Mount Andromache Scramble

Lat/Lon: 51.61389°N / 116.29167°W- CLICK FOR TOPO MAP
I have passed Mount Andromache on several occasions in the winter on my ski to the
summit of Mount Hector, one of the more popular 11,000’+ peaks in the Canadian
Rockies. Mount Andromache can be done as a traverse from west to east to south to
west to north to west. Therefore Mount Andromache rates high on my scramble list, not
to mention sporting spectacular Icefields Parkway views. Mount Andromache was
unofficially named by the Alpine Club of Canada in 1948. It was first ascended by James
McArthur in 1887. In Greek mythology, Andromache was the wife of Trojan hero Hector,
thus its name is deemed appropriate.

Mount Andromache is located in the Banff National Park section of the Icefields Parkway.
Banff National Park is one of four connecting national parks located in the central
Canadian Rockies. The only published route up Mount Andromache is the scramble in
Alan Kane’s Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies guide book. Supposedly not considered
a popular objective in the past, one party preceeded my mid-October ascent by one day
and two parties actually made the summit on the same day in September. While that is
only four ascents in two months, by Canadian Rockies standards that makes Mount
Andromache a fairly popular scramble. My traverse of the mountain differs in several
key elements compared to Alan’s description, the largest discrepancy in that I
completed the traverse in 5.5 hours compared to his estimated 8-11 hours. The route
page will go into more detail regarding the traverse. Although not mentioned as a
backcountry ski route, I do see Mount Andromache as a feasible ski objective. There are
also waterfall ice routes that might be established on Andromache’s southwest flanks in
the near future.

Getting There
The Trans-Canada Highway runs from Calgary through Banff and Yoho National Parks on
its way to Vancouver. As you pass through Lake Louise heading westbound, you want to
exit onto the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) towards Jasper. Pull off onto a small
roadside parking area at Hector Creek approximately 20kms up the Icefields Parkway.
This is the same start and approach used for Mount Hector.

Red Tape
You will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter Banff National Park
coming from the east on the Trans-Canada. This pass is good for all four national parks. If
you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an
annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in Banff or Jasper National
Parks, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan
on spending a night in the backcountry versus the conventional campsites. This can be
obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping section below. The huts
are managed by the Alpine Club of Canada versus the Parks. The Alpine Club of Canada
headquarters is located in Canmore, AB, the Banff National Park headquarters is located
in Banff, AB and Yoho National Park headquarters is located in Field, BC. You will drive
through the manned national park kiosks as you enter Banff National Park on the Trans-
Canada. You will drive through a kiosk area again as you gain the Icefields Parkway.
However, it is normally not manned in the winter.

This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person
during the non-hibernation periods. I advise checking with Parks Canada for any area
and/or trail closures.

When to Climb
I climbed Mount Andromache during the middle of October in relatively dry conditions
which allowed me to cut through the rock bands versus circumventing the entire ridge on
ascent. I do believe a ski ascent is possible but have not confirmed such (2006).

Camping
The Rampart Creek Hostel is close by and serves as a good base for the Icefields
Parkway. Rates for dorm style were $23-$27 in 2006. It has 24 beds and reservations are
recommended. (866) 762-4122.

Mountain Conditions
The Banff National Park website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside
of the parks website, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter
travel. Canadian Alpine Accident Reports is also extremely relevant.

Route Descripton
This is a 4200'+/- total ascent day. The approach for Mount Hector is the same approach
used for Mount Andromache. From the small parking area, cross the road to the east and
then cross Hector Creek to the south bank. Pick up a small trail there that leads to a very
old fire road of sorts. Turn left and pick up the trail again on the south side of the creek as
it meanders towards a headwall that contains several waterfalls. The trail crosses the
creek to the north and starts a steep ascent up the left side of these waterfalls. Eventually
it crosses one of the higher falls back to the east. Continue up some loose scree until you
reach a broad upper alpine valley. Little Hector is to your right and Mount Andromache’s
steep walls continue on your left. Head for the expansive col. Take the left fork up valley
versus the right and avoid getting too high too early as the ground is faster and
easier on the feet down low.

Ascend one small headwall on the left that takes you to another elevated valley yet again.
Stay low and head for the actual col between Mount Andromache and Mount Hector. You
have two options. If you are more of a hiker, you can make the col and then turn left on
easy ground to ascend an unnamed peak back west. If you are more of a climber, take a
moraine rib short of the col that leads to an obvious gully/break in the cliffs above
you and to the left. From below, this route might look impenetrable, but in reality it is
quite a joy. To my knowledge very few if anyone before me has ascended the cliff at this
juncture. I built one cairn inside the deep gully giving direction.

After the loose ascent to the base of the walls, continue up the water worn gully on solid
rock with steep walls on your left. Eventually you come to a fork, take the right waterfall.
Start climbing its left shoulder on good rock and then cross to the right below a steep
waterfall (dry or wet) and ascend a low 5th class flake to the next level. Move back left
and continue to the top straight away. This fun scrambling portion drops you right below
the southern flank of an unnamed peak of the same elevation as Mount Andromache.
Ascend this peak on loose ground traversing left every chance you get. Eventually you
need to go ahead and top out on the summit or to the left of the summit on a high 9500’
ridge. Follow this ridge back west towards Mount Andromache. You will lose elevation and
then start to regain it as you approach the Molar Glacier on the north side of Mount
Andromache. Avoid the glacier of course. If traversing in the winter, make sure you stay
climbers left as much as possible. Once you crest the glacier, the small summit block is
less than 100 meters away. There was a summit register in 2006.

The views of the Wapta Icefield and Mount Balfour across the Bow River are spectacular,
not to mention Mount Hector and its glaciated route to the south.

Descent
To make this a complete (and fast) traverse, you can easily descend the northwest ridge.
Start descending the ridge utilizing the glacier intermittingly when and if you deem it safe
travel. After 500’+ loss, you need to circumvent an obstacle to the west. Stay close to the
ridge until you can clearly see a huge talus field bleeding down to your left. This entire
descent is hard on the knees. Few places will allow for much scree glissading in dry
conditions. You will see the talus funnel down through a break in cliffs below you at 8000’.
Follow the funnel down and eventually you will be rewarded with some faster ground. As
you lose elevation, aim left for the road through the trees. This will not require much
bushwhacking. You will be deposited about 10 minutes north of where you parked on the
Icefields Parkway.

Essential Gear
Helmet, Bear Spray, Hiking Poles, Gaiters, Alpine Ax if Snow Conditions, Possibly
Crampons as well. I needed neither in mid October. Heavy Boots to Protect against the
Large Talus on Descent.