Mount Assiniboine North Ridge, II, 5.5 via BC Approach

Lat/Lon: 50.75028°N / 116.77722°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
North Ridge via BC
Locally, quite a bit has been discussed regarding a shorter approach to Mount
Assiniboine’s North Face by means of a back door route in through British Columbia. In
fact the same start that takes you up the south face scramble of Mount Assiniboine can be
used to place you 400’+ above the RC Hind Hut on the northwest corner of Mount
Assiniboine (4500’ from car to the col between Mount Assiniboine and Mount Strom). This
route involves crossing the glacier hemmed in by Mount Sturdee to the south, Mount
Strom to the north and Mount Assiniboine to the east. Mount Assiniboine itself sits on
the continental divide and thus the Alberta- British Columbia border. It is the center piece
of its own Provincial Park, Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park.

Although this route requires more elevation gain (8200’ total, car return to car), it is
considerably shorter than the traditional Alberta approach via Bryant Creek. It discontinues
becoming a trail and becomes more of an alpine approach at Assiniboine Lake at the top
of Assiniboine Creek. The glacier travel is relatively short but requires standard glacier
travel protocol, not to mention your typical crevasse route finding skills. This 11km+
approach can be done in approximately 5-8 hours each way. It is more than a 160km drive
from Canmore, AB to the trailhead, a considerable amount of which is traveled on gravel
road.

If you are looking for a scenic, wild and less crowded approach to this popular objective,
this is the route for you. On a mid September trip in 2006, we did not see another
human during the entire trip in or out.

From Banff to the east, gain Highway 93 off of the TransCanada to Radium Hot Springs
and enter Kootenay National Park in British Columbia. Drive to Vermillion Crossing and
continue for another 43kms to Settlers Road on the left which is well signed. Settlers Road
is used by truck traffic serving Baymag Mine therefore caution is advised. These trucks use
radio correspondence to report each others position and drive accordingly. Continue down
Settlers road past the 12km marker and then take Cross River Forest Service Road to the
left. Follow the Cross River Forest Service Road to Baymag Mine at the end. Before you
cross the final bridge into the mine, turn right on an old dirt logging road. Travel
approximately 4kms over two bridges to a small parking area that lines up with
Assiniboine Creek due north. In 2006 there was a limited supply of chicken wire and
logs that can be utilized to protect your vehicle from porcupines.

Route Description
Pick up a faint trail through the clear cut area heading due north for the right side of
Assiniboine Creek. Once into tree line the trail becomes more definitive. This is a trail
used more often for the Mount Lunette and Mount Assiniboine (south face) scrambles.
Cross a small creek and continue to a much larger runoff that requires a log crossing. In
2006 we found a well established log with a corresponding cable wire strung across for an
easy crossing. In the past, this has been considered a difficult water crossing. Continue
up the trail to a Y intersection, take the left fork. In approximately 2 hours from the car you
should find yourself at Assiniboine Lake, which reflects more emerald than Emerald Lake
in Yoho National Park.

After you skirt along the right side of the lake, the trail peters out and the scramble portion
of the approach begins. Ascend up a large basin towards a massive red rock buttress that
divides this amphitheaters’ north exit. Turn this flat top buttress to the right. On ascent
through this rocky portion, you will notice a unique “port hole” waterfall coming out of bed
rock to the far left. This port hole is several hundred feet below the top of a massive
headwall and makes a thunderous noise heard throughout your ascent. Once up to the
right side of the buttress, stay close to its south east wall and ascend loose scree and
talus up to its top which forms with a ridge bleeding east. Cross over this ridge and aim
for the glacier now in view further north. Mount Sturdee’s steep west flank has waterfalls
that originate from an ice shelf further up. Once you pass through this drainage, gain the
glacier up the left hand side where it is less steep to make access.

