Bow Falls, III, WI 3-4

Lat/Lon: 51.65694°N / 116.51389°W- CLICK FOR
TOPO MAP
Bow Falls is 100+/- meters of ice that is sourced by a glacier lake (unseen
from below) that lies in a basin below the receding toe of the Bow Glacier
on the Wapta Icefield. Early 20th century photos show the glacier ice once
flowed right over the cliffs where the falls now form. Bow Falls make up
part of the headwaters for the Bow River which is the main tributary that
flows through Banff National Park, the Banff town site, Canmore (outside
my backdoor) and through Calgary. Bow Falls is located in Banff National
Park, one of four connecting national parks making up the central
Canadian Rockies.

The Bow Falls route forms early due to its elevation and northern tilt
beneath the upper ice fields. It is not necessarily considered a quality
climb early however. Bow Falls is considered less of an avalanche risk
than most ice in the Canadian Rockies, although I witnessed several
slides over adjacent ice on our climb. Several lines form on Bow Falls with
the WI 3 more left (Photographers Gully) and the WI 4 center to right. We
climbed the WI 4 center, two pitches. To the right of Bow Falls, shorter
routes on Gorby Falls can form, but were not in when we climbed Bow
Falls in April. You will pass Pointless Gully, III, WI 4 and Aimless Gully, III,
WI 4 on your right during the approach to Bow Falls. Pointless Gully has
considerable avalanche concern. Both of these routes looked good in
April.

The main risk involved in this climb is the high volume waterfall that
runs underneath Bow Falls that can create a chasm on approach as
deep as 35’. Bow Falls has two published accident reports to date. Bow
Falls is listed in Joe Josephson’s “Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian
Rockies.”

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho
National Parks on its way to Vancouver. As you pass through Lake Louise
heading westbound, you want to exit onto the Icefields Parkway (Highway
93) towards Jasper. Park at the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge 36 km north of when
you left the Trans-Canada. Ski across the north end of Bow Lake as you
would to access the Bow Hut on the Wapta Icefield.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff
National Park coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is
good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian
National Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass.
There are no permit requirements to climb in Banff or Yoho National
Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit
required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the
conventional campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website. The
huts are managed by the Alpine Club of Canada versus the Parks. The
Alpine Club of Canada headquarters is located in Canmore, AB, the Banff
National Park headquarters is located in Banff, AB and Yoho National Park
headquarters is located in Field, BC. You will drive through the manned
national park kiosk as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-Canada.
You will drive through a kiosks area again as you gain the Icefield
Parkway. However, it is normally not manned in the winter.

When To Climb
I climbed Bow Falls in April. It goes in early and stays in late. The main
issue is how solid Bow Lake is. Do not cross the lake on approach if you
have any question as to the soundness of the ice. You can circumvent
the lake on a trail to the right.

Mountain Conditions
The Yoho National Park and Banff National Park websites have weather,
wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks websites,
Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter
travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely relevant.

Route
From the west end of Bow Lake, continue up the valley for another km as
you would for access to the Bow Hut on the Wapta Icefield. Turn left and
ascend into the trees and then drop back down onto the creek that leads
into the narrow canyon (terrain trap) that proceeds up to the Bow Hut.
Depart to the right here and head for the amphitheater containing Bow and
Gorby Falls. You are aiming for the lower left corner of this large headwall.

The climb begins with a broad, sometimes thin, layer of ice covering a
chasm and some serious running water at times. This is a hazard to
beware of. We did not rope up at this juncture, but many parties do. With
crampons, continue up to the base of the steep waterfall folded into the
rock in the left corner of this broad headwall. The easiest line is
nicknamed Photographers Gully and starts in the left corner right above a
nice flat corner off of the ice in which to set up the climb. The center and
right side provide more esthetic and challenging lines to climb.

The first pitch we did took us to right below a huge rock that protrudes
from the falls. We set up a station here and ascended climbers left up well
sculptured ice. You top out above the headwall at a comfortable spot if the
weather is calm. There are chains further south for a rap, but also some
bomber rap station (my memory has failed me on what kind) that allowed
us to descend straight down the ice versus making contact with our
crampons on the rock to climbers left. There is a way to down climb the
route as well.

Essential Gear
Two Ice Tools, Double 60 meter Ropes, 12+ Ice Screws and Draws,
Crampons, Helmet, Warm Clothes, Full Shank Boots, Skis