|OCTOBER-2003 Gain- 5500'+/- Summit- 10,315' 8hrs+/- Moderate Scramble-Solo
|Lat/Lon: 50.9°N, 115.24°W
Mount Bogart is the second highest peak in the Kananaskis Range located in Kananaskis
Provincial Park on the eastern bank of the Canadian Rockies. Therefore, it is one of the
most impressive peaks as viewed from Highway 40 heading south (Kananaskis Highway)
and holds more snow and ice then the neighboring mountains. Mount Bogart was
officially named in 1928 after a geologist who was one of the first scientist to study the
Rockies. However, it was also unofficially named The Pyramid due to its triangular
summit. Mount Bogart is connected via a northern long ridge to Mount Sparrowhawk, a
popular scramble/back country ski mountain accessed via the Spray Lake Reservoir.
Mount Bogart’s summit can be easily viewed from the Kananaskis Village turnoff of
Highway 40. The route however takes you on a long approach towards the south side of
the mountain via Ribbon Creek Trail. The only published route is a long moderate to
difficult scramble (depending on snow and ice conditions). It is a 5500’+/- ascent day
more than likely encountering strong, if not voracious, winds.
Take the Kananaskis Trial (Highway 40) exit off of the Trans-Canada Highway between
Calgary and Canmore. Travel 23.4 km south on Highway 40 and turn right into Kananaskis
Village and follow the signs to the Ribbon Creek parking lot. Take your bike for the long
There are no permit requirements to enter, climb and/or park in Kananaskis Country. This
is active grizzly country however. Take bear spray. You drive by the park headquarters on
the way in on Highway 40. Any recent notices will be posted on the bulletin board outside. If
they are open, check in with the ranger staff, they have tons of beta and are always friendly.
When to Climb
This can be a harsh mountain and is therefore a summer scramble. Try from late June
through September. I climbed the mountain in October and faced considerable ice.
You can make this a long day trip or sleep in style at the Ribbon Creek Hostel, just walking
distance to the trail head. Or really go all out and stay at the posh Delta Lodge in
Kananaskis Village. There are campgrounds available as well, including a very nice
campsite 11 km in route, Ribbon Falls. You cannot camp outside of the marked specific
camping areas in Kananaskis.
Here is the Kananaskis Provincial Park website. This is a very thorough park website,
including trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices, weather conditions, avalanche
conditions, camping permits, whitewater conditions, etc. It is an excellent source if you are
going to spend any time here and comparable to any National Park website I have used.
BRING YOUR BIKE and park at the Ribbon Creek parking lot at Kananaskis Village. Bike
in on the wide path picking up 500' gain and 5 km. There is a bike rack at the end of this
wide trail. Continue on foot for another 6 km (old cabin(s) site 1 km into this hike). You will
proceed through the camp site and Ribbon Falls (good photo ops) onto switchbacks. At
about 7000' you will be at a drainage opening up to cliffs and water worn rock that lead to a
small tairn and the cirque of Bogart. (There are no trails or cairns, I found one flag and
started a small cairn in 2003).
The cliffs above the drainage contain your first crux. I free climbed 5.6 straight up some of
these 20'-30' walls, but you can circumvent most of them to the top left of the drainage,
traversing back over to the right. The top of this problem opens up to a large cirque with
the summit of Bogart to the NE. There are no trails, just head straight up the scree staying
to the right to bypass a lower cliff. Proceed up hellish scree to the cliffs protecting the
summit. Depending on conditions, wind and ice can both be a factor at this point. Look for
the driest route. There are quite a few rock bands to face during the last 800'. A steep
gully to the left of the bulge in the middle gets you started. I had too much ice and wind to
piddle around route finding, so free climbed short and steep rock bands right up the
middle. I am sure there is a more moderate route. After this crux, you still have to
navigate 3-5 smaller rock-ice bands. Remember your route up, these are steep cliffs. On
descent, navigate to the right through the lower crux at 8000'. At times, I faced winds of
Ice ax, mini or regular crampons, helmet, goggles for the wind and good legs could be
Crux- Click to Enlarge. Quite a few rock bands to
face during that last 800'. A steep gully to the left
of the bulge in the middle gets you started. I had
too much ice and wind to piddle around route
finding, so free climbed short and steep rock
bands right up the middle. I am sure there is a
more moderate approach.
#2- Morning Moon on Approach
#3- Bogart Summit (rear)
#4- Summit-Harsh Winds
#5- Bogart from Engadine's Summit