We traveled the glacier un-roped due to good crevasse exposure and little if any fresh
snow. You will want to work your way right to avoid the harsher crevasse terrain to the
west. Never venture out full on center, but definitely keep working back right as you
circumvent many open crevasses. Mount Lunette’s glaciated northwest face comes into
full view to the right. Continue straight for Mount Assiniboine’s northwest corner. You will
ascend a small wind ridge of snow on the glacier and then descend to get off the ice and
onto moraine. There were no cairns or evidence of a trail when we got off the glacier in
2006. Ascend a very tedious talus and scree slope up to the col between Mount Strom and
Mount Assiniboine. Once you reach this col (9500’), the north face of Mount Assiniboine
comes into full view. The hut is also now visible some 400’ below to the west.

Descend some talus to a small patch of glacier that leads towards the RC Hind hut. You
can avoid using crampons by staying close to the talus until it finally leads you to moraine
that heads over to the hut. The RC Hind Hut is approximately at 9000’.

From the RC Hind Hut, the total elevation gain to the summit of Mount Assiniboine is
approximately 3100’+ due to elevation loss to begin your ascent. There are several ways
to gain the north ridge of Mount Assiniboine, none of which avoid the scree or loose talus,
but once you make it to the first solid rock at 9700’, it is much more pleasant. The first rock
band is at the base of the ridge right beside a glacier that comes down from the Mount
Magog-Mount Assiniboine col. As is most always the case, it looks much tougher from the
hut window than it actually is. Easy scrambling gets you to the top of this short section,
and then a long loose plod through snow and rock takes you up the left side of the face to
an easy break in what they call the “red band”. I soloed Mount Assiniboine and, my
extensive experience aside, felt this route was little more than a glorified scramble.
That being said, you will find extensive rappel stations slung throughout the entire route
from bottom to top. The red band break is obvious whether you are studying it from the hut
or on route. It is a shallow section that goes like a scramble and can be just as easily
down climbed.

Once through the red band, move left to gain the ridge itself and scramble up on good
ground to what they call the grey band. This section is no doubt the crux and turned Sepp
Renner (been to the summit of Assiniboine over 40 times) and several of his clients
around the day before my ascent due to veriglass or rime on the rock. Although I found
evidence of some ice coating the rock, crampons were not necessary on my ascent and
would have been more of a hindrance than an asset. Again, you will pass many rappel
stations and the scrambling gets more challenging the further up you go. The crux is one
small pitch at the top of this section. You move a few meters right along a ledge and
ascend an obvious line past a piton or two climbing slightly back left. Once you top out
here, it is easy going until eventually you see the real summit which is hidden from the hut
perspective. Another 5-10 minutes and you will be at the summit which is almost always
corniced. There was no visible cairn in September 2006 and if there is one, it no doubt is
buried in snow the majority of the year. You can also expect your own little mini storm at
the summit most days as well.

Descend the entire route the way you ascended. I took three rappels on well established
piton rappel stations to get through the rime covered portion of the upper grey band. I
used a 60 meter rope, but could have gotten by with 40 meters. The rest of the route is
relatively easy to down climb in dry conditions. My total hut to hut time was 4.5 hours, but
expect 6-8 to be the norm for experienced peak baggers and I saw one hut log entry
of 17.5 hours! The elevation gain to the hut from the BC approach was 4500’+/-. Summit
day was 3300’+/-. Your descent will require another 400’ gain to overcome the Mount
Strom col again.

Essential Gear
40-60 meter rope, if placing pro, a few mid sized cams and nuts, harness, helmet,
crampons, alpine axe for glacier travel. If you are roping up for the glacier, self extraction
gear. Boots are more than adequate for any required rock climbing on the north ridge. The
hut is well equipped for a few parties, but if you know it is going to be full, take your own
stove, pots and fuel. My wife and I had it to ourselves and thus it served as quite the resort
in that case. You can leave your payment for Sepp Renner at the hut. He has it stocked
with a radio for check in and emergency purposes.

External Links
Ministry of Environment, BC, Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park

Parks Canada weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc.

Accident Reports for Canadian Rockies 18 Accident Reports involving 8 Fatalities on
Mount Assiniboine