climbed the mountain in the early 1900’s.

Getting There
Alberta Highway 6 takes you to Waterton from Pincher, AB.   It becomes US Hwy 17
as you cross the border into Montana. Keep in mind this small border crossing
keeps banking hours.   Drive into Waterton Lakes National Park, from Highway 6,
through the park kiosks and proceed towards the town of Waterton.   After you pass
the information center on your right, take a right on the Akamina Parkway.   Travel
approximately 16km until it dead ends into the Cameron Lake parking area.   The
Carthew Trail begins on the boardwalk (left).   They offer shuttles from town for
through hikers-scramblers.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Waterton Lakes
National Park at the only entrance or exit which is on the east side.   This pass is
good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks
within one year, you should purchase an annual pass.   There are no permit
requirements to climb in Waterton Lakes National Park, but all camping is
regulated.   There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a
night in the backcountry versus the town campsite(s).   This can be obtained via the
parks website which is included in the camping section below.   Waterton Lakes
National Park headquarters are located on the right side of the road across from
the Prince of Wales hotel, which is an historic landmark built in 1927.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person.     I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.
The book titled “The Bear’s Embrace” is a true story by a couple from Calgary,
AB who survived a grizzly attack in Waterton.    It dealt more with the difficult
recovery from such harsh wounds and disfigurement than the attack itself.

When to Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September.    I climbed Mount Carthew in July. The vegetation and climate
are more “west coast like” in the summer than any other part of the Canadian
Rockies. I have seen quite the lightning storm roll through Upper Waterton Lake.

Camping
The closest conventional camp site would be the Waterton Town Campsite.    The
closest backcountry site is actually up at Alderson Lake which you would pass on
descent of Mount Carthew and/or Buchanan Peak if you are doing a through hike,
therefore, it would make for a great place to camp.   You can go on line at Waterton
Lakes National Park to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit.    You will
also be required to obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be
obtained simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site like Alderson
Lake.    You cannot camp outside of the marked specific camping areas.   You can
stay in luxury at a variety of locations in town.   Although the Prince of Wales is
historic, it seems awfully pricey for what they offer.

Mountain Conditions
Waterton Lakes National Park has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.
Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful,
particularly for winter travel.   Canadian Alpine Accident Reports are also extremely
helpful.

Route
Either hitch it or take the hikers shuttle to Cameron Lake at 8:30 or 10:30 AM (2003).
The Cameron-Alderson Trail starts on the boardwalk to the left side of the lake.
Follow the trail past Summit Lake through a ton of switchbacks and on to a high
alpine area.

This is a 4000’+/- ascent. Mount Carthew will be on your left and Chapman Peak (in
Montana) along with its small remnant of a glacier will be on your right. As you round
a big left corner of the trail, the left hand ridge of Carthew Peak will come into full
view.   Go ahead and come off the trail and ascend this ridge.   The earlier you
ascend this southwest ridge, the better in terms of views of Mount Blakiston (photo)
to the north and the Montana mountains of Custer and Chapman Peak (photo) to the
south (as well as Chapman’s glacier and lake).   As you continue along the
southwest ridge, you will need to traverse right below a false summit (ran into a lone
sheep here-photo) and then head due north (left) for Carthew’s summit which entails
no more than a hike to the summit cairn.

I continued from Mount Carthew’s summit for Buchanan Peak, which made for a
much more challenging (read exposed and difficult) scramble.     On your traverse
over to Buchanan Peak, you will be forced to down climb two very precarious
rock bands. Take your time and pick your routes well. Venture to the left more
than right. This rock is some of the worse I have run into and this is not a common
objective, therefore route finding is at a premium.    Definitely wear your helmet as
you make this descent.

Once you reach the col between Mount Carthew and Buchanan Peak, the summit
trek to Buchanan is uneventful.   I witnessed a pair of ptarmigans near Buchanan’s
summit who were in the begging mood. On the descent, I followed the southeast
ridge almost to a saddle on Buchanan’s lower flanks (skiers left) and then slid down
the scree to a semi dry creek and bushwhacked my way out to the Carthew Creek
Trail and back to Waterton.

This was about a 20k one way trek, with a big section offering 360 degree views of
the park.   There was no one in sight on either scramble compared to tons of people
on the trail.

Essential Gear
Helmet for sure, some would prefer a rope on the Mount Carthew descent to the
Buchanan Peak col.    Map, compass, bear spray, etc.

Trip Report
Waterton Lakes National Park is just a great place to knock out some quick and easy
scrambles when traveling back and forth across the border.   I did three in two days
in the summer of 2003.   It is a quaint small park/town and this scramble is a great
variation of one of the most acclaimed trails in North America (Carthew-Alderson).
Cool Ptarmigans on the summit of Buchanan. Cheers!