Mount Bosworth Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.46°N, 116.33°W
Mount Bosworth is located on the continental divide (re: Storm Mountain), therefore,
on the border of Alberta and British Columbia as well as Banff and Yoho National
Parks, two of four connecting parks that make up the central Canadian Rockies.
For a quick, yet challenging, scramble, Mount Bosworth’s summit makes for one
of the finer vantage points in the parks. The main reason for this phenomena is
that Bosworth sits at the convergence of five separate valleys: Bow River, Pipestone
River, Kicking Horse River, Cataract Brook (Lake O’Hara) and Bath Creek. The
resulting clear and/or immediate views are: the north ridge route of Mt. Victoria, the
north glacier of Mt. Temple, Mt. Niblock, Mt. Whyte, Popes Peak, Mt.St. Piran, Narao
Peak, Mt. Collier, The Goodsirs, Odaray Mountain, Mt. Vaux, Cathedral Crags, Mt.
Stephen, Mt. Carnarvon, The President and Vice President, Mts. Daly and Niles,
Paget Peak, the Bath Glacier, south end of the Wapta Icefield, Mt. Hector, Redoubt
Mountain, Mt. Richardson, Pika and Ptarmigan Peaks….need I continue? This is
just one hell of a vantage point if you want to learn some peaks and even study a
few routes.

Mount Bosworth was named after a railroad executive in 1903, the same year it was
ascended by a topological survey team. The most interesting history regarding
Bosworth was the dynamite charged avalanche in 1971 that ripped a portion of the
mountain down with the snowpack wiping out the highway (what they were trying to
protect), the communication lines and even the railroad bed. The only published
route on Bosworth is the difficult scramble in Alan Kane’s book. I have skied up
nearby Paget Peak, but do not see Bosworth offering up any summit ski routes. The
scramble itself involves over 100’ of rock climbing on the summit block.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National
Parks on its way to Vancouver. Pass through Lake Louise heading westbound and
continue on the Trans-Canada on its way to Field, BC. As you pass the Yoho
National Park welcoming sign, drive 2.3 km more and pull off along side the road on
the right hand side.   There is no official pull off, or cairn and/or trail.   If you pass
the Lake O’Hara trailhead, you have gone too far. Mount Bosworth is on your right,
you can see the summit block from the road. Refer to the above photo.

Red Tape
The summit of Mount Bosworth is in Yoho and Banff National Parks, however, the
scramble starts in Yoho.   You will be required to purchase a national park pass as
you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-Canada.   This pass is good for all four
national parks.   If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year,
you should purchase an annual pass.   There are no permit requirements to climb
in Yoho National Park, but all camping is regulated.   There is also a backcountry
permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town
campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the
camping section below.   Yoho National Park headquarters are located in Field, BC
and you will drive through the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff
National Park on the Trans-Canada.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your
person. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area and/or trail closures.

When To Climb
As with most scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, the driest time is from June
through September. I climbed Mount Bosworth in June and it was in good condition
with snow ramps for a quick descent. There are no published backcountry ski
routes on Bosworth, nor would it be conducive to ski to the summit.

Camping
The closest camp site would be the Kicking Horse Campground closer to Field at
the Yoho Valley Road exit.   Even closer is the West Louise Lodge, a hotel type
accommodation several kilometers west. You can go on line at Yoho National Park
to pick a camp site and obtain your camping permit. You will also be required to
obtain your backcountry permit which is separate, but can be obtained
simultaneously if you plan on camping at a backcountry site. You cannot camp
outside of the marked specific camping areas.

Mountain Conditions
Yoho National Park has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the
parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for
winter travel.

Route
This is a 3800’+/- ascent day.    Unlike most objectives in the Canadian Rockies, you
can actually see the summit block of Mount Bosworth from the road. The summit is
darker than the other rock on the ridge and is clearly marked via the “red lined
route” photo on the main page. There is no trail.

You immediately ascend an avalanche gully and angle over to your right into a broad
drainage. Stay to the left for better ground here and eventually cross this drainage as
it narrows and continue to ascend via a water worn rock feature (gully). This is a
good spot for your helmets due to loose rock, particularly if not solo. Ascend the right
side of this waterfall-drainage-gully until you top out onto a scree/snow slope.
Staying in the middle of this slope affords you decent ground, firmer than the snow
to the left and/or scree to the right. Ascend angling left so you can overtake the
skyline sharp ridge on your left. Ascend this next gully angling left when possible,
looking for grassy slopes and firm rock to ascend versus the scree. Again, you are
looking to traverse into the next gully left (west) underneath a rock face. There is a
great lunch spot at about 8200’ below this rock face that not only offers superior
views of Mt. Victoria and Cathedral Mountain to the southwest, but also allows you to
study the remaining route to the east ridge of Mount Bosworth.

You will notice, if early enough in the season, a snow slope that leads to the left.
Just right of that slope is a narrow rock problem that is more enjoyable of a climb.
Climb to the left of a large boulder that serves as a head to this narrow gully and
continue northwest to gain the eastern ridge right below the summit block.   This
last 100’+ is the crux of the climb.   You must pick you way through a maze of loose
rock bands to the summit. As stated on the main page, the views from Mount
Bosworth, for a 9000’ mountain, are unparalleled in the Canadian Rockies due to
the convergence of five separate valleys. Included are the north ridge route of Mt.
Victoria, the north glacier of Mt. Temple, Mt. Niblock, Mt. Whyte, Popes Peak, Mt.St.
Piran, Narao Peak, Mt. Collier, The Goodsirs, Odaray Mountain, Mt. Vaux, Cathedral
Crags, Mt. Stephen, Mt. Carnarvon, The President and Vice President Mts. Daly and
Niles, Paget Peak, the Bath Glacier, south end of the Wapta Icefield, Mt. Hector,
Redoubt Mountain, Mt. Richardson, Pika and Ptarmigan Peaks and many more.

On ascent of that summit block you can spread out and attack different routes.
As well on descent, it is imperative that you not climb on each other.   Bosworth’s
east ridge is incredibly loose, but not unusual for the Canadian Rockies.   Once
back down that tricky 100’, catch the snow glissade straight down at least 1000’
before making your traverse left aiming for a “dragons back” buttress section
sticking out south from the slopes.   There is a considerable water worn cliff
below if you continue down the drainage immediately below the summit.   You
must traverse back to your ascent route which is just on the east side of the before
mentioned buttress.   If fact in June, we used more snow at that section to lose
another 600’ or so on glissade.   Return as you ascended making sure not to stray
too far left. And again, you must stick close together or far apart through the water
worn drainage area to avoid rock fall.

Essential Gear
Helmet, Gaiters, Alpine Ax if Snow, Bear Spray…we took some 8 mm cord for the
summit block, but did not feel the need to use it.

Trip Report
We climbed Mount Bosworth in June, 2005 and still had a decent amount of snow
for a pleasant descent. The last 100’ or so are what make this climb interesting, and
of course is the most enjoyable hands on climbing. The mountain has good ground,
if you pick your route judiciously, you can avoid most scree on ascent, yet find it for
descent. We could have sat up there all day naming routes and summits. It is
amazing how Mount Bosworth is perched in such a unique spot in the parks. We
made a six hour trip out of it. Cheers